Mike V

OK. Belt job is complete. All seems good. One thing though is that I pretty much ruined (or finished ruining) the plastic clips that secure the utility/serpentine belt cover, the air snorkel as well as the clips on the driver's side that secure the radiator cover. I am searching for the replacements but it is not clear on the websites whether I am looking at the right clips. Anyone know the part numbers of know of a good site where they point out the various clips in that area?

Thanks for the suggestion, Moose, and I will definitely keep it in mind for future but for the heck of it I looked up the OUTER timing cover for my 2012 Outback, 2.5 l. SOHC, non turbo and they show the wrong one. My car has the two-cover setup and their website shows the three-cover setup.

Thanks Mike. I hope it is like that because I did helicoil it but, as usual when trying to install a helicoil into an engine "in situ" it was not a smooth operation and although I think I am ok (the tensioner bolt did tighten up) , next time I am in there I will replace that part if it is an option. So, belt is in place and all pulleys, etc. installed. Timing marks line up correctly. That was as far as I got because it started raining and I am a shade tree mechanic. Thanks again for all comments!

DISASTER! The threads for the tensioner bolt stripped out of the block. Was not even close to the 29 ft-lb specified torque.

And I am not sure why I am considered a "New User" with only some 17 posts. It may have been a year or two since I last posted but I actually go pretty far back with this site. Glad to see it is still active and helpful!

Thanks guys. That first video looks like my engine and it confirms that the seam I mentioned above is what is used as the timing mark,. I will install the new belt and pulleys today but I will have to wait to receive a new belt cover since I broke the original one... Ordered one off Ebay. 60 bucks. The Aisin kit came with a Mitsuboshi belt, Koyo and NSK idlers and NTN tensioner. ALL parts say Made in Japan including the water pump although I did not see a brand name on it.

Got the Aisin kit. Looks good. I'll post more detail later but I have a technical question: I do not see a timing mark on the block for the right side (passenger side) cam. The left side has the notch in the plastic inner timing belt cover but there is no plastic inner cover on the right side and I do not see an actual notch on the engine. The notch in the cam sprocket looks like it aligns with a joint between the cylinder head and whatever casting is bolted to it. Is that seam what you use as the timing mark?

Yes sir. I do not know what I was looking at when I came to the wrong conclusion on Friday. I have the TKF 006 kit on order. The info and picture on the Rock Auto site indicate that it includes good parts. I am anxious to see what it actually includes... Thanks for responding to my dumb question. Mike V 2012 Outback, NA, 2.5 l, SOHC 1992 Legacy, EJ22 1997 Legacy Brighton (on death bed)

Rock Auto lists an Aisin timing belt kit for a 2012 Legacy but not for a 2012 Outback with the 2.5 liter SOHC engine. What's the difference?

97 Legacy Brighton Wagon, 2.2 liter, non-turbo, 5 speed manual, 290,000 miles Temperature gauge will climb if let engine idle more than 1 minute or so (once engine is at normal operating temp). The temp gauge needle will drop back to normal if hold revs at a higher speed. No tach but I would estimate like 2500 rpm. If you drive the car normally and don't stop and idle the temp gauge is rock solid just below half way (as it always has read). You don't have to move to bring the gauge down - just hold engine at elevated revs.

Where would I find the proper cooling system bleeding procedure?

I did not think ANY of the 2.2 liter, SOHC engines were "interference engines". Can anyone confirm this?

I work in Bethlehem, myself, so I can guess the dealership you are talking about. Although I have total respect for the mechanics there, I am very leary about the management. I took my wife's car there last year as a last resort since that seemed to be the only way I'd get my car through inspection (the godd_m CEL was on...) and paid alot of money for nothing. They also charge over list price for parts. If it were me, I'd talk directly to the mechanic who, supposedly, diagnosed the clutch problem. Otherwise, I would echo the sufggestion above to get a second opinion eleswhere. There's an independent guy over in Klecknersville who specializes in Subies and he seems upright, honest and knowledgeable. Coincidentally I just changed out the clutch in our Subie last weekend. This weekend will be even colder and snowier. Why not go for it yourself?!?

I dropped the trans to do the job. I do not have a hoist to pull the engine. Sounds like I must have missed that electrical plug. I'll check it out. Thanks for the feedback!

Well, I managed to complete the clutch replacement, including flywheel resurfacing, over the weekend. I did the entire job (except flywheel machining) single-handedly, out in the driveway, with temperatures in the 20's, in approximately 16 man-hours. Not too bad, I guess, considering. But, no doubt, this job is a bit of work on this car. It was a bit easier on my old '87 GL. Thanks to the two folks who posted responses to my initial inquiry. I forgot that the pilot bearing is pressed into the flywheel, and not the end of the crank shaft, so it is a simple matter of driving it out. The only issue I still have to resolve is that now the speedometer/odometer does not work. My Haynes manual says I have a "speedometer cable" which had to be disconnected before you drop the transaxle but I definitely do not have a cable on mine. It is possible that I neglected to reconnect a plug if this car has an electrical sender on the trans for this purpose. Does anyone have a comment on this? Again, it is a 1997 Legacy Wagon with the 2.2 l SOHC engine. I am glad I did the job over the weekend 'cause now the temps are in the teens and it would be very difficult to work out there! Thanks again to those who chimed in for me. Mike Vanderzanden