river2surf
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Posts posted by river2surf
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Hate to be a rain cloud, but I will... the wiring is a bit different. The XT uses a integrated idle switch/TPS where the turbo does not. The spider intake is cool like that. I have a theory on how to make it work... but you won't like it:-\
Well, I am getting ready to do the swap soon. I am replacing a previous swap of the same engine. I am prettey sure it is straight forward, but wanted to know if there were any things I should be aware of. The MPFI worked well in my GL-10 Turbo wagon, but blew a head gasket. So I am sure it can be done, it is just a matter of time and any pointers since I did not do the original swap!
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OK, so I will probably have to change the engine accessories, does this mean I will need to change the water pump too. The donor engine is an 88 and the GL-10 is a 89.
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This same swap has been done before, but by another person. I have an XT donor car and am getting ready to swap the engine out, and want to know if there is anything I should know before the swap.
Can I just pull the motor from the XT and put it into the GL-10 with te accessories still on the motor (ie. AC, power stearing pump, alternator)?
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I have a car that has the same conversion. After a bit of investigating, I found the check engine light is because the engine did not have a knock sensor (code 22). I added a knock sensor and wired it into the wire harness and viola! No more check engine light!
1989 GL-10 Turbo w/ 88 XT non-turbo
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Is it possible to replace the engine in my GL-10 Turbo body, which has an XT MPFI 1.8L engine now, with the XT6 motor?
What ECM does the XT6 use?
Will a full wiring harness replacement be necessary?
Also, want to replace the single range AWD trany with a HI/LOW model if possible! This would give me the Diff. lock and low range!
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I never did find a switch!!!!
Checked a digi dash in a junk yard and could not find a switch there. And nothing down at the buttons for the trip computer.
I think it may be in the computer!
I have an 89 - GL10.
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I want to get a set of side window deflectors for a 1989 GL Wagon!!!!!!!!!
Has anyone seen them?
Where can I get them?
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For single wire O2 sensor, put one lead of the meter on the sensor wire, you need to leave the wire connected. The other lead of the meter goes to body ground. The meter should be set to volts and it should fluxiuate rapidly between .40 and .60 volts or there about.
If the O2S voltage is stabilixed between .45 and .55v or the voltage fluctuates very slowly between .4 and .6 volts (crosses .5v less than 5 times in 10 seconds), the sensor is probably bad.
To test the systems ability to detect a lean mixture condition, you need to remove one of the vacuum hoses connected to the intake manifold and voltage should drop to about .12 v but still fluctuates rapidly.
To test if the system can detect a rich mixture, you need a special tool.
Anyway, just replaced mine, it went bad in my 89 GL-10. Good luck!
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I second the O2 sensor. It can easily be tested with a multimeter.
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I am supprised there is not a thred on this. Anyway....
Anyone know of a good junk yard that will ship parts?
Names and numbers would be great.
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I will buy the ECM and knock sensor if you are willing to sell parts. I have an 88XT engine in my 89 GL-10 and the ECM (computer) has gone out. I was supposed to leave 2 weeks ago for Costa Rica from California. I am having trouble locating the appropiate ECM (Part number: 22611 AA630). If your are intrested, PM or e-mail me, I am sure we can come up with a deal.
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Anyone have the info?
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Looking for a copy of an 88 XT 1.8 MPFI Engine Electrical System Diagram. Need diagrams for the connectors under the hood, between the engine and the ECM. Looking for the FSM diagram!
Trying to ensure that all connections are correct between the 1989 GL-10 computer and the 1988 XT engine.
Also if anyone can confirm the 88 XT ECM part number, that would be helpful too!
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Part number: 22611 AA630
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Need computer for a MPFI engine.
My car: 1989 GL-10 turbo
My engine: 1988 XT
Looking for something that will work, does not need to be exact match, but does need to be from MPFI.
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Well, after pulling my dash apart, and looking at another digi dash, I can not find this switch you are talking about. If anyone has more information, I would really appreciate it. I am leaving on Sunday and will be spending 6 months driving around Central America and would like my spedo to read KPH instead of MPH.
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OK. Found where the Knock Sensor is supposed to be, but it appears that the person that put this engine in the car may have removed it. I see a hole in the block on the right side, near the rear of the engine, under one of the hoses going to the intake tube, and infront of the flywheel housing. I now need to find the wiring harness for it.
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Well more issues solved, but some still exist.
