[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

Sorry I've been neglecting my thread. Getting wrapped up in life, you know how it is.

 

Then install the y pipe, first from the 2 springed bolts (I used a tire to hold the pipe)

 

 

Then I got a lift from the jack

 

 

Then we fit him on the hanger like so

 

 

line up the hole with the thread and bolt it on

 

 

then I used some hi temp RTV on the new exhaust gaskets

 

 

then slap it on the head and line everything up

 

 

secure it (I used my jack to support it up VERY VERY carefully so as to not crush the pipe) and bolt it together (18-22 ft/lbs)

 

 

connect the o2 sensor plug

 

 

then the p/s lines go under the intake, around the oil pipe and under the upper radiator hose and bolt it on by the brackets

 

 

 

and connect the lines

 

 

then we do the upper radiator hose, intake hose, clip the charcoal canister in, and put the hose from it into the frame from underneath the car

 

 

then we do the 4wd vacuum hose next to the passengers shock tower

 

 

bolt the fan shroud on the radiator in this position, by 3 bolts

 

 

then you see this, align the fan's more inner holes with the water pump studs (I had a photo with these holes marked on the first post)

 

 

 

it was a real pain to attempt tightening the nuts with a 10mm wrench from the top of the car, worked much better from the bottom.

 

 

then we install the battery, add oil and coolant and we're ready to rumble!

 

As mentioned before, there might be a loud clacking when the engine starts up due to the hydraulic lash adjusters not being pumped up yet, but it goes away. I remember that was pretty horrifying.

 

it would be good to take a timing light to adjust the ignition timing, but I've been a lazy bum about the car lately I made marks to align the distributor before I removed it, so I have a good approximation of proper ignition timing. I'll get around to timing it sooner or later.

 

Sorry again about the delay guys, I'm 99% sure I missed some things, please let me know so I can edit! Thanks guys, I really don't think I could have done this all by myself. She still runs like a dream! No more water out the tail pipe at all! Ultimate Subaru is the best!

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

Hey sorry guys, I've been trying to catch up with schoolwork lately.

 

So then I fit on my belt, I had to unbolt whatever was on top of the a/c compressor from the 2 bolts to get it on

 

this is an old pic I used for reference

(I only have one belt, I don't have a a/c tensioner pulley)

 

 

I made sure to line it up with the alternator pulley

 

 

then I took a wrench like MilesFox does and pried against the alternator bracket to put tension on the alternator, "tight but not too tight"

 

 

tighten the adjusting bolt on the bottom (oops radiator's already on hehe)

 

 

looking fit

 

 

 

Then I hooked on the throttle cable to the throttle body

 

I unhooked the intake boot and hose to have more space

 

unthread the first nut on the cable and put it in the bracket so that there is a nut in front of the bracket and the other behind it.

 

I backed up about 2/3rds on the cable side nut, then tightened the engine side nut down so that the cable was tight on the bracket, for some reason I can't find my pics of this. I'll add them later

 

I pulled the metal piece up against the springs tension and fit the cable into the slot, then aligned the cable with the space in the circular piece, then pushed the metal cylinder in its place

 

 

 

redo the intake boot and hose

 

 

 

Then I installed the radiator, there are two rubber boots on the bottom that it seats into 2 holes in the frame of the car in, make sure it's seated on the holes before fastening it from the top 2 bolts.

 

 

 

Then I plugged in the lower hose to the water pipe

 

 

Then hook up the thermoswitch connector and fan connector (the blue and white connectors)

 

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

I couldn't remember exactly where it went so I put it on there.

no ill effects.

 

Gotcha, that's what I ended up going with.

 

Great news guys, I fed her coolant for some time, and about 20 mins in the noise had already gone away. There's significantly less water coming from the tail pipe. I took my parents to the grocery store on the other side of the island, and she drove beautifully. Success for the time being!

 

Ok, I've been pretty disorganized, so it'll take a while before all the posts come together.

