jheat71

diffs r fine fluid looks good and no metal ............ so can the rear transmission mount cause this kind of vibrations remembering that the vibrations feel like a out of balance washing machine especially when i am going up hill ( really bad ) ? and are the DOJ's the axles sorry i'm not a mechanic ....... thanks again for all the help everyone

sounds good .......... ok axles this week ................ strange thing though when i picked up the car from the mechanic he said he did find something wrong it was the rear transmission mounts were both broke , just wondering if this could also be part of the problem ? thanks again everyone when i take the car in tomorrow i will have the axles replaced as well as the transmission mounts

could a worn out DOJ cause the car to vibrate like an out of balance washer machine ?

ok Ed sounds good what ur saying about the axle ............ is there away a mechanic can visually see if there is a problem ......... i gues what i'm saying is what does he need to look for to see if the axle is bad ........... thanks again for all the input everyone

my mechanic was ready to put in a new axle and then said i didn't need one ........ had another shop put the car on a lift and they checked the the drive train ............ so here are the symptoms the car will vibrate and only vibrate when you press the accelerator ( the vibrations or shaking is in the drviers seat area ) when going up hill the car will shake 10X as bad almost as if you're try to rock the car back and forwards .............. so next on my list is the u joint and trans bushing and maybe wheel bearing ( none of the wheels seems to show any issues no wobbling or signs of being out of balance

i have had the tie rods , axle , drive train , tires changed and balanced , the vibration is more pronounced when the car is going up hill and yes when u speed up the vibration increases but again when u go up hill it feels as if the car is going to shake apart ............. like something is out of balance bad

not the axle or drivetrain ................ i'm lost have had everything i could think of almost ready to call car talk any other suggestion?

no i have not tried the AWD fuse ........... should i remove it ? not sure about all this ............ what i do know is that the vibrations are at there worse when i gun the accelerator and a lot less when i slowly accelerate ( but can still feel it ) and the vibrations is coming from the front end ............. very baffling, i have been told by the mechanic maybe drive train , torque converter , transmission , axel , or transfer case ............. not wanting to replace all of this if i don't have to .................... ok everyone what should i check 1st second and so on ...... again i appreciate all the help

thanks Ed i will take it to my mechanic on monday hopefully it is the DOJ otherwise i am told it may cost a couple of grand to fix ... will let you know the out come CHEERS all for the help ....... will keep you posted

ok i have had the tire rotated balanced and checked for splits all that is ok. The mechanic did say that there was a little warp on the driver side front axle but he said that should not cause this bad of a vibration ....... now that being said i just remembered back in may we pulled a code from the car ( check engine light came on ) and it was for a torque converter locking up could all this be related ?????

thanks but had those checked as well hardly any play and no tears .... what do u think about the torque converter being the problem ???? could this cause the problem ?

Ok so my girl has a 2000 2.5l outback 239,000 + miles , about a week ago the car started to vibrate while accelerating . The harder you push on the accelerator the worse the vibrations( although when u let off the accelerator the vibrations go away ) , feels almost as if a tire is split but had them checked out, balance is ok to . A local mechanic thinks it maybe the transfer case or torque converter any suggestions on how to diagnose this problem ? ... there are no subrau dealers close

so i just check the trans fluid , not sure if i did it right but when i let the car idle for a couple of minutes and then checked the level (while it was idling ) it barely registered on the stick, so i added a quart and right away i noticed the idle even out to around 800 to 1000 rpms , before the idle was around 1200 to 1500 .......... so i am going to the car set for a few hours and look for a leak ............... could this be causing the issue's i am having??

My girl has a 2000 subaru outback , manufacturers date was 10/99 she is looking for a good honest mechanic in the Meridian Ms ...... the closes dealer is in Jackson Ms and is to far for her to travel too.......... so if anyone know of a good mechanic in my area please let me know thanks everyone this Forum is awesome and been very helpful

thanks tex this helps , a couple more questions when u mention 3 drain and fill cycles , does this mean how many times i should drain and fill the trans an if so what are the intervals for that ......... what is the best tranny fluid to use on the car manufacturers date was 10/99 and does anyone know of a good subaru mechanic in meridian ms ? , the closes dealer is a few hours away

what type of additive would u use on the trans ?

so even if the car does not stall when it is in park or neutral this could be the issue the MAF, is that correct ? if so i will call my mechanic today .

alright Tex went to Autozone and the car stalled just before i go there , they pulled 2 codes P0740 they said torque converter clutch and P1133 manufacture fuel air meter they said that the P1133 code could be causing the other want do u think ? thanks again for all the help so far

No it does not come on .......... so if the CEL is not working would the code be there? or should i wait for the car to stall again ? and if so , will the cars comp reset itself ?, my girl said the mechanic has looked for codes and didn't find any but this was always at least 30 min after the last stall. thanks Tex for all your help so far , i feel as if i am getting somewhere with this problem use to live in Texas myself... great place

the only light that ever comes on is the AT temp light , when the car stalls . Could there be a pending code that is not showing a CEL , is that possible????

do you think the stalling issue could be a bad solenoid in the AT trans ? and if so how do i replace it and how do i know which one to change ?

ok so whats the best way to track down a cracked vacuum hose ?

what about the stalling issue happening about 3-5 times a day , only when i'm coming to stop at a stop sign or light and the idle will go up to about 12-1500 rpms and then drop to 500 and finally stall ( unless i put it in neutral) any ideas

i am only needing to put coolant in evry 2 or 3 months and not a lot at that .......... could this little of coolant loss be causing the stalling issue ... Since i had the automatic idle control valve cleaned it stalled about the same amount of times the first day but only stalled once today and another time i felt it start to stall but then didn't. so maybe the whole assembly i think it called the throttle box maybe needs to be replaced .. what do u think guys ???? thanks again you guys have been a great help

ok here is what i have done , checked for leaks of coolant NONE to be found , had the idle control valve cleaned , and had a compression check to see if we could find a leak nothing , and no check engine light only the ALT temp light comes on ............ any guesses and thanks again for the help ........... the mechanic said maybe the idle control might need to be replaced what do u think