DOHCEJ22E
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Posts posted by DOHCEJ22E
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Nice build, thanks for sharing. I will say that currently I like the look of your buddy's wagon .
Thank you, and you're welcome. He just got a '99 Outback, so the plan is to put the 22D+T powertrain in his current '98 L into it while an EJ225 hybrid is built for the L.
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Gotcha. Maybe certain conditions amplify it. I had the FWD fuse in my automatic recently on a 65 mph long distance drive and got 28.5 which is really high for an automatic XT6. Previously I've never seen any difference, as have few others. You also have quite a different motor so that might change things too.
Looks like about 150 hp - how does that compare to what a stock EJ22 would show on that same test/set up?
Did you use EJ20 heads for compression, flow, or both?
That's a pretty good estimate! She put down 153awhp on a dyno a stock EJ22E has put 87awhp on.
I used the EJ20D heads because for compression, flow, and rarity, although it is more than safe to say that EJ25D heads have this same potential, considering they have the same chambers and the compression ratio will also be 10.6:1 with those heads. They just need to have the ports opened up (either port matching or funnel porting) and slightly hotter intake cams.
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nice work on the vehicle. if you want this to remain a "build thread" you might want to post specific questions/topics about your current issue in another thread.
subaru rear diff failure is exceptionally rare. most people who replace a rear diff end up still having the same issue, so investigate closely.
AWD vehicles still have all the additional weight of the transmission, driveshaft, carrier assembly, rear diff, rear cross member, rear axles and hubs and rotational drag as well, none of that disappears with a fuse so the fuse typically doesn't improve fuel mileage. more likely to be caused by an artifact of your current mechanical issue, change in driving habits (which often occurs when interested people install a fuse or have mechanical issues/concerns), or wanting better gas mileage "suspicion often creates what is suspects".
Thank you. As for the rear diff, I changed the fluid again and all is now well. Drag was surprisingly minimal
As for the mpg rating, I drive at the same speed I usually do & the scan tool I use picked up a change in mpg.
There is more when the FWD switch is on. Nothing too significant, but it is there.
The AWD may be disabled, but the torque produced by the front wheels is a bit higher, which makes high speed pulling much easier.
I will have to log it next time, although there IS a chance the ECU will catch onto this and change again.
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Project Esperanza Log:
The rear end began to pull yesterday, and so I performed the "dime" test, which yielded the rear tires being low in depth and tread. To prevent center differential damage, a 10a fuse was put into the FWD fuse slot and now, I am driving around in FWD mode until I can get new rear tires with my check this Friday.
However, though the strain was greatly lessened, I still felt a smidge of pull and inspected the rear diff to find that it is slowly leaking at the drain plug. I will inspect further in the morning to see what the issue is. There is no wheel bearing damage or play, but the right side wheel provides significant resistance compared to the left.
I will also note that in FWD mode, the power delivery is exceptional, and I have even lesser difficulty at all getting up to high speed. 90mph comes up surprisingly and fuel economy is better +3mpg city and +2mpg hwy. I will likely convert the FWD fuse into a toggle switch as I have done so many others to have that extra modicum of control.
The plan next is to create an advanced intake of some kind to bring even more air in on the low after I solve the rear differential issue, and following that will be as many fuel mods as I can pull off to get this engine at it's maximum on the stock ECU before I eventually get a good piggyback for tuning. -
Update:The Accel coil continues to do well. For the money, it seems to be an even better bargain than the MSD 8239, but there is a catch and I will find it.Overall feel of the car is balanced and I am certain that I would give any stock 3rd gen Legacy with an EZ30D a great challenge above 3500rpm.The project shall continue, as my next move will be to update the intake into something a hell of a lot better. I have reached the limit of the intake pipe when it comes to turbulence.I will also beef up the fuel system a bit to bring in fuel where it is needed so I won't run that lean on the top.
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Comparison of the MSD 8239 to the Accel super SRT-4 coil.
Accel coil installed.
If there are any questions, I will be glad to answer them.
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Upgraded to WRX Momo wheel and Outback SUS Safari interior.
The day of the ECS Performance dyno testing 10/18/2017.
On the rollers...
Dyno graphs.
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On that same day.
22D alive and well.
Sometime after.
10k milestone of ownership, 8k miles after the 22D installation.
Closer to the present.
The name on the plaque is my instagram name.
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My exhaust setup:UEL's w/2.5in catback to unknown muffler.
My buddy's 22D-T powered Legacy wagon.
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22D is almost ready.
Secondary power steering bracket doesn't line up with the bolt hole with the 257 crosspipe, so I removed it. everything now fits perfectly.Skip a little past the installation as I lost those pics permanently. The EJ22D is installed and pulling hard for an EJ22. At this point, I had not discovered the power level and so was just enjoying the engine for what it is. The Legacy itself had gone through a few changes.
