Doodlebug
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Posts posted by Doodlebug
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Sometime when I'm in town and Poppa is off work, I'd like to test the fuses again.
One thing I noticed, after making a stop to get it power rinsed and wiped down, is that the clock reset after starting it up again. No memory anywhere in the car? The power seat belt didn't move out of the way unless the key was in the on position and the door open. It definitely has a power issue! Now I'm curious about our other cars.
I'll have to check their current too! I obviously have A LOT to learn in this area! Any book or website/article you might recommend to help me get a good foundation? I'm working towards going to a really nice automotive collage here in Spokane. Hopefully I will be able to go sometime this next year! If I can get a head start with the electrical side of things, that will make it easier for me to focus on learning the other stuff.
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Update: well, my dad needs the Subaru as of tomorrow. So I found a constant protected wire (one that had already been spliced in the past), and a switched wire (under the steering column), and spliced them to provide adequate power to the stereo. Stereo now powers up fine.
Because I live an hour away from my parents, it's unlikely that I will get back to this project anytime soon. It would have been fun (probably pretty frustrating too), to figure this out. But it will have to wait for another time. Things are working better now then before changing the fuseable link box, etc. So at least some of the issue was fixed.
Thank you guys, especially Cougar, for all the help! I've learned a few more things about electrical stuff. I SO GREATLY appreciate the help with that!
BTW, I tried to power the stereo with the factory wires. Still not enough power. Adding the spliced switched power didn't power on the stereo either. Not until I had both switched and constant power wires spliced, did the stereo turn on. And as a side note, it's an older Kenwood stereo. CD player, detachable faceplate, and no outputs of any kind.
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Cougar, the fuse panel isn't labeled by numbers. So I tested all of them.
With the key off, I pulled one fuse out at a time and had black lead to a part of the chassis without paint, and the red lead I tried both sides of where the fuse was.
The ones colored red, don't have 12v on either side. They are in the mv range. Everything else reads 12v on one side or the other. Common theme?
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Alrighty, with the links IN PLACE. Red testing lead to car side of link (testing uses link), and Black lead to negative battery post. Voltage is the same as battery.
The sluggish power locks we had before are completely fixed. They work like they did when we bought the car several years ago. I quickly checked the power leads for the radio and it's still in the mV range, higher then before I think. I'll have to see if it's enough power for the stereo another day. I've got a screaming headache...
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I didn't write down the numbers, but all of the links on the other side were in the MV range. Would you like the numbers?
Hmm... I just realized I've been writing Milli Volts wrong! Is it more correct to have it mV? We're not talking Mega Volts. Lol.
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Well, testing that way, it would be 12V because the battery side of the link is one piece of metal attached to the one cable as shown in the picture. I can go out and check to make sure.... Yep. 12V.
So now I'm more confused then ever. What would be a good thing to do?
Edit: I have also been pulling off the link before testing.
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Perhaps I'm testing it wrong?
I hold the red tester lead to the battery side of the link, and the black tester lead to the other side of the fuseable link. I still don't have a good understanding of car electrical. Any electrical for that matter.
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Well, I got a nicer used box in case I broke something. I found that the wires are kept in by little metal tabs on one side of each pin. The big whole 4 pin one has two pins, one on each outside pin.
I also upgraded the lead wire.
Now the voltage, with battery at 12.45V:
8.13V
12.45V
2.76V
4.76V
Obviously it's ground, or something else along the path, that's the problem.
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Makes sense.
So, I cleaned up the battery posts, and any connections I could. I couldn't figure out how to get the fuseable link side of the one positive cable detached from the box. And the 4 separate wires on the other side were not coming out either. I sure hope it's not a one-unit piece!
After getting that cleaned up (it really wasn't bad at all, just evidence of not being touched for a while (dirty not corroded)), I tested the fuseable links again.
1st fuseable link, GRN: 8.27V (closest to front of car)
2nd fuseable link, RED: 12.25V
3rd fuseable link, GRN: 6.8V
4th fuseable link, BLK: 1.4V
All a bit better. :-p
Now I know what direction I need to take for the betterment of the car all around! Even if it doesn't fix the radio problem. I'll be focusing on figuring out how to get that other end of the cable out of the box, and upgrading that wire. But I'm going to have to wait, because I don't want to brake my box. I'll dismantle the fuseable box on a Loyale at the salvage yard. A bit naughty, but helpful!
