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tincada

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Posts posted by tincada

  1. That's the side that broke for me also. I had to fashion a tool to turn the cam to the alignment marks. I don't weld, so I found a metal bracket at the hardware store that had three holes... the outside holes being about 82mm apart. (Actually it had six holes originally and I used my grinder to cut the bracket in half. I had to use my dremel tool to widen the holes a little as the measurement wasn't exact.) I put bolts in the outside holes that would fit in the cam sprocket holes. I put a short nut and bolt in the middle hole and fixed it in place with some JB weld. (After letting it sit over night) I could then use the tool to turn the cam sprocket and align it AND I could use my torque wrench to put so that the tensioner could be properly adjusted.

     

    My car had 120,000 miles on it. I had someone look at it and they said the water pump didn't need to be replaced, so I didn't replace it. 200 miles down the road I started smelling antifreeze and I had to take the whole thing apart again. The seal on the water pump was bad and so was the "o-ring." I think that the pump itself was probably okay, but I couldn't see going to all that work and putting the pump that had 120,000 miles on it back in. The only thing is that you have to move a lot more stuff to change the water pump than you have to just for the timing belt.

     

    Thanks for reminding me.... I have all the pics and half the write-up done. I shelved it while the stomach flu went around through the three kids and me and then I forgot about it.

     

    Dianalee

    Well I just kept playing around and finally wedged a small (about 8" long) pry bar (heel type, MAC P/N LF6) between the gear teeth and plastic housing rotating it counter colckwise. That did it, was a bit bit leery about over stressing the leverage on the plastic cover. BTW this site rocks! I wish I could find one for my Chevy 2002 Silverado 2500HD.

     

    pete

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