Out West

Thank You

I wont to replace the Coil igniter and coil pack on my 1997 Legacy Outback 2.5L automatic. I can not find the location of the Ignitor/starting module . Have not been able to find any info online either can one of you folks tell me were its location is on my vehicle?

Thank you John,gonna hit the pick&pull yard for a used coil pack.

70mph on the freeway when the engine started to missfire, exited and drove at 35 mph 2 miles home. motor starts and idles,when i put the code reader on i got PO301 and PO302. what would cause a missfire like that? faulty coil pack, something going to ground?

Thanks,good point Gloyale. After a closer look the darker bolts are coated so i'm going to attache them at the diff. flange.

Got the Transmission in and it works great,I have received the bolts from the dealer to install the drive shaft section from the center bearing back,I did not remove the bolts and am not sure witch bolt goes were? There are 2 sets of 4 bolts,the set of darker bolts has a #6 on the head. The polished bolts have a #6 with a dot. My question is were do the set of dark bolts with #6 go,Center carrier or rear diff flange? Thanks for your time.

Thank you GrossGary,should i use Subaru HD ATF or another brand? and is there a article here regarding adjustment of the shift selector linkage/cable?

OK,thanks for the input.

Should i replace the front seal and axle seals?

Being installed in a 1997 Legacy Outback 2.5L.The numbers match TZ102Z2CBA-DT,there are a few items to swap like the cross member and a piece of wiring section. I have installed a few auto trans and am aware of the issues involved with the torque converter. the donor trans has 200K miles,my car about the same,my concern is should i remove the pan and install new filters?

I took the damaged trans out a few months ago and just picked one up for $506.00 delivered. We unloaded it and it looks fine,now i'm going to swap parts over and get ready to install. What steps should i take before installing?

Drained the dif. and found metal shavings,i'm going to remove the trans today.The TC to flex plate bolts were tight, i need to do the bell housing and cross-member now. What do you folks think of fab'ing a strut tower cross-bar to support the weight of the motor before i separate the two?

Found the link on Torque Bind, safe to say its damaged. Thanks for your help.

grossgary, i'm not sure what "torque bind" means? I bought the car assuming i needed to replace the transmission, the front left axle was locking the popping, rolling the doing the same. I thought it was the CV axle,removed it and found the same locking and popping at the drive shaft. Oh yeah, the trans oil looks red'ish as it should.

I got the CV axle out and found the issue to be the transmission. Its popping and locking up. I assume its the dif. or hypoid gear/drive pinion ? So i'm prepping the trans for removal, are there any tips/advice you folks have? I do have a copy of the factory manual.

Hello, I am having trouble removing the left front 32mm axle nut on my 1997 Subaru Outback. I have try'ed a impact gun with 250ft.lbs. torq, a breaker bar, soaked in break free.I waked it a few times with a cold chisel and stop'ed before i deformed the nut. None of this has worked, would it ruin the wheel bearing if i use heat?