jeansain
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Posts posted by jeansain
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from what you are saying about the hard drive,maybe this is "spark knock",next time you are low on fuel try preimium,just 5-8 dollars worth till you see if that helps. most small exhaust leaks make themself known when the engine is lugging.
I don't think it's knocking. Because it would do it mostly when climbing hills and not just in 3rd, which is not the case.
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this sounds like a exhaust leak at maybe at the man. flange.
Hi Ed,
Thx for answering.
You're probably right because if I accelerate lightly, I don't hear it. However I don't understand why it does that only in 3rd gear.
Update: The noise reminds me of the sound a computer hard drive produces when it's working, but louder of course.
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Recently, I've been hearing a soft ticking noise from the engine compartment when I accelerate in 3rd gear (manual 96 Impreza). It gets louder the more I accelerate. Doesn't do it on any other gear.
Any ideas?
Thx.
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Sorry, but whats a fram filter?
Thx for all the info though!
Fram is a company that makes bad filters.
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to answer the question about miles i have 94000 on it not that much. most people tell me that subarus are good for atleast 150000 as long as i keep the oil up in it.plus i have done a bunch of new things to it about 27 hundred dollars worth im hoping it will last me for awhile also i need to no the symptoms of a bad fuel pump my car hesitates on acceleration exept when the car is cold
At this mileage, I wouldn't think it's the piston rings, unless it's been overly abused, like running without oil.
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When I turn the switch for the rear wiper, I hear a click at the back, but the wiper doesn't budge. Does that mean the motor is still good, but linkage is bad, or is it just the relay I am hearing?
TIA
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By an chance were you cleaning your car?????? You have accidently switched the parking lights on , the switch is on the centre steering wheel console between the turn signal switch and the wiper switch Just flip it the other way
SEA#3
I feel sooo stuuupid! That was it!!
But I should say that this is a terrible design. I can easily see someone not even noticing that their lights are on and draining their battery. Or worse, thinking there is a short in the car and having a dishonest mechanic take advantage...
What's the purpose of having an additional switch for the parking lights anyhow?
Anyway, many thanks.
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Hi Everyone!
Here in Canada, DRL are compulsory and since the early 90's all cars come with them. Mine comes from the US so it didn't have DRL originally. To make it Canadian legal, the importer rewired it so that when I turn off the engine the lights go off, even if the switch is on. So leaving the switch always on did the trick.
Now all of a sudden today, the parking lights stay on all the time, even with the engine and the light switch off , unless I disconnect the battery.
Anyone knows what went wrong?
TIA
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Your symptoms very much sound like a failing alternator.
If so, you can get a Subaru rebuilt cheap at 1stSubaruparts. I got mine there.
https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/
Good luck!
Could it not be just the voltage regulator/brushes?
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Thanks for the replies everyone.
I disconnected the battery for a couple of hours and re-connected it and that solve the problem... hopefully for good. If it happens again, I'll the have the codes read.
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Some info that may be useful:
Since the very cold weather started, once in a while, there is a strong gas smell inside the car. I am thinking it may be the charcoal canister (if there is one in this car). If that is the case, there may be a connection, since most CEL are emission related. Any thoughts?
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What is the most likely cause of a check engine light, when engine performance and idling is OK?
Happened just all of a sudden this morning when I went to start the car. The starter turned but the car the car didn't start at first. I then tried again and it fired after a brief hesitation but the check engine light stayed on.
Now it starts fine but the CEL is still on. Any ideas?
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There are 2 holes on my bumper where they used to be. The switch is already on the dash. I guess they broke and the PO didn't bother to replace them. It seems that Hella makes a pair that bolts right on. Anyone knows which model?
TIA
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Anybody knows if there are aftermarket fog lamps available for my 96 Impreza OBS? The ones from the dealer are ridiculously expensive.
TIA
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With all that running, they could come in handy if she trips on something... Kind of natural shock absorbers...I though she had some sort of accident...and those were double airbags :-)
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That would make too many unhappy voy... guys on this board!Jeansain, could you give your avatar girl a good sport support bra for Christmas ? Looking at her run gives me aches in my phantom breasts.
