mrtoyou7747
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Posts posted by mrtoyou7747
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The 98 is an OBDII vehicle does the A/T light still flash with a problem?
Is there a danger in having the transmission "flushed"
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98 OB 225000
I changed the duty solenoid at about 100K. Do they go bad again?
I was told that the reason for the torque bind was that the Duty C solenoid had a design defect that was fixed with subsequent parts. Is this true?
I am remiss in changing the tranny fluid could this be the problem?
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I bought mine on Ebay for about $20 works fine for now over a year and a half
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My 98 OB 223K miles gets 25 Hwy with the AC and it's hot here!
get's 27 Hwy without AC Travel 110 mi per day average speed is 70
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You might want to finish it off with some spray-on clear coat. This is what was recommended as the final step if your just doing it from scratch. (not using the kits)
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I remember they were different and not interchangeable. I've taken the thing out enough times you figure I'd remember. You can always take a meter and see which one is at ground or at 12 VDC (with the key on accessory)
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I used the Turtle Wax kit with mixed results but I redid it last winter with the 3M kit. It was easier and faster recommend the 3M kit.
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I think the green and black that are together are for the outlet the other two are for a lamp that's above the ashtray at least how they are in my 98 OB.
BTW I have the OEM kit that installs two more outlets where the ashtray goes. Bought it on eBay includes the relay too lazy to install it
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Well I did it. I used my torque wrench set to 22 ft/lbs (what I could find for a 12 mm JIS bolt) gave it a push and it came loose.
Replaced it as instructed. Now I'm waiting for the CEL to go off.
Thanks everybody for your help
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Anybody out there know of a good place to mount the sensor should the bolt break?
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Actually I'm the original owner - '98 OB w 182K
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OK
I'm trying to change out the knock sensor. I can't seem to break the bolt loose. I'm afraid to put a lot of beef on it and break the bolt so I've been spraying it with Blaster on a cold and hot engine. The thing won't budge!
Does anybody know who much torque this bolt can take before it breaks? If I knew I'd get the torque wrench out and give it a try
I can't imagine what a PIA this could get to be if I had to easyout the broken remnant
Any ideas?
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Anybody know a good mechanic in the Palm Beach Area? Just relocated from NYC looking for a good and honest shop
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I use a guy in Syosset - Al at Centre Auto on Underhill Rd near the LIRR Station. He fixed my tranny and other problems. (I think they changed their name but I don't remember it)
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I had it. If it goes away with the fuse it is the C solenoid. (Use a 10 Amp fuse)
Change the front and rear diff fluid with synthetic It gave me over a year before I had to bit the big one and change out the solenoid.
Also when I got into the tranny I found some burned fluid on the output shaft near the solenoid. Turns out the lines to the radiator were clogged. check them out. I also installed an external filter from an older legacy. (mount on the inner fender.) No problems since then (80K miles)
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I had the same problem with my '98 (still happens very very occasionally).
Found that the xmission cooling lines to the rad. were fairly well clogged. Cleaned them out and installed an in-line xmission oil filter (from an older model suby) I think the '99 has a spin on filter on the xmission which should be changed out.
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Saw n the paper that SUBY sales last month were up 52% How about that!. I guess a lot of Clunker Dumpers moved into SUBYs
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I found this procedure a couple of years ago on this site or via Google. I tried this and it worked.
"Subaru recommends the following conditions and drive cycle to get the monitors on its vehicles completed in the shortest amount of time:
1. Make sure the fuel tank is between one-quarter and three-quarters full; half a tank is ideal.
2. Start the engine and immediately drive the vehicle for at least 15 minutes at a speed greater than 50 mph. During the warmup, try to avoid sudden acceleration, hard braking and/or lane changes.
3. Drive the vehicle at a steady 55 mph for three more minutes. During this stage of the drive cycle, it's crucial that you keep throttle angle changes to a minimum.
4. Bring the vehicle hack to the shop, hook up the scan tool and look at the status of the readiness monitors. Repeat the drive cycle, if necessary."
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I recharged my '98 two years ago and it still works great!
Make sure you use a gauge to check the pressure as you fill it. As long as it's just a slow leak it the AC would stop when the pressure was lower than required.
As long as there is some positive pressure in the system you shouldn't have to vacuum it out. But if you don't you really need to have dried out.
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Anyone want to comment about Torque Bind? Can be expensive!
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The fuel filter for a Sube OB is under the hood on the drivers side. It's quite easy to change. (See other posts)
There may be a screen on the pickup tube by the fuel pump (Forgot which side but the one with the most wires on the connector). I have never heard of any problem with the screen.
Use a little silicone grease when you reconnect the hoses so you can take them off the next time. If you screw up the hoses make sure you use the correct pressure rated replacement hose.
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I looked around and decided to try DURALAST from Autozone. Put them on both my cars (Sube, Accord)
I'll keep you posted about how they do.
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Here's some Info from Consumers Report latest test - First numbers are cost (small to large size) and the last number is rating. blue check is "best buy". The whole report is on line at their site (Nov 08?)
Valeo 600 Series $9 $15 72 RainX Latitude 
17 21 70 
Anco 31 Series 7 10 66 Michelin RainForce 7 7 65Anco Contour
18 20 65Valeo 900 Series
20 17 64PIAA Super Silicone 18 24 62
Bosch Icon
18 22 60RainX Weatherbeater 6 10 60
Trico Exact Fit 10 13 59
Michelin HydroEdge 10 10 56
Michelin Optimum
16 16 55Anco AeroVantage 9 15 53
Trico Teflon Blade 10 16 52
Trico Innovision
13 14 47 -
Anybody have any experience with Rainx wipers?
Sirus loosing sensitivity in 2013 Legacy
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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My Sirus radio seems to be getting "weaker" in that it seems to cut out more and more often as I drive. Looks like some kind of sensitivity problem with the front end. Always seems to happen in the same spots along the highway. I haev sirus in my other vehicle and it doesn't seem to have this problem.
Is there some kind of adjustment possible?