SubaRube
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Posts posted by SubaRube
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I noticed those a few years back. Thanks for reminding me, my boot looks
like it almost gone. It looks like it's starting to rip.
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I don't have anywhere to do the work for one. And honestly, I'm too busy to
wrench on my car at this point in time. I might just try to get a second
manifold for cheap so I can just swap it out when ready.
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My EGR passages are completely clogged. Is there any good ways
to clean 'em without removing the manifold and soaking it? Does the
speedo cable on the drill really work or should I not waste my time?
Can't pass smog 'til I can get it cleaned out.
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I just scored some Brembo's from TireRack.com for $10 a piece. Shipping
was only $13 and I got them the next day. I guess they're not going to
stock parts for our cars anymore, just "special order" from here on out.
Not sure how many they have left.
I put some new Brembo's on three or four years ago and haven't had any
problems to report. I put a set of Bendix Import IQ's on at the same time
and haven't had any problems there either. I got the last set of Ceramics
TireRack.com had in stock for $16 so thats what I'll be using this time around.
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I'm hoping someone can help me out real quick. My car was stolen
the other day and they took the radio. I got the car back and luckily
it seems to be alright, but I started it up this morning and all was
fine until one of the wires hanging out of the dash from the radio
touched a screw and it just stopped running. Everything comes on
and it turns over, but I can't hear the fuel pump buzzing at all. What
did I blow?
Horn/Hazard/clock fuse was blown.
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In the late 80's I had 2 Nova's, a 62 and a 63, a 67 American, and a
72 VW Squareback. All three 60's cars were from the Bay Area and the
VW was from Michigan of all places. The VW was the only one that had
any rust, besides the usual exhaust-rot of course. That Michigan rust
was brutal. Never seen anything like that out here. I have a tiny spot of
rust on the tailgate of my GL that hasn't grown in the 4 years I've had it,
and I live about five minutes from the shoreline in San Lo. I will say that
the 4130 cromo bikes I rode when I was a kid would get a fine sheen of
rust on the surface if you didn't take care of 'em, but it was nothing a
little steel wool couldn't take out.
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I've always noticed that a number of the Subes I see at that
JY aren't even from the area, so the rust isn't necessarily from
here. It's weird, I've never noticed any problems with rust around
here before. No wait, Yeeeaaaaah all the cars over at the Haystack
pick-your-part are rusted out. No need for anyone to go there. More
to choose from for me.
Last year I scored a set of polished Premiers off an RX for $60 during
the sale. And just five fingers for a bunch of EGR solenoids.LOL
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They do have a decent selection some times. They go through them
quicker than most yards though, so you need to keep an eye on it.
According to their website the 50% off sale was Aug.11-13. That sucks.
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I've been running an MPFI one in my SPFI for a year or so.
No problems so far.
For Comparison -
