Coyote

No i didnt touch the suspension. I just crawled under and watched the rack and pinion while my kid turned the wheel back and forth. It has had a terrible crunching noise in the steering mechanism for a while now and i noticed the inner tie rod jump up when the grind or popping noise occurs. I'll switch that out first and maybe the one cv joint that slipped apart during the trans install.

I dont think it would be a broken spring, although i havnt gotten a chance to look at anything yet. It seems to me that whatever it is could be connected to the shudder it has had since getting it back on the road a week ago after an overhaul of the manual tranny.

I was driving a dirt road last night in my 98 lego and was sliding around a corner when i straightened out my car was going straight but the steering wheel had made a 1/4 turn and stayed there. The rack and pinion boots are gone and it leaks a bit but what could cause the steering wheel to move position without the tires like this and how do i fix it?

The air pressure in the tires was different on a couple tires, fixed that and it helped. The tires are also worn a bit from needing an alignment.

Im gonna check the tires, there looked to be plenty of grease in the boot. It could be too that the car needs an alignment.

I couldnt find the retainer ring and it didnt have ball bearings that i noticed. It looked like a u-joint that slips intothe housing that connects it to the front diff spline. So i just slipped it back together and put the boot back into place. Could low tire pressure cause this also?

Ok, took the old girl for a drive yesterday shifts great clutch works fine but it has developed a bit of a side to side shake when accelerating between 30-55 goes away around 60 mph. One inner cv joint came apart when i had the tranny jacked up to put the engine back in, could it be that causing a shimmy?

All back together and seems to be working propper. Thanks for the help and now i could do it in my sleep. But i dont want to, what a headache.

Alright, again the help from this forum comes to the rescue! Thanks for the help. I bought a new fork, $50 bucks after shipping, but it is back together and the pedal has the same amount of movement as it did before the clutch went out the last time. I'm assuming it is all good. I have about an hour left of hooking up hoses and wires and filliing fluids back up so it should be on the road tomorrow.

The back story is that i was blowing out clutches and found out the bearing in my trans was bad. Replaced that and clutch tob pp flywheel and idler bearing. Now am having issues with the fork. I did not remove the brass knob that the fork pivots on. I also have new springs for the tob.

Cable type. I have two different forks one is cracked the other has been welded on the outside of the fulcrum point.

What could cause the fork to not put enough pressure on the tob against the pressure plate to disengage the clutch? Any ideas?

Easy job. Thanks for all the help. What could cause the tob and fork to not move enough to engage the pp?

Very cool. I'm glad i stumbled onto this forum it has been a huge help. Thanks a ton.

Subaru dude- good call, large rear bearing is shot. Not bad enough to warrant pictures but you called it. Now i just have to find one and figure out how to get it off and back on.

Half way there, just got the rear split from the front. Silver paste is never a good sign.

should the seal be replaced at the same time? its not leaking at the moment.

thanks for the help.

yes, and there is no noticeable noise when it goes. the first two times anyhow went when I was shifting from 4th to 5th. Let out the clutch and there was nothing there rolled to a stop. this last time it went a little slower it was shifting hard one evening while pulling the boat so I thought maybe the sychro's were going out because of it slipping out of fourth for the four months I've had the car. the next morning I drove it around the block without the boat and it shifted fine so I headed to work, pulled into a gas station and noticed it was still pulling in 1st when the clutch was in. Checked the cable adjustment and it was fine so I decided to limp it home shifted fine while moving, came to a stop light and shut the motor off, put it in first gear and started it when th light turned green and got moving a bit and no noise it just quit pulling foreward.

New flywheel when I replaced the clutch the first time about 4000 miles ago. Followed the torque specs and pattern in the book. No abnormal wear on the input shaft,

I thought the same but if the disc is in backwards the springs rub against the flywheel bolts. I triple checked that the first and second time I put in the clutch. I tend to second guess myself when doing somewhat technical work. I showed the disc and pressure plat to a sube mechanic this last time and he thought somehow the throwought bearing was putting too much pressure against the disc and causing fatigue, but I don't see that as a possability since the clutch adjustment felt like it was working proper. If the input shaft bearing failure can cause that kind of damage then I will tear into one and try that unless someone has another thought.

The springs in the disk are actually in place and look fine when the clutch plate goes out. The part that is breaking is the metal plate that the fiber disc is mounted to is breaking out so it's in two pieces, the center hub with the springs and the outer disc with the fiber plates on it.

Thanks, I will read up on that. There was no noise at all, shifted smooth except popping out of fourth when coasting or when letting off the throttle.

When I replaced the clutch, the cable adjustment was all the way to the fully adjusted point. At that adjustment the clutch pedal was in line with the brake pedal and there was a good inch or so of travel at the top of the pedal. when releasing the pedal the clutch would engage almost imediately off the floor. Is there something out of adjustment there?

It does, but I was starting to wonder if that was the issue or not because I picked up another trans that is supposed to be out of good working car with less than 200,000 miles on it and the shaft on this one moves around the same amount. The front bearing is 30 bucks already ordered one but am trying to find the easiest fix before splitting the case on mine.