 

Don't be a loser like me and wait until the exhaust is already on to put the engine mount nuts on. since my torque wrench was too big to fit between the nut and the exhaust pipe, I gave them my best approximation of 27-49 ft/lbs

 

 

Install the anti-pitch bar, the larger side of the bar goes to the body side. torque figures are: body side:27-49 ft/lbs, engine side: 33-40 ft/lbs

 

do the heater hoses

 

 

Put the fuel line bracket back on the intake manifold (I now realize it would have been better to put it on along with the intake manifold). The vent line goes in the furthest place on the bracket

 

 

Then hook up the fuel feed, return and vent lines, I had them all labeled

 

 

 

Now put spark wires 2 and 4 over the hill holder (sorry about bad pic, I just wanted to show how the wires could be carried up without running into the hill holder)

 

 

Brake booster vacuum line

 

 

water pipe grounds as we've established, I put one on each water pipe bolt

 

 

SPFI harness connectors

 

 

Distributor connector (it's the lone white connector)

 

 

plug in the hi tension lead (reused pic, plug it in to the coil)

 

 

Alternator/ AC bracket bolt positions

 

 

position the PCV hose over the A/c hose as shown

 

 

flip the alternator/ a/c assembly onto the lower bracket and put on the top intake manifold bolt. swing the alternator up and tighten the upper alternator bolt

 

 

Then get the bolt at the side and the 2 bolts that come up from the bottom

 

 

Then you can swing the alternator back down and temporarily put on the alternator adjusting bolt.

 

 

To be continued!

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

I meant to tell you to expect the clacking...mine lasted about 15 minutes.. wasn't happy to say the least....all's quiet and smooth now...I've read the same with others here...just saw the post about the ground but think you got that figured out and I'd have to look in the car to see what I did...too late..

report back...hope it works out

 

I am so relieved! Thanks! Please do let me know, my buddy says he remembers it went on one of the lower alternator bracket bolts, but I just checked and the ring doesn't fit there.

 

And Tractor Pole, are you sure you aren't thinking about the water pipe ground? I already have one ground from the frame there..

 

Thanks for the help guys!

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

I hooked mine up to the water pipe bracket. worked fine.

 

Ben

 

You are my savior, sir. Thanks:D

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

Let me put it another way, could this be the water pipe ground? Please people? I don't want to drive it without getting this sorted out! I don't want to sound naggy, but this is killing me! Thanks!

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

Also, I ended up hooking up the harness ground wire to an alternator bracket bolt, I didnt know where it was supposed to go. Please let me know if that was ok, I know someone knows on here!

 

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

OK that makes me feel a little better, I'll try warming up and driving when I get back from class. Thanks for the input.

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

Bad times guys, bad times. First start up, and immediately there was a loud, deafening clacking noise, also water was already coming out of the tailpipe. Is this a terrible, terrible sign? sigh..

 

I didn't mention that the machine shop mixed up my hydraulic valve adjusters... could that be it?

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

Just for future reference, it's a lot easier to remove the whole power steering pump with lines attached. There are 3 12mm bolts behind the power steering pulley, you just stick a deep socket through the holes in the pulley and remove the pump and swing the entire assembly off to the side.

 

Thanks, I didn't know that. Hopefully I won't be needing to do anything else anytime soon though

 

I'll have to put off making my full post on today's work, I have a test tomorrow and I've spent all weekend working on my car!

 

I have 2 questions:

 

1. Where is this ground off the harness supposed to hook up to?

 

 

2. After putting the engine mount nuts on, the FSM reads:

 

"Be sure to tighten front rubber cushion mounting bolt in the innermost elliptical hole in the crossmember" I see an elliptical hole, but I see no bolt. Is it important?

 

Expect the finishing touches posted tomorrow!:cool:

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

I only had one dowel pin, I don't know if I mentioned I bought this car from a used car dealer, who got an engine from a junkyard to put in the car because the original one had overheated. But I think there are supposed to be two, each found on either the flywheel housing or transmission

 

 

After a day of angry shaking and jerking, I finally got her on

 

 

I noticed that bumping the breaker on the crank pulley, as opposed to turning it, helped them slide together more quickly

 

There's not as much space in the bay anymore!

 

:

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

My, my, that main shaft alignment is a royal pain in the rump roast, isn't it. I woke up early this morning, and I've been struggling with it all day!!! I've jerked the crank millions of times, but it refuses to close up! I guess it's just one of those things we have to fight through... what a b--

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

Just outta curiosity how does the new port compare to your old one? (as far as the casting or machining looks)

 

Sorry guys, I lost my SD card adapter for my pictures, finally found it today. Here it is, the lip is very small compared to the old one, and much less jagged.

 

 

I got the pump on today

 

unbolt it from the 5 bolts around, give it a tap with a rubber mallet to break the bond, coolant might spill.

 

 

undo the hose from the top clamp and remove the pump

 

clean the mating surface on the block with brake cleaner and a razor blade

 

 

don't be a loser like me and re use the old coolant hose. It's a 1/2" diameter, I bought 5/8 because it really looked like 5/8! But 5/8 is too big and kinks. I'm too anxious to get this over with, and the old hose wasn't leaking before, so I said f-- it.