I fixed the wire for the O2 sensor, but it seems the O2 sensor is bad. The voltage is not changing up and down as the repair manual states it should. Voltage on the sensor starts OK .45v but continues to drop lower and not vary back and forth between .45 and .55v. Looking to replace the O2 sensor.
Found the problem as to the high resistance in the Black lead on the MAF. It seems that the ECM fried the ground circut. Jumped the ground wire (ECM wire 5) and the car immediately ran better, but the MAF is still not within specifications on the SA terminal. Base voltage should be 1 - 2v, but I am getting a base voltage of 2.5v. Other than the high voltage just stated, the MAF tested OK.
Does anyone know what this will cause?
Also, all codes with the exception of the Knock sensor (code 22) have been cleared, but this is expected as the XT motor does not have a knock sensor. Might look to add one, any ideas how?
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Well, after looking things over and over, I checked the O2 sensor plug and it seems that there is a bad connection. I am going to replace the connector tomorrow. Let's hope that solves the problem!!!!
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Thanks for all the great info guys!
Well, the fuel pump is OK!
So at least I do not have to buy a new one!
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Correct me if I am wrong, but the procedure I have does not mention the return line in checking just fuel pump. If I were checking the pressure after the pressure regulator, I would then be involved with the return line. I believe then my pressure should be 26 - 30 psi not the 61 - 71 needed prior to the pressure regulator (between the fuel pump and the fuel filter)?
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Cool, thanks for the info. Need to rerun my check. Did not clamp off return line. I will check it tomorrow.
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Anyone know the specs for:
1988 XT 1.8 MPFI Fuel pump pressure?
I found some specs stating 61 - 71 psi......is this right?
Is the SPFI fuel pump different?
My pump is about 32 psi about 30 psi low when I check it with an inline fuel pressure guage at the fuel filter.
Is there another filter after the fuel pump but before the main fuel filter under the hood?
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Anyone know the specs for:
1988 XT 1.8 MPFI Fuel pump pressure?
I found some specs stating 61 - 71 psi......is this right?
Is the SPFI fuel pump different?
My pump is about 32 psi about 30 psi low when I check it with an inline fuel pressure guage at the fuel filter.
Is there another filter after the fuel pump but before the main fuel filter under the hood?
Longest trip in a Loyale
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Well, just to add another story.
I have a 1989 GL-10 Turbo bought for $50. The engine blew on the Blue Ridge Parkway and was replaced with a 1988 XT MPFI non turbo engine with 120K miles. The care then made it back to Colorado where it became a daily beater.
When the engine had 150K and the car had 225K, the road trip started. We left CO for Bozeman, MT and back. On the return trip we had a additonal gear in the form of a whitewater raft frame and all need accessories. Once back in CO, packed for a 6 month journey through Mexico and Central America. The car was loaded down to the max. All camping gear and supplies needed to make the journey, including a Mt. Bike, kayak, raft oars, raft frame. When we crossed from La Paz to Matazlan, the car was weighed and based on the Subaru specs, we were hauling about 1200 lbs of gear.
The trip took us from Colorado to SF, CA then south through Baja then after a ferry crossing to Matazlan down through Guatemala crossing from west to east and into Honduras. After touring Honduras, we then drove through Nicaragua to our temporary (3 month) location in Costa Rica.
While in Costa Rica, we lightened our load on most occasions for our local trips. But when going to Panama to renew our visas and to complete the journey to the Panama Canal the load was only about 1/2 of the beginning of the journey.
After returning to Costa Rica, we sold the raft to lighten the load. The car was evaluated by a mechanic and a few minor problems were fixed for $50 including changing the oil. The mechanic valued the car at $1500 - $2000 usd.
With confidance in the car, we took an almost completely different route on the return taking us through new terrain. We encounterd various road conditons ranging from perfect high speed highways, to low speed highways with pot holes that a full size truck could not get out of, to the worst washboard roads known to man, to rally style dirt road driving, and even an attempt to drive up a volcano where only the steepness and lack of horse power turned us back. After retruning to the US (exactly 6 months later) into Arizona back to SF, CA and then back home to Colorado.
Unfortunately, the car blew a head gasket after the 25k mile journey in 7 months with only oil changes, 2 flat tires (same tire, different holes and repaired on the road) and a rusted out exhaust pipe near the 2nd catilic converter (easily replacable in Mexico). We were less than 150 miles from our final destination but were able to limp the car to its final destination where I am going to put another 88 XT MPFI non turbo into the car to let it live again.