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I see what you mean! Maybe I won't be doing that dreaded 180 after all...EXACTLY!Better to have the wheels on ice spin away the excess torque, as with open diffs.
LSD will keep power going to those two on the pavement and produce a serious amount of yaw. Even if it's only the rear that has LSD.
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There is no question that I feel safer driving the Sube in the snow than the Merc (we've already got enough of the white stuff here for me to have experimented with both). However I am not sure I agree with you on what you said. If I floor it on black ice with the Sube, I think I'd probably end up doing a 180...Well, say you're driving with one side of the car on ice and one side on pavement. If you floor it, both the tires on ice will start to spin. Since pretty much no power is going to the wheels on dry pavement, and the wheels on ice aren't getting any traction, the traction from the wheels on pavement will probably keep you going straight...Hopefully I'll never have to find it out the hard way!
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The way you describe it (assuming I don't have LSD), if only one side of the vehicle hits some icy road while driving, while the other side stays on dry pavement, I could lose control of the vehicle! Whereas my traction control equipped, 2-wheel drive Mercedes would stand a better chance?!If you don't have a limited slip in the axel differentials, then it will do the normal taking away power from the wheel with better traction and giving it to the spinning one manuever. Say your rear left wheel looses traction, it starts spinning. this caused the driveshaft speed to increase, but the front driveshaft speed stats the same because the front whells still have traction. this makes the center differential lock up and force the front driveshaft to turn at the same speed. this limits the amount one wheel can spin, and the car moves forward. now if a wheel on the front is slipping at the same time as one on the rear, both will spin at equal speed, but the car will go nowhere. Unless you have a limited slip in your axel differential. The best AWD would have three limited slips. One in the front, one in the center, and one in the rear differentials.Please note that this scenario (called "black ice") is not at all far fetched. It happens quite often here in Canada during the winter.
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Thanks everyone for your posts!The MT's system. The fluid in the center diff is actually a silcone based fluid. There are clutch plates in there. Inner, and outer plates. When a speed difference occurs, this fluid heats up and causes the plates to lock up. The most torque split that can occur is 50/50...I am not worried about front to rear torque distribution as this has most to do with torque than safety, but about left-right split on the same axle. Indeed, if both wheels on the same axle are not turning at the same speed (in a straight line) you have a safety prob.
When a wheel starts spinning, how does the other one - on the same axle - react? For the silcone based fluid to work here, it would have to be IMHO, not only in the center diff but also in each individual diff.
If, as most say here, the system works great, there has to be something that makes it work!
Josh: Does each diff have this silcone based fluid? If so, how quickly does it react (heat up and thicken) to transfer torque to the non-spinning wheel?
TIA
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I have read that before.Manual-equipped Subarus use a viscous coupling, similar to a limited slip differential (and certain full-time 4WD transfer cases) where under normal, dry circumstances the torque is split 50/50 ...What I'd like to know is the following: when a wheel starts to spin, is traction transferred to the other wheel on the same axle, and if so, how is that done?
For instance, in my 2-wheel-drive Mercedes with traction control, when one of the rear wheels starts spinning, the system can apply the brakes and/or back-off the throttle opening until both wheels turn at the same speed.
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I know that in a conventional 2-wheel-drive vehicle, most of the traction is transferred to the spinning wheel, in slippery conditions, which is why those are dangerous in snow/ice. Those with traction control balance traction between the 2 wheels when that happens, thereby making driving safer.
In a MT AWD sube is traction 25% on all wheels at all times, including slippery conditions? If not, how does it work?
Understanding how it works would let me know how confident I should be when driving my MT Impreza OBS in inclement weather.
Thanks
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Interesting the way you capitalize your words. Must take you much longer to write this way!Hi, New To This Site So Please Dont Be To Hard On Me. My Daughters 04 Ob Is Due For A Fuel Filter Change And I Bought The New Filter Thinking It Would Be Easier To Find That Way. However After 4 Hours Of Searching Every Place I Could Think Of, Still Didnt Find It. Any Help Would Be Appr.
Synthetic Oil AFTER replacing seals?????
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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If it's not leaking oil anywhere else, I don't see why not.
Mine wasn't leaking any oil so I switched to syn when I bought it with 142k miles (227 in kms). Now one year later and with almost 150k, still no leak.