THANK YOU Cougar!!!
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I'll wait to decide my course of action until you guys say something about the voltage numbers. Thanks!!
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Alright, an update.
Battery voltage at start of test: 12.58V (already a bit low from having the key on for a few hours the other day.)
KEY OFF:
1st fuseable link (closest to front of car), GRN: 8.09V
2nd fuseable link, RED: 12.02V
3rd fuseable link, GRN: -9.53V
4th fuseable link, BLK: -0.486V
Radio fuse: 107.5MV
RED/GRN wire: 0.8MV
BLUE/YLW wire: around -120MV
RED wire: 0.8MV
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KEY ON:
Radio fuse: 177.2MV
RED/GRN wire: 2.7MV
BLUE/YLW wire: around -10MV to 50MV
RED wire: 2.6MV
I started to unhook the fuseable links with the key on, and one of the components in the engine bay started clicking, plus the voltage was 0 after unhooking one.
Battery voltage at end of testing: 12.44V
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Does that show anything?
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Well, things took longer in town then I thought. I did find what I was looking for at the salvage yard. Yay.
I have to clean a house all day tomorrow, so anymore input from me will have to wait till Wednesday.
And if my time is demanded elsewhere on Wednesday, it will have to wait until Monday... :-\ I'm anxious to get this figured out.
Thank you Cougar, for more suggestions. The more, the merrier! :-p -
Wow, you guys have been very helpful!
I'm not getting 12V on ANY of the wires whether the key is out, or in and on the ON position. And it doesn't matter what combination I have the stereo hooked up to power, it never makes the whine from the CD player and lights up. If I hook up the stereo directly to the battery in the Subaru it powers on. No problem. I ran a separate wire to try to figure out if any one of the power wires is working (with the key in the on position), I tested in many combinations with one of the stereo wires hooked to the battery, and the other hooked to any combination of RED/GRN, RED, BLUE/YLW. Nothing.
All fuses are good. Everything else in the Subaru works. But I haven't checked to make sure power is getting through the fuse. I will do that.
Oh, and the readings I'm getting from the wires are in the MV range. 200MV or less. With the key in the on position.
There's a lot of RED/GRN wires going through out the dash, but they always go behind the dash, where I can't reach, into a huge bundle of wires and I loose it. And believe it or not, there isn't a single RED/GRN wire in the Chilton wiring diagrams for Loyales. If my dad does decide to keep the Subaru, I WILL be getting at least a wiring book for it! They're nice! :-p
I'm going to town today to do a few things, and to pull (at a salvage yard), whatever you call where you adjust the temp in the car. I broke a small important piece when trying to get the dash back together. I hope to be back before dark to work on it more!
When I get back, I will test some fuse locations and get back with some numbers. And the numbers for the specific wires too.
The sooner I head out, the better the chance that I will have daylight to work. Thank you guys SOOOO much for all your help!! I GREATLY appreciate it!
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I've spent days trying to figure out why the radio doesn't have enough power. I've torn apart the instrument panel and dash some to access the wires better.
As much as I know is the switched 12v power wire is Red/Green. It's joins several other Red/Green wires a few inches behind the radio, but after that I can't gain access enough to follow it. (The dash is still attached somewhere towards the top side. I can lift it up some, but not much. The 3 large bolts along the top of the dash are out.)
There is NO Red/Green wire in the back of the fuse panel. And I can't find any fuses anywhere else. My Chilton's manual isn't helpful with this problem AT ALL.
So, here's my questions, does the Red/Green power wire change colors before getting back to the fuse panel? Or can I just forget that power source and wire in the stereo directly from the battery with an in-line 15A fuse?
I'd really like to know how to get the power source fixed because the other things that small wire is supplying power to will be having issues too. Whatever those are. But I have yet to find any wiring help on this.
PLEASE HELP!! Body wiring issue on 93 Loyale!
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Very cool looking site! Thanks fairtax4me!! That will give me plenty to do when I'm not busy working on the vehicles. (They have good taste for their home page vehicle too!
I drive a 2000 RAV4 (4 door, 1st gen), and am a big fan of RAVs. 
)
I've got new motivation to sort through Amazon's automotive electrical books again. Maybe I need to be less picky with finding ONE good book, and just get several. A well rounded understanding can be better then a very good understanding of one view point.
There will definitely be a next time for this little Subaru.