 

 

 

I hooked up the hose to the new pump, then fit the other end to the coolant pipe and fit the paper gasket in between the pump and the block. There was no torque spec to be found in the FSM, and none of my resources had it, so it must be pretty negligible, just "tight enough?" I just cranked the bolts on in a star pattern with a 3/8 drive ratchet to "1-finger strength," which is like 7-9 ft/lbs. Good enough? I'll find out soon enough KABLOOOSH

 

 

 

water pipe back on

 

 

pulley and alternator bracket back on

 

 

other stuff back on

 

 

chock the flywheel (pretty neat this time)

 

 

remove crank pulley, apply thread locker, and I gave the sucker 75 ft/lbs

 

 

I found some more of what looks like RTV (grey stuff) around the place behind the splined portion of the shaft here. I probably won't do anything about it, but is that normal?

 

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

now, you did that on purpose

 

carry on

 

looking forward to the post with that thing purring

 

hehehe you got me. I can't wait either, hopefully by the end of this week..?

 

My water pump came in today! Got it for 25 bucks shipped on ebay!

 

 

 

 

 

The gasket it came with looks questionable in quality.. but the instructions say to install it without fluid packing, so I think I'll stick to that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and I've wound up with quite a few extra gaskets and o rings in my set... my guess is that they are mostly for the carbureted models, and not for my SPFI. Oh well!

 

 

 

Looking forward to throwing the pump on tomorrow!

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

I had new tensioners, so I unbolted them and took them off the springs

 

Driver's

 

 

 

Passenger's

 

 

 

Old vs New

 

 

The old ones made a considerable amount of noise and spun very freely. The new ones are much quieter and tighter.

 

I installed them in their slackened positions, then I began to fit the driver's side belt on (the longer one)

 

I slipped it under the tensioner, then over the crank pulley to the crank sprocket, then under the oil pump pulley, then under the idler pulley, then fit it onto the cam sprocket from underneath. Belt tension is important underneath the cam pulley for this belt.

 

 

I didn't have a spanner, and I just put firm counterclockwise pressure with my hand and pushed the tensioner down a bit while my dad tightened the tensioner bolts (14 ft/lbs). Tighten the pivoting bolt on the tensioner last.

 

This part is important: crank the crank pulley clockwise a full 360 degrees, so that the driver's cam pulley is pointing down like this:

 

 

 

the center timing mark should be aligned with the flywheel housing pointer, as it was before

 

The short belt is easy, just slip it over the crank sprocket and fit it to the top of the cam pulley, keeping tension on the top portion of the belt. I got the pops to tighten like before, I applied counterclockwise pressure and pushed up on the tensioner.

 

right now we look like this:

 

driver's

 

 

passengers:

 

 

flywheel

 

 

I torqued down my cam pulley bolts (7 ft/lbs) and oil pump pulley nut (12 ft/lbs) at this point

 

 

Then I put my valve covers back on. looking more like an engine now!

 

 

Then the distributor went on. Had to fiddle with this for a while.

 

Crank the crank pulley clockwise until the pointer of the flywheel housing is aligned with "0." here's the FSM:

 

 

Align the indentation with the bump on the distributor

 

 

Then it goes right in. I didn't just slam it in there like a barbarian though, it turns when it meets with the cam gear, so it kept sliding back.

 

I had the marks perfectly aligned, and this is what I got the first time. Not what we want!

 

 

This is what we want

 

 

The rotor should be pointing at the #1 spark plug position when it is all the way in. I slid it in a bit off clockwise so that it would fall into the right position, if that makes sense. Fiddling will get you there sooner or later.

 

Then put the mounting bolts back in, and the timing is all done for now. I might take my timing light to it when it's all together again.

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

I got the guy with the Paraut pump to end his auction, and it's shipping tomorrow! Yes!

 

I got my cam cases on

 

I positioned the both cams so that upon installation the cam pins would point up like so

 

 

at first I used grease to hold the rocker arms on

 

 

then I realized I needed to reposition the engine because the tire was in the way:-p

 

 

Then the engine was tilted too much and the grease wouldnt hold so I used zipties

 

 

Make sure the grooves for sealant in the cam case are clean! I had to scrape the RTV out at the last minute because it slipped my mind

 

 

I used Permatex anaerobic gasket maker, jabbed the tube with scissors and it squeezed oh so slowly... I didn't do the greatest job of getting a single good bead on there.. but this anaerobic stuff is top-shelf shizzle anyways right?