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New bolts and 257 coolant crosspipe installed.
22D almost ready.
Longitudinal.
STi oil pan installation.
Edging so closer...
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Detailed EJ205 oil pump with new filter installed and new EJ257 tensioner bracket.
Grimmspeed intake manifold spacers, 2006 Legacy thermostat, and 1lbs VMS lightweight crank pulley.
Showcase of EJ20D intake port size.
EJ20D head internal layout is shim over, if anyone was wondering.
Str8 pin meets 222 head gasket.
EJ20 turbo water pump vs N/A 2006 Legacy water pump.
Passenger side head and STi roller kit installed and torqued down.
Driver side of the block awaiting head.
Head installed and belt mock.
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If anyone wanted to know, some Mini Cooper Supercharged ignition coils will also work as viable performance upgrades, as they are 36kv and similar to the MSD 8239.
Radio and trim upgrade.
A good friend's Legacy.
More straightening up the 222 block.
Came home with a goodie (black Outback hood).
222 block cleaned up some more with straight pins removed.
More goodies.
Stock baffle installed.
Moroso oil pickup installed.
Magnetic oil drain plug.
"Str8" pinning for increased head gasket and head security when torqued.
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A trip to the boneyard yields this nice EJ222 block for about $140.
Proceeded to clean up a bit.
EJ222 crank gear and stuck sensor.
Water pump removed.
Broken crank gear sensor.
More cleaning.
Ej222 oil pump removal.
MSD 8239 coil on and working fine.
Another thing that must be discussed is that the 85 ECU I had earlier was from a '99 Outback. It did not work with me airbag and evap system, and so while it will plug right in and run, it will always throw a check engine light. The 9P ECU is what came in the car and is the prime reason why the manufacturer called for 91+ octane. It sucked at adapting for sure, which is why it was replaced. The 7X was the best ECU as it adapted well and communicated with everything. I am still running it now.
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Enjoying her a little more while I could, but around this time, the original 25D began to die.
A 97 Legacy Outback Limited is approached for it's ECU (7X), which later proves to be an awesome instrument.
Also approached a 420A Eclipse and found a goodie...
What I left the boneyard with that day...
Shots of a random Legacy GT and my LSi.
She passed emissions.
Got some LED's for the license plate lights.
Final snowstorm that the 25D propelled me through before it died.
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Not all was well at first. With a dying 25D and long work hours, I had little time to come up with a plan, but it worked out well. Still, we shall start from the beginning with the 1996 Subaru Legacy LSi that I had purchased last year for $500.
The first mod, a 420A ignition coil, was done. spiced things up some from the diamond coil.
Also added a radio when there was none.
In my quest to improve the car, I aimed at the grille, primarily out of boredom.
The completion of the Loyale style grille.
- - - Updated - - -Sitting sometime during the early winter.
Addition of the Big 3.
The snow is gone and she finally got plates.
ECU hunting and testing.
Ran a stock L 2.2 ECU for a bit, as it proved to be the best for running and conserving 87 octane.
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As I have lost my original threads thanks to Photobucket's nonsense, we will start anew. I introduce my 1996 Subaru Legacy LSi, which I have for over a year now. The road to glory has been a good one so far and time will reveal more greatness for this car.Here is what was done to my car during the high compression EJ22D project in the past year:Engine:EJ20D heads, valves, and valve springs (1997).EJ25D big plenum manifold (1996 LSi stock).EJ25D wiring harness (1996 LSi stock).EJ253 water pump (2006).EJ222 block and head gaskets.EJ205 oil pump (detailed).EJ257 coolant crosspipe and sensor.EJ257 timing assembly and extra roller.EJ257 oil pan.EJ257 Moroso oil pickup.Gates blue teflon belt (DO NOT BUY THESE).Tomei timing belt guide.VMS lightweight crank pulley (1lbs).Grimmspeed intake manifold spacers w/bolts.All new seals and bolts.Self milled heads via sanding.Lightly ground intake ports.Refreshened and seated valves.4 extra straight pins for head gasket and head security (Str8 mod).Custom head bolt torque sequence (2lbs tighter on the last 3 rules).1st generation Subaru Legacy engine cover and brackets.EGR disable.Ignition:Started with Dodge 420A coil, then upgraded to MSD 8239, then further up to the Accel super coil for the SRT-4.Body:1999 Outback SUS bumper covers, front bumper brace, and grille.Lights:JDM RS front headlights with HID system.Sequential front turn signal lighting.Rear USDM w/VNT red paint.Exhaust: Early UEL w/2.5in catback to unknown muffler (we'll call it the Noemi Spec C).Electronics:WRX radio.Raizin voltage stabilizer.New Sony xPlod rear speakers.Interior:1997 Outback SUS Safari woodgrain trim (actual laminated wood).Steering:2004 STi steering rack.L&E Fabrications steering wheel to rack conversion joint.Rallitek steering rack poly bushings.How the car looks today.
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I had to drill extra hole in the 2.2t gaskets just 4 or so
What is the full setup of the engine that you're using? Port matching the 22T gasket to match the DOHC heads was a good idea.
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I've been looking for a used STi catback for cheap, I figure the 2.5" would be right nice for this motor, with some headers and deleting the second cat.
Depending on how the cop install goes, I'll post up a thread on the conversion.
I just had a custom resonator delete & 2.5in piping from cat to 3in piping last year. The car sounded marvelous. Unfortunately, the custom piping kept needing to be re-weld, so I ditched the whole system for the stock setup. 2.5in is perfect for the 2.2 or 2.5L.
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I am driving this combo in my car right now.
I have made 2 EJ22 DOHC hybrids, 1 w/222 block & 1 w/22E block (current), both used 25D heads.
In order to mate the 25D heads & EJ22 block sucessfully, you absolutely MUST use this kind of head gasket ->http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Subaru-OEM-Head-Gasket-Pair-EJ22-99-01-Impreza-99-Legacy-NEW-NR-/230801303335?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bcd46727&vxp=mtr.
The necessity is caused by the 22E/T HGs not having the same cooling ports as the 25D heads.
Water pressure gets higher than one would think & the mismatched cooling ports will very likely cause blown gaskets.I've been running my combo in N/A format for about 20k miles now w/compression ratio of 9.5:1 & the low end is a little lacking compared to the 22E at full initial acceleration but the midrange to redline has much more kick to it than a regular 22E.
The power produced is between a 22E & a 25D with a 25D-like power band (about 145-150ish bhp) & power falls off around 6400rpm.
The block has a little piston slap (I used a 95 22E) but it is still a very tough engine that likes being in the higher rpms (2.5k up).
My engine sees anywhere from 1.5k to 3k rpm daily & hasn't given me any issues as of yet. From it's current condition, I can get 100k miles out of this combo w/no major issues. It does have light mods (intake manifold spacer, MSD ignition coil, custom cut intake, headers) but it is proving to be quite the workhorse. I'd recommend this build for anyone looking to replace their blown 25D block & want to either boost or run it in N/A if you wanted to keep the 25D heads. -
I know you have the exhaust, what sort of ignition mods do you have?
I've been reading over some of the coil on plug conversions on nasioc and rs25. Ordered a set of 02 wrx cop's for cheap just to play around with it.
I have an 8239 MSD ignition coil, low resistance wires, & low resistance spark plugs.
I have kept the custom intake & got rid of the custom cat back.
The exhaust is now completely stock for now but I am currently thinking of a way to keep my stock cats & run another custom catback exhaust.
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The power mode mod is on my list, I don't have any extra harnesses around to get the right size pin from currently(waiting on a trip to the salvage yards). Also waiting on the cometic gaskets to show up, were back ordered when I ordered them. I've got 6 left over pistons, ended up buying 10 to get a full set of "B"s for my block, if you decide to do another they probably aren't going anywhere lol.
I've been over your build tread a few times on one of the other forums, quite impressed by your fuel mileage results.
Thanks. I am getting the increased mpgs due to both good driving habits, a slightly enhanced ignition/intake setup, & most importantly, the 30% decrease in cylinder bore from the EJ22E block swap.
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I'm in the process of building an ej22, with eg33 pistons and 97-99 ej25d heads. By the calculations I should have 10.4:1 compression ratio, and the better flowing dohc heads. No idea what kind of power it will make, but it should be fun lol.
That was my goal before I put this one together but I was running short on time & couldn't find EG33 pistons.
Open up your intake ports (port match the head & manifold ports) & do nothing to your exhaust ports.
Run the 25D ECU with that combo & your engine should be VERY rowdy in the midrange & run as smooth as silk.
Just make sure you do not use composite head gaskets & use the Cometic or Victor Reinz gaskets for 2.2 hybrids.
They will pretty much nullify the possibility of blown head gaskets due to being perfectly matching to the 25D heads.
If my engine makes about 150bhp w/a 9.5:1 compression ratio, then I am guessing that you'll be producing about 165-170bhp.
That engine will love to rev though so unless you have done the power mode mod or have a 5 speed, you'll be missing out.
Intake tubing
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I don't see anything wrong with that when it comes to function. For as crude as the design is, and what it is made out of, you have removed the resistance caused by that silly resonator baffle/flex point. Less resistance = easier flow, hands down. Besides, it's the snorkus you have to be wary about removing. Aftermarket intakes are basically the same thing, but made of metal (so they hold heat longer) and more expensive. You will have to keep an eye out for shifting/cracking, but really, if you left the filter box in place, it has rubber points that allow a modicum of movement in regards to vibration/torque anyway. 50/50 chance in that it works great, but may not last too long unless you get much stiffer engine mounts.