Noclue

I tried that except I can't really pump the pedal... it just flops back and forth so I "pumped" it aboutI 20 timesand and I checked to see if anything was leaking but nothing... still just as full as it was when I filled it... the clutch does not engage at all and the pedal keeps flopping...

I checked the master cylinder and it is empty... no fluid at all any way I can tell whether it is the master or slave?

I have a 2000 outback with the 5 speed transmission... last time I drove it I had no problems... it sat for about 2 days without being driven and my wife went out to start it this morning and she pushed in the clutch and it just stayed down... won't go into gear or anything just grinds... the clutch pedal just sticks to the floor and it takes some effort to pull it back up but then it pops right out... sometimes when driving we noticed that the clutch pedal would stick at the end of the friction point and you would have to tap it from underneath to get it to fully extend (I don't know if this is even relevant I just wanted to give as much info as possible...) the clutch was replaced about 2 years ago... I don't know if this would have anything to do with it but it has been in the single digits outside for the last couple days... any help would be appreciated...

Yeah pretty ridiculous huh? So I ended up getting it towed to another shop who did the job for much less... definitely was the injectors... she is running like a champ now and I haven't had any issues yet...

Thank you for the info! So by those links it looks pretty simple to replace them... they already have the old injectors out... should I just see about buying some myself and finishing the job?

Only problem is I am in a bit of a bind... I have already done plugs, wires and checked the coil but nothing... I know the injectors are bad at least one for sure because when they were "diagnosing" it they broke it in half... the one they broke wasn't the one I had been having problems with but they just said it was cracked already so they won't take responsibility for it... I called around and found a place that will do it for about 150 cheaper... the bind I'm in is it is our only vehicle so I need to get it back up and running asap... its also past due for an emissions test... the cheapest injectors I have found that I can get soon are $130 a piece... they already have the injectors out ... is it pretty easy to put the new injectors in? I somewhat know what I am doing and I am good with my hands and at following direction so if its not too much I'm sure I could do it myself... most places I have talked to it sounds like they are charging about 170 in labor...

how much does the whole fuel rail usually cost? and would you just recommend replacing both then?

I took my outback in with misfire codes... they told me I have one bad injector and one cracked one both on the passenger side... they said they are the most expensive injectors they have ever seen and its gonna be about $670 (I am already into them $85 for diagnostic fees) to replace both... I am concerned because I told them to order the injectors and they are gonna do it tomorrow...

I have awith 2000 Subaru outback with about 155k miles. Awhile back my check engine light came on so I took it to autozone and they said it was a cylinder 3 misfire and it was probably a clogged injector. I put some seafoam in and the code eventually cleared and it was running fine. I drove it about another 1000 miles and got in it one day and noticed it was running rough and the CEL came back on. I took it back to autozone and they said the same thing... the light started blinking which I found out is an active misfire... I replaced the plugs and wires and put in a new coil bit it was running the same so I put the old one back in... the car is running worse every day and I noticed the other day when I shift or push the clutch in to stop the Rpm goes down almost to 0 until I completely stop then it goes back up to about 6 or 7 hundred. It idles rough and is a little low on power. I asked the dealer I bought it from if they changed the timing belt and they said it looked like it had been replaced at about 100k. There was some oil on the plugs in cylinder 3 & 4 (I think... its the two in the back) but it wasnt on the spark part only the porcelain. Any help would be greatly appreciated.