 

EDIT: also note the cam case o ring in the bottom right of the cam case in the pic. put that on with a bit of motor oil

 

 

Fit it on the head, install bolts loosely and snip and pull all the zipties

 

 

 

 

give all the bolts 14 ft/lbs, wipe the excess gunk off, do the other side

 

 

 

 

Then I sprayed some copper sealant on my intake manifold gaskets and positioned it on, only to find that one of the bolts couldn't get through the manifold.. it was blocked by a piece of rust that I had to knock through with an old bolt... the manifold shedded all kinds of rust all over the coppered gasket, so I just sprayed more on, to the point where I got a bit of orange peel! I know that's probably more than I was supposed to put on, but...

 

 

 

then I oiled the threads of the bolts and torqued them with 16 ft./lbs

 

also, now would be a good time to install the fuel line bracket onto the manifold

 

 

 

then I tightened the plug for the EGR pipe with 27 ft/lbs

 

 

 

 

 

 

On to the timing belts

 

 

align the flywheel's center timing mark (marked in orange) to the pointer on the flywheel housing

 

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

dude, your pics are nothing short of spectacular..seriously...

It's obvious it's the water pump port, I'm just not yet familiar enough to pick up on the issue you wanted to point out....nothing to do with your pic's quality....I replaced my pump simply because I was there...well, that and 161,000 miles..

yes, def go for the new pump....how many miles on that engine anyway? sorry if I missed that in an earlier post..

keep pluggn away

 

Haha such flattery. Thank you friend. I am not completely sure, but the guy I bought it off said there were ~120k miles on the engine he got from the junkyard, the original one had overheated.

 

Yeah, I think I will change the pump, it's just waiting for the part that's the hardest part really, I wish I'd have ordered one in the first place, but now there's a really cheap NOS Paraut pump on ebay that I'll have to wait 6 days just to bid on..

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

Yeah, it doesn't look very hard at all.. maybe I'll just go ahead and order it... I hate having to wait for parts to come in though. I don't see any metal bits, I thought the same thing when I saw it, but I guess they're lost now. Sucks...

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

That inner lip of the water pump, where the water pipe meets it, is cracked. Sorry the photos are so bad.

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

the cracking between the valves was always explained as commonplace to me. though eventually it can crack too deep or crack through the valve seat and cause problems.

 

My old XT turbo finally died from them, the crack hit a water jacket and was letting coolant into the exhaust. the mechanic I have always gone too says that they pretty much all have them, just remember that they can go too deep and cause problems so watch your heat.

 

Thanks, I'll keep my eye on it.

 

Today, I saw this (water pump where water pipe goes in):

 

 

My God, I don't think I did that.. how bad is this? Will it leak? I really hope I don't need a new water pump!

 

 

 

Today I fetched my cam case o rings and intake manifold bolts

 

 

this is the block, clean as I could get it with a razor blade

 

 

 

fit the head gasket on, lubed the bolts a bit

 

 

here's the torquing diagram from the FSM

 

 

torquing should be done in 3 steps,

1st: torque all of them to 22 ft/lbs

2nd: torque to 43 ft/lbs

3rd: torque to 47 ft/lbs

I should also mention, I'm using those Felpro Permatorque gaskets.

 

 

arrrgghhhh! Maybe I should slap some RTV in there?

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

That's what...- nevermind =P

 

Grease should be fine, I've heard of people using all sorts of stuff, vasoline, etc. If it concerns you at all, change your oil after a couple hundred miles.

 

Seals look good.

 

+1 above; no sense in rushing. Do it right the first time. "The lazy man works twice" Spanish Proverb. haha

 

LOL speaking of vasoline...

 

yeah, I was gonna say your seals look good too but figured someone with a gazzillion more posts than I should chime in on that...

I used your pics as a reference when asking myself..."wtf IS this hose I'm reattaching" ..

good work...happy fourth..

 

Great to know that this post is of service to people here! Thanks, my fourth was pretty productive!

 

I got lazy about posting the past few days, besides it's been slow, with some cleaning, brushing, scraping in between some fun, easy jobs.

 

I took Ivans Imports advice

 

 

while you have cam caiers apart take the plunger that has the sping behind it and stretch the sping about a 1/4 to increse the oil preshure its in the top part of cam caier is a 14 mm bolt that holds the oil tube on do thiss to both sides

 

Remove the bolt holding the oil pipe, underneath is the spring. I observed that there was no tension in the spring, as the bolt easily threaded back on with no resistance from the spring.

