stevenva
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Posts posted by stevenva
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OK. Looks like most are saying 3.0 H6. That might be my engine for a long time. In August, I bought a 2005 Outback LL Bean which comes with that motor.
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Modding this motor is not going to happen. I lost reverse. All forward gears are fine. Whatever I do will cost $. I'm kinda scared at this point to dump $ into this trans. With all that has been done to the suspension/brakes/tires, a swap will be more $, not outrageous, but the potential results really has me thinking...
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Thanks for your reply. The 2.2 does last practically forever. Mine has over 350,000 miles. Drivetrain is stock. Exhaust was replaced a couple years ago with Magnaflow cats factory pipes and silencers. The car is peppy off the line but falls on its face when it hits 3rd gear.
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96 Legacy L 2.2 Auto.
I have already done:
Wrx 16" wheels, Legacy GT brakes, 205/50/16 Direzza zii star spec, KYB struts & mounts, H&R springs, Ralitek F&R swaybars, STI seats, JDM projectors FX-R 3.0 bixenons with Nightbreaker unlimiteds for high beam and D2S-theseheadlightskickass!, Replaced entire A/C system this spring, 180 amp DC Power Engineering Alternator, Paint is Audi nimbus grey.
This car handles like a go kart.
I lost reverse. I tried filter and fluid to no avail.
I am not spending another dime on this car as long as it has that anemic 2.2. Now I must decide on a drivetrain swap. Has to be automatic. My goal is to have a quick, responsive car that is a blast to drive.
Budget $2000. I'm not concerned with labor.
This pic was taken prior to some upgrades
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Drivers front.
The portion of the spark plug boot that is outside of the engine, (where you pull it), is clean. Pull the boot as you would when replacing a spark plug and the portion inside the engine is covered in oil.
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1. Somewhere that allows the plug boot and outside of spark plug of cylinder 1 to be coated in oil.
2. Just over 318,000 miles.
3. Yes.
4. Ngk.
There is no more ticking. That has been gone since April when I changed oil and switched brands.
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96 Legacy 2.2. The spark plugs go in above the valve covers, Not through them. It may be a coincidence but the problem started after switching to Red Line oil. I used other full synthetics before, (Amsoil, M1, RP) never had an issue. Red Line is also the only one that quieted the ticking valve lash also.
I won't get a check engine or a misfire if I baby it. There are times when I must accelerate briskly to merge into fast traffic. If the motor's cold (first 4 miles and under load), I will get a P0301 code for the misfire in cylinder 1. That is the only cylinder that has the issue.
While replacing spark plugs I was shocked by the #1 boot as well as the outside of the spark plug drenched in oil. The other plugs are fine. The business end, (electrode inside the cylinder where it sparks) is fine.
So I replaced plugs and wires. No help. What is the deal?
I know it's an older car with a ton of miles but I like it, I wan't to make it well.
What drivetrain would you put in this car
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
On my 05 Beaner with the H6 it doesn't have a very accurate or responsive drive by wire system and the trans takes every opportunity to upshift to highest gear. I'm starting to research Romraider and other sites to tweak it with ONES and ZEROS