Blu Bug

Is a failed tensioner an obvious thing at first glance or does it show up while the motor is running?

Update: After taking apart the rocker arm assembly and inspecting the adjusters I was convinced that this is not my problem. I bought a stethascope (sp) and found the noise was the loudest when probing the block just under the intake manifold.

Additional information: I got mixed up during the removal of the rocker arm assembly and did not follow the bolt removal sequence as outline in the manual I have. Could I have bent something?

I just purchased a rebuilt short block and the shop I bought it from took my heads and had them gone through (to what extent I am not sure) and bolted them on to the block for me. I recently put the engine into my VW based baja bug. I am getting a noise that sounds like a collapsed or partial collapsed hla. The first time I took the valve covers and rocker arms off I found one completely collapsed adjsuter and two that were not pumped up all the way. I purchased three new adjusters from Subaru, bled them and put everything back together. Fired motor up and after ten seconds the noise was back. I took everything apart again and all of the adjuster were extremely firm. I took apart the rocker arm assemblies and cleaned everything and blew out the oil passages with air. After all was back together and running the noise came back. I just bought all new adjusters from RockAuto and put them in today. Started car up and after ten - fifteen seconds the noise came back. It does not go away when warm, gets quieter at high RPM, momentarily goes away with a quick blip of the throttle, but will get increasing loud if you slowly apply the throttle. Any ideas?

Thanks for all of the input. As usual I am over thinking my situation. Blocking off the port and warming up the car by working the throttle is what I should probably do.

Does anyone know if the subaru valve works like the fore mentioned Bosch valve?

The Bosch 2 wire IAC installed in line sounded like a great idea so I did some searching for Bosch IAC valves and ran across a post where a fellow who had a similar aftermarket ECM to mine (only one PWM output for idle control) and he was hooking up a three wire Bosch IAC valve. He connected the center pin to 12v, connected one of side pins through a resister to ground and connected the other side pin to the EMC idle control output. He said the resistor ground would act like the spring of a two wire solenoid valve. The three wire IAC (automatic transmission) valves for my motor are still available and easier to find used than the two wire (manual transmission) valves. If they work like the Bosch (one power and two grounds) the resistor ground idea sounds interesting. Any thoughts?

No luck on finding info related to my needs. Does anyone know if I could remove the spring from the solenoid to make it closed all of the time and just use the thermal spring that is heated by the coolant, so I have at least cold start air vacuum?

I have this motor in a baja bug and I am currently using an aftermarket computer that only sends out a PWM signal for the solenoid. I will do some searching on LegacyCentral, thanks for the lead.

I have a 2.2 non-turbo motor out of a 1991 Legacy with a manual transmission. The solenoid (two pin) is bad. I have tried multiple sources to buy a new idle air control valve, but no one has them anymore. Does anyone know of an obsolete supplier or a lead to someone that can rebuild the solenoid? Thanks in advance, Blu Bug

I am trying to connect a Stinger 4 EMS to a 1992 Legacy 2.2 Manual Transmission (2-pin) IAC valve. The stinger manual shows one wire going to the valve. What should I hook to the other termial, ground? power? or is the ecu not compatiable? Thanks in advance, Roy