 

 

so I stretched it till it was this long, and put it back in, the bolt should be torqued to 17-20 ft/lbs

 

 

scrubbed the valve covers, cleaned off the RTV (whoever worked on it before was seriously in love with RTV and used it on everything, I know RTV should not be applied to the valve cover gaskets), and let the gaskets groove in their grooves.

 

 

 

the OEM NOK cam seals looked great, no sign of leaks, so I decided not to touch them. Also, those little nubs on the cam face are slippery little things.

 

 

but I did replace the o-ring

 

 

 

 

The heads, resurfaced and looking great! The machine shop I took them to was great, the guy I talked to told me he had owned and autocrossed an xt, and told me that the cracking between the valve holes(?) on the heads eventually led to leaking.. but maybe because he was autocrossing it. I told him I would to try resurfacing anyway.

 

 

But they were awesome, they removed my broken stud and pulled the valve lash adjusters that I had been struggling with forever, took out all my old valve stem oil seals, and even stamped a couple of "D's' in my drivers side head for me! Great people.

 

I installed my oil seals, first exhaust (outer edges) then intake (inner) with a 12mm socket and a wooden hammer

 

 

 

Then I put the valves and springs back on the head, in their appropriate spots

 

slide valve into valve guide, then push it up through the oil seal

 

 

 

put the springs and retainers back on

 

 

easy peasy

 

 

put the valve lash adjusters back in the head, the ones that can be pushed down easily should be submerged in oil and pumped a few times before installation.

 

 

don't forget to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets

 

 

and I had a water pipe o-ring too.

 

 

 

 

Still waiting on cam case o-rings and new intake manifold bolts..

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

Then the front crank seal was leaking, so I picked it out

 

 

 

Drove the new, NOK seal in with a 12 mm deep socket just like MilesFox in his "The Art of Subaru Maintenance" series

 

 

and again, **is this good enough?**

 

 

And wouldn't it be good logic that installing the crank pulley would be forcible enough to seat the seal anyways (rubs chin)?

 

Please, if this is unacceptable let me know, and I will immediately correct anything. I work really slow, I make sure to be very deliberate in my work, and I really want to do this right. I appreciate everyone's input here, thanks so much! :D:D

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

Today, I resealed my oil pump, and replaced my front crank seal.

 

Questions for those who don't like reading my looong posts:

 

This is how I installed my seals, good? Not seated enough? I have no experience with driving seals in, and I want to know if I haven't done a good job...

 

Oil pump:

 

 

 

Front crankshaft seal:

 

 

 

 

also, I used grease to hold the mickey mouse seal onto the pump surface, it should just melt into the oil, right? I noticed the pump pulley spun with more drag, most likely because of the excess grease pressed into the rotor...but a little grease never hurt anything right?

 

 

Ok, on to the job

 

The seals: oil pump seal, oil pump o-ring, oil pump shaft seal

 

 

loosen the nut holding the pulley on, preferably it would have been done with the belts on, but I just wrapped a portion of the belt onto the pulley to hold it still while I broke the nut with a 12 mm wrench.

 

I removed these 5 10 mm bolts holding the oil pump onto the block. They have washers.

 

 

 

 

Then she slides right off. You can also see the inner rotor in the block in this photo, I left it in, but it comes out.

 

 

 

I took off the oil filter at this point, but it doesn't have to come off

 

The seals were actually surprisingly supple, but very flattened

 

 

Take off the nut holding the pulley on and slide the pulley off the rotor/shaft assembly. Mine took some persuading with a prybar, but it came off in the end. Now we can see the shaft seal.

 

 

Slide the shaft out the rear

 

 

pick out the old shaft seal, clean up the surface a bit

 

 

and I used a wooden mallet and my 27mm socket flipped upside down to install the seal

 

 

I didn't want to beat it too hard, but as you can see, the top sits a bit out of the lip. **Is this good enough?**

 

 

Then the pulley and shaft went back on to the pump assy. There is a flat spot that needs to be aligned on the shaft and pulley.

"Hey friends! Great to see you again!"

 

 

Then I replaced the o-ring and mickey mouse gasket. I put grease on the mickey seal to hold it on, because it didn't fit perfectly and kept falling out...***is this a problem? I actually used quite a bit.***

 

 

grease made alignment much easier, and I just bolted the pump right back on.

 

 

Now I need an oil filter.

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

Yeah... I just feel jittery about doing something so important myself... and I don't have any glass... should be getting them back on Monday. In the meantime, I'll be doing other things, and I'll be sure to post!

[Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob]

Oh. That's how its supposed to look. Wow. Mine look terrible then haha. Thanks.. I think I'll slink over to the machine shop...