r_chopin
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Posts posted by r_chopin
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I have a strange issue with my 2000 Forester (my mechanic doesn't want to deal with it anymore).
Two months ago, the engine was stalling and coughing, so eventually I replaced both o2 sensors. It fixed that issue, but another one came up. Typically, after I start the car the engine doesn't keep the RPM's and dies, so I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal. Once I start driving and reach higher RPM's, the engine keeps running, if I put it in neutral.
Yesterday, the RPM's where going in the other direction, though - jumping to 3000 and staying for 5-10 seconds, then stabilising at around normal 750.
I would apreciate suggestions on what to check.
Thank you.
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I'm glad you got it fixed. However, you mechanic is incorrect on the leak issue. First, 4-cylinder has only bank one sensors. Bank one does not point to any heads but to the engine as a whole. Silicates present in antifreeze are very toxic to O2 sensors, that explains why it died in only several months. Get oil tested for water, sodium, and glycol for confirmation.
Thank you very much for your valuable comment, Jacek. I will pass that info along.
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Just to let everybody know, the problem is a faulty O2 sensor (front one), that my mechanic got from the dealership. Hard to believe, but it's been 7 months since I got this changed, so the dealer won't even exchenge it.
Oh well, at least the problem is solved.
Thank you everybody for your posts.
R.
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Wow! I hope someone chimes in on this. I got nothing solid - but I THINK the ECU compares the front O2 to the post cat O2 but how it decides one versus the other I'm not sure - so perhaps the cat is bad or the rear O2 is bad and the ECU is mis-reporting/fooled. I would expect the fron one to go bad first. Do you know the history of this car? Has it ever run rich for extended period? Already had any sensors replaced? Any recent work done? Any signs of rust/corrosion in the engine bay? Any weird dimming of lights? How have you been reading and clearing the O2 code? A clogged cat can rob power but I've never read of one surging like you explain. If you're not getting any cylinder misfire codes, it would seem to be a fuel/air issue or a sensor intermittent - not high voltage related.. Maybe TPS, MAF - I got nothing but guesses.
Carl
Thank you for your post Carl.
Here are some of my answers:
I got this car a year ago (with 145K Kms), so I have no history of previous problems (maybe now I do a little). I have been driving with the CEL light on for about 6 months now. I replaced only the front O2 sensor. I forgot to add that driver's side head gasket leaks the coolant (just a bit, but noticable).
To read and clear the codes I go to my mechanic, and he is using the Snap-on tool I believe. The code (I can't remember the exact code reading but it says something like "...one, bank one"). He says it points to the head that is not leaking, so the leak might be irrelevant in this case. I am not getting any cylinder misfire codes.
So you think replacing the rear O2 sensor might help?
I left the car with my mechanic today, and let him take care of it.
Cougar - thank you for your comments. I believe the wiring to the ECU has been verified.
Much appreciated.
R.
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I have a serious problem with my beauty. I have to begin with that the odometer shows 180K Kms, so the engine had its golden years some time ago. I have been fighting the CEL problem for about 7 months now, and can't get rid of it (the code points to the front O2 sensor [bank one], yet the new sensor didn't help).
But lately I have this weird issue, where the RPMs on idle go between 400 and 1000 (most of the times), or they jump to 2000 and stay for app. 5-10 seconds. When driving and trying to accelerate, the engine hesitates and suddenly catches the RPMs in the upper 2000, giving it a sharp push. It seems to be OK when I fully open the throtle. So when the RPMs are between 1500 and 3000 it behaves like stop and go. Sometimes even when you push the gas pedal to maximum (at gear 2 and 3) it does not accelerate at all, and I have to reduce the gear.I would appreciate any comments.
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Here is a link to a site, showing how popular the "head gasket" problem is in Subarus: http://mysite.verizon.net/vze730qe/guestlog.html
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I am bit dissapointed with the gas usage on my 2000 Forester, and I find some contradicting information on what the fuel consumption is (by the book). I get around 11.5L/100Km driving mostly on highways. Let me add that my beauty has a standard transmission. I have recently replaced spark plugs, air, and fuel filter, and the O2 sensor, but that did not affect my mpg.
1. Is anybody aware of any related recalls on the model?
2. Any ideas on how I can leave less $ at the gas stations.
3. Can you please post your Forester's mpg (what is the unit by which the gas is sold in the US - imperial or US gallon?).
Your comments much appreciated. Greetings to everybody on the forum.
R.
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Does anybody know what features come with the Dynastar edition of the 2000 Forester. I can't find any info on that anywhere.
Thank you,
R.
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Guys,
How about the octans? Don't think it's possible to approach 30mpg with 87.
How is the oil affecting it?
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Thank you for your replies. Very much appreciated.
Ch.
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Hello Everyone,
First of all let me tell you, that this forum is full of very usefull info - thank you.
I just bought my first subaru (2000 Forester), and I am enchanted. Partly, because I switched from 1990 Mazda 626, so the comfort level is a few classes up now.
As my beauty has a manual transmission, I noticed that when the temperature outside drops to 'close to zero', it's hard to shift to 1st, and 2nd gear. Once the engine (or probably transmission) gets warm, it shifts fine. I am wondering how it's going to react to the Canadian winter temperatures.
Does anybody have an idea, what it could be caused by, and how to attempt to fix it.
Thank you.
Greetings,
Chopin.
2000 Forester - RPM Going Crazy
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
EVOthis, nipper,
Thank you very much for your reply.
Here is some additional info:
- I have around 275K, but I replaced the engine (from 2003 model), last year with apparently around 120K on it.
- The CEL is on and reporting a fault with the evaporative emission control system (I believe); unfortunately I don't remember the code number.
- When the engine gets warm, it has almost no effect on the issue.
Just to re-summarize the problem - when I try to start the car it either won't start without my foot on the gas pedal or it starts with very high RPMs (e.g. 3000). What happened this morning was the following - tried starting couple times without success - removed the key from ignition - started again and this time it started with high RPMs. Eventually the RPMs will stabilise, but for the first few kilometers of the ride and whenever I stop or put it in neutral, it goes to e.g. 2000 and takes about 10 seconds to go down to 750. The same goes for when it starts with low RPMs - on neutral it goes down to e.g. 400 and takes a few seconds to raise to 750.
Typically after a longer ride it behaves OK ... untill I start the engine again. If I am to start it, right after that long drive, it typically behaves fine. But when I let it rest for some time (even 10-15 minutes), the problem is back.
Thank you very much!