pwoens
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Posts posted by pwoens
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any check engine lights?
vacuum leaks often cause this - too much air and giving it gas will overcome a slight leak.
check fuel pressure after the filter?
No check engine lights and no codes being thrown. The AT Temp Light will flash when idle is really low.
I have never understood a good way to check for vacuum leaks - any quick insight on proper route to check this? Same with checking fuel pressure - not sure how to do that??
Thanks buddy!!
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Hello everyone,
Kids car is a 2003 subaru forester 2.5 x 160k auto. Replaced head gaskets last year prior to kid getting her license - made her help
. Once she started driving we quickly found out the gas tank had a faulty vent valve and gave us the notorious issue of slow fill at the pump. We identified the vent valve as the culprit and replaced it. (that job was horrible BTW!!). It idled and ran fine prior to replacing the vent valve in the tank but after the vent valve job was complete we have had a difficult time getting it to start without giving it gas and it idles low most of the time, especially when cold. We did unplug the battery during the vent valve job and found out this can cause a loss of memory on appropriate idle level in some cases??? Here is what I have done to date trying to resolve the intermittent bad idle and not starting without giving it gas:- replaced fuel pump
- reset/relearn the idle by unplugging battery, draining battery, plugging battery back in, turning ignition to on, waiting 10 seconds, and ten starting the car without touching the gas. Important note: The care would NEVER run after plugging the battery back in UNLESS you gave it gas. I even tried turning it over countless times hoping it would learn on its own. This process never would work for me.
- Cleaned the throttle body thoroughly
- inspected all hoses going to fuel pump. It runs fine when you are driving it, just idles low and hard to start.
- unable to find a MAF on this sub anywhere
Anyone have this issue and find a resolution?
Appreciate any insight anyone may have.
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04 Outback H6 LL Bean 124k - has shifted hard from 2nd to 3rd since the day I bought it. I've flushed the transmission by draining fluid, refilling with fresh fluid, and repeat 3 times. I've also replaced the remote trans filter with OEM filter. It's also received the "special" additive from Subaru that's suppose to help with the transfer clutches sticking a little (a whole different topic but should have nothing to do with 2-3 shifting).
Doesn't matter on temp the car always shifts harder than it should form 2-3. Took it to local renowned sub shop and they said replace the trans. Don't believe it. I'd like to swap the shift solenoid first. How and where can I find the exact solenoid I need? Is it a pretty simple job? I've replaced the H6 HG myself so I can't imagine a shift solenoid is too complicated??
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks
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98 impreza ... Could I add cruise control easily? Or is this a big job? If it's doable what all do I need from the parts car?
Thanks
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If you have a complete parts car, you can swap over anything else that might be different (i.e., the turbo car might have a hydraulic clutch). The big thing is making sure that you have the proper rear end ratio to match the tranny.
cool...ya, the turbo has a hydro clutch...
so will the trannys be exactly the same, like will bell housings and all that line up?
So how do I tell if the ratio's are correct??
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my 93 turbo legacy 5 speed ran out of fluid and is shot....will a 92 non turbo 5spd from same legacy body style work???
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Hey.... my 93 turbo legacy started developing an intermittent wobble in the steering wheel about a week ago. Sometimes it will do it when accelerating, sometimes on deceleration, sometimes not at all. Sometimes it will give a quick jerk on the wheel to the left and then release?? I jacked the front end up and both tires feel solid, no looseness like a bearing going out? Tie rod ends and cvs look fine?? Thinking maybe something in the rack/pinion?? Any experience, thoughts, or ideas?? It also does not appear to do it above 45...so anywhere from 15-45 is where it will do it??
thanks for any insight
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plug is still in and has not come loose at all...just to update ya
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I was always under the impression the ej22's were non interference, but it hit me that I really dont know.. So is my ej22t an interference or not?? If not I should prob change the belts
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7500 is way too much especially considering they will prob just be auctioning it off anyways.. Id say 4500-5500 for seattle area.
Sorry about the urgency, but visiting friend's car appears to have broken completely and need to replace ASAP in order to get them back home, about 300 miles away, to get to work.The tow service has a 1998 Legacy Outback with 112,000 miles that they will sell for $7500, and will give $500 - $1700 (unseen range) for the 1990 Toyota dual-cab pickup that the engine seems to have gone out on (were going to try to get that scoped out in the morning at the local repair garage).
