Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

yumabrat

Members
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by yumabrat

  1. Does the vibration only happen while you are moving? Or does it happen while you are stopped as well? Just a question that might be help answer your question.

     

    Just a guess, but your front end might be out of alignment, if the vibration only happens while you are moving. Check the tire tread for uneven wear. This could indicate that the front end is misaligned.

  2. I don't know about other member who live in the southwest, but I do not see many subarus older than 1990's. My brat is the only one that I know of in Yuma county ...well there was a gen 2 and a gen 1 4 door in the junkyard. But it got crunched along with quite a bit of the junkyard's older cars :mad: ..... That sucks because I want to do some of the mods that you guys are always talking about. But because the older subarus in this area are really rare, I think it will be a long time until I can

  3. I had almost similar problems with my brat.... even though my brat has the old point type distributor. The symptoms were almost identical...... The solution for me was just to replace the points and condensor.

     

    If I remember right, the eletronic ignition distributors have the module where the points would be in the earlier dist...... correct me if I'm wrong or repeating information..... I think that If you replace the module inside the dist it will fix your problem....

     

    This is the part I think might be your problem: ignition module partsamerica.com (click the link to see the part I'm talking about)

     

    Hope this helps

    James

  4. In addition to checking the exhaust for leaks, you might want to make sure that all grommets on the firewall are intact. This will not only let exhaust gasses and cold air in, worn grommets can also cause hoses, wiring, cables, and wiring to chafe against the sheet metal (none of which is good).

     

    Hope you find the solution to your problem...... I think I would complain about the cool wind blowing in my face here in southern Arizona.... I don't know what I would do I lived somewhere it actually snowed

     

    James

  5. Well..... a jb-weld testemonials say that some guy fixed a hole in his engine block with a bolt and two washers and some jb weld. He opened up the engine case.... placed the bolt and washer through the hole.... sealed the inside with jb-weld........ placed another washer on the outside of the case...... sealed it with jb-weld.......... bolted it down and then let it cure.

     

    I am not sure that this could be done with the transmission. I know on the my brat there is not one smooth place on the transmission housing (all sorts of indentations and milling marks)

     

    This is just something I read this on the package, once....... not sure how this repair job would actually perform...... This could just be another outrageous claim made by a company to sell their product...... who knows?!

     

    Just an idea,

    James

  6. Cool.... What kind of price would you be asking for the valence and or seat belt?

     

    Also.... Because I am still fairly new to the whole car thing, what kind of shipping arrangements need to be arranged (there would be no way I could pick it up... I live in southern AZ).

     

    PS

     

    Because of the holidays and expenses for the upcoming semester of school I will not have any cash untill the middle of Jan.

     

    Thanks,

    James

  7. Well....... The main thing on my shopping list is the front valence (I think that is what you call it). The sheet metal that makes up the lower front nose behind the bumper (the original owner tried to tow the car by attaching a chain to the body work rather than the tow hooks... idiot).

     

    Some other things that I am looking to scavenge are some seats, a new dash, drivers side seat belt, pasengers side door latch (the part inside the door), and a drivers side inside door handle (the old one broke due to a worn out latch).

     

    These are some of the items that I would like to get. I am sure that there are more...... but I can't think of them right now.

     

    Thanks,

    James

  8. Thanks for the info.... your descriptions (the "redi-sleeve" and the machining process) were adequate for my purposes. And, I am thankful that there are people out there who have technical training as well as those who know by loving what they do. I hope that some day I can answer a question with the authority that those on this forum do.

     

    Thanks,

    James

  9. the pulley boss also wears but can be repaired by sleeving back to original specs, Redskin.
    What exactly is this "sleeving" process. I repaced my fron oil seal only to have the leak return. If the sleeving is just adding more metal back to the pulley, then what are the specs for the pulley (ea71 engine).

     

    Any ideas of the kind of shops that I would take the pulley to to have this procedure completed?

     

    Thanks

    James

  10. yes use the '83 and newer EA81 distys since its two wires you have to hook up besides the coil wire. I never really had a chance to screw with mine to get the timing marks to come up since I had to drive it everyday and I couldn't be without a car. So I got my Brat running with it and rebuilt the stck Hitachi and I was getting 30mph from a 26 year old engine. Maybe you need to screw with it to get the marks to come up but I never really had a chance to do so.....

    Did you say that your brat only goes 30mph? I find that hard to believe. I have a 78 brat and I have no broblems going on the freeway(64-70mph) I still have throttle left.

     

    I hope that I heard you wrong. I just think that 30 mph is a little slow no matter how old the vehicle is.

     

    James

  11. Thanks for all your help. It is nice to see that there are other people out there that are dedicated to these unique vehicles. I find myself kind of lonely where I live. The only brat that I have seen in my area is mine. Not to many other early subarus around either.

     

    Once again thanks for all your help.

    James

  12. Do you need anything else to go with the dist swap (such as external module box)? Or, is everything self contained in the distributor? Caboobaroo said that they lost the ability to use a timing light after the swap? Why is that? I would like to keep the ability to use a timing light after making the swap.

     

    You mention that the dist from the ea81's would swap into the EA71's will the earlier EA's dist swap into the EA71's. The reason I am asking is that a website(http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/subaru.htm) is selling a points conversion kit that will fit the earlier dist. It seems to me that if a dist from a EA 81 can fit into both the EA71 and earlier, then the earlier dist can fit into the newer engines.

     

    Am I crazy?

     

    Thanks for all your help

     

    James

  13. First of all, some info. I have a 1978 brat. It seems like the life of a clutch cable for me is about six-eight months. When it breaks, it breaks right where the cable connects to the clutch pedal assembly. Is there any history of clutch cable problems. At first, I thought maybe it was the clutch it self, so I replaced it with new components (disk, pilot bearing, clutch cover, and throw out bearing). Please help. Even though the cable is a snap to replace, I am getting tired of getting stranded at the worst possible moment.

     

    Thanks a million,

    James

×
×
  • Create New...