smartin

Sorry this update took so long. When I finally got to it I had some one hold the latch release up while I played with the hood. Had to actually pry up slightly with a screw driver but it popped up. All gunked up and just stuck. cleaned lubed now seems to be working fine.Thanks to every one that commented. if that cable had broken or come unhooked this would have been a night mare.

I won't have time to really get to it until sat. Not urgent yet. Thanks hoping it's a latch tab issue thanks.

Inner fender sounds ugly. Do you think the latch bolts can be removed through the grill?

I haven't had time to get into it yet but it looks tricky. If the problem is at the pull lever it will be easy if it is any where else ouch. If you look at the picture this is a hood latch from a 2006 outback I am willing to bet they are basically the same. The problem is the cable protector on the right side. It prevents reaching in through the grill and just pulling the cable outback hood latch _.html

The hood isn't releasing when I pull the lever. How do I release the hood manually. Thanks

Just had to change the clutch and coil. 2008 outback this fixed the problem.

I own gauges I recharged last season. I haven't checked because when the temp is below around 72-74 the ac runs great very cold no shutdown. But I will check

It seems to be totally heat generated. But I will check. If the relay was dropping out would the clutch still attempt to engage??

Any ones thoughts on this issue welcome. When the temp is below about 72 the ac works great. From about 72 to 82 it will run for 10 to 15 min. and crap out. Over about 82 it is doubtful it runs at all. I checked the gap and it was at top of specs. removed one shim now right in spec. same issues. removed other shim no gap same problem. The clutch attempts to engage spins a little and stops over and over. This leads me to believe the electromagnetic coil is shot and when it gets hot doesn't have the power to engage the clutch?? I found and bought a whole new clutch assembly. The clutch plate comes right off after that not sure. read some are pressed on others slide right off. In the event it is pressed should I be able to use my gear puller tools to remove it?? Also when putting it back on does it help to heat the coil and freeze the shaft. Any one experience's would be welcome thanks.

Would like to hear any ones thoughts on this issue. When the temp. is under about 72 the ac works great. From about 72 to 82 it will run maybe 10 to 15 min. and then shut down. Over about 82 it may or may not run at all. I checked the clutch gap and it was a little over the recommended max. I took off the clutch and removed one of the shims this put the gap right in spec. Had the same issues, removed the other shim same problem. When it isn't working the clutch spins a little and stops over and over it is trying to engage. I now believe the coil is shot and when it gets hot it loses the strength to engage the clutch. I was able to find and buy a new clutch mechanism in it's entirety. I have no problem removing the clutch plate after that I'm not sure. I have read some clutches are pressed on some will come right off. In the event it is pessed I have assorted bearing pullers should I be able to use these?? Any ones experience with this please respond. Also when replacing it would heating up the coil and cooling the shaft help it to slip on easier? Thanks

I can tell you from my experience that this is probably related to the clutch or electromagnetic coil that engages it. I had this issue with my last 04 forester and I was able to adjust the clutch gap and worked. not this time on my 2008 outback. It is a heat issue. I'm going to start a new thread.

Who ever said there isn't life after death. After three days I started up the car and sure enough the radio came back to life.

Today as I came off the expressway there were some bad pot holes I hit one of them and the radio of my 2008 Outback went off. Seemed like it had to be hitting the pothole that was the cause. The only thing I have checked so far was the fuse. It was good. I would welcome any ones thoughts on how to proceed trying to figure out where the problem lies. Thanks

Seems as the oil pressure switch was the culprit. No more leak.

Thanks makes me feel a little more confident that was what was happening as it appeared the oil was coming from the top of the unit.

Changed out the unit today will have to see if that was it. Looking at how it was covered in oil I don't see where else it could have been coming from. Fingers crossed. I used a 15/16" deep socket worked perfectly.

What size socket needed??

2008 Outback 3000 mi. since last oil change no oil added I will degrease the whole area and see if I can get a better idea of where it is coming from. So exactly what part is that I am looking at? just below and to the left of the blue plastic unit? Seems like it should be easy enough to remove. If not from the switch where else right in that area could oil be leaking from?

I noticed a slight oil smell on further observation I see oil at what I believe is the oil pressure sending unit? the oil is on the lower part of the unit and to the left in the pic. and below there was a small puddle of oil. Since I've always known the oil from any leak to run mostly down never up and the unit has got oil on it I'm guessing it's the unit. Any one have any thoughts on this? Replace switch? remove and tape? Thanks Not sure why the pics turned sideways

I checked the gap .027 so I removed the spacer and now I have no gap. Put the ac on and same clutch motion as in the video. Does that indicate the clutch coil is shot?? Thanks

I checked the gap .027 so I removed the spacer and now I have no gap. Put the ac on and same clutch motion as in the video. Does that indicate the clutch coil is shot?? Thanks

When I had the front of the clutch off there was one spacer washer in there should I remove it and replace the clutch??

AC acting up strangely! When the temperature is approx. 75 to 80 the clutch kicks in and the ac works fine. Checked high and low press. all within specs. If the temp is above that range the clutch does what the video shows it tries to go but sputters and starts and stops continually. In the instance where it runs fine that only lasts for a certain amount of time 7 to 15 min before it starts sputtering. which seems to be temperature related the hotter it is the less amount of time in keeps running. To me it seems that it is a problem with the clutch itself. I would like to be more confident about this before changing it. Any thing else to cause this same issue and any way to check. Thanks Link to video https://vault.myvzw.com/webcs/app/share/invite/haqXv6YSuC