Quick thoughts ?
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You're not home free yet. The threads are usually damaged when the engine spits out a plug. You can re-install the plug OK, but the engine spits it out again after a few days to a couple of weeks. I hope you got lucky.
I'll be sure to keep my ears open for the ticking/knocking sounds and will check the tightness over the next few days/weeks. Any cure for it if it is in fact dabaged threads now??
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for a meger 13-20 bucks I would replace the coolant temp sensor....it fixed my problem of similar issue. If I held the gas peddle pegged it would eventually start....so next time it doesnt start try the pedal to the medal. And swap coolant temp sensor.
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so the last few days I have noticed a tick/knocking sound....figured I was going to throw a rod or something. Well...today I was heading up a little hill and all of a sudden kaboom!!! sounded like I threw a rod, smoke blowing, and some loud knocking. I figured I was hosed but popped the hood to see the spark plug dangling and sparking against the fender well. What a relief...some how the plug worked its way loose and that was the ticking/knocking noise. So i put er back together and no noises......runs like a champ.
so if anyone has any ticking or knocking, check your plugs first
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seems it was either the coolant temp sensor (most likely) or the o2 sensor along with temp sensor....replaced both cause i needed to anyways and now problem seems to have gone away....woohoo...thanks everyone.
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just used a little pbblaster and it came right out....thanks everyone
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I bought some pbblaster and will saturate the O2 with that tonight but what else can I try to unseize an O2 sensor??
thanks
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The diagnostic connector is a pair of small single conductor
black plastic connectors. They are a pair that mate for
troubleshooting, to the left of the sterring column.
They are somewhat difficult to connect to each other, at least
on my 90 Legacy they are.
Of course your idea of large may equal my idea of small.
Richard
i think that helps explain the light on the dash..LOL i remember seeing a pair of single prong green plugs (not black) unplugged yesterday and plugging them in....thats kind of funny...what an idiot LOL. so i unplugged them and now i have a simple solid check engine light. thanks guys.
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I just checked and if the diagnostic plug is the big black one with nothing plugged into it, then no I have no wires jumpered in that plug. I do however have two loose wires under there....will take a pic and post it.The diagnostic connectors being connected under the dash may also be why you are havign trouble starting the car. -
ya, i thought this was kind of weird that it would display it like it is...but personally, im glad it is....must have been the offer of a chocolate chip cookie that made her display the code on the dash like this
:confused: The other thing that bothers me is (if I understand correctly) theerror code display's itself without any test equipment or without
connecting the black connectors under the dash. Unless 93 is
different than my 90 the codes should not display automatically.
Either I am confused or 93 is different. If 93 and 90 are the same
then the black connectors are plugged together and the car won't
right like that.
Someone straighten me out on this.
Richard
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Yeah, assuming coolant temp doesn't fix it, IAC wouldn't be a bad shot either. About this time in the age of the car though, the coolant temp sensor (located under the throttle body on the passenger side) usually goes bad. It also exhibits these kind of symptoms, so that's why I thought that first.
do you guys know of the top of your head (since im at work and cant look), is this like the ea82 coolant temp sensors where its simple to get to or do I have to remove any stuff first??
dumb question...what is IAC??
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buy a non-OEM replacement O2 sensor.
Excellent...THANKS!!
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What year? Smells like broken Coolant Temp Sensor to me.
1993 legacy turbo ... ej22t ... will check the coolant temp sensor
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so twice in two days the new car has not wanted to start....it just cranks over and over and over. called the old owner and she said to floor the gas and offer a cookie to it...guess what...it worked??? so what would cause it to not want to start unless its floored?? looks like I have a bad O2 but I dont think that would cause the problem?? Any experience with this issue??
thanks again
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thanks guys...had a feeling cause it hesitates consistently.
as far as displaying it...dunno...its just doing it on the dash in that format..
Anyone have an online source for cheap o2 sensors?? I can get one from NAPA for 92 bucks but maybe online they are cheaper??
2003 forester rough idle and will not start unless you give it gas
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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It does seem to start and idle better after its warmed up. I read that scoobymods thread and was leaning towards the IACV and that thread has me leaning more towards it now. Just wish they were not so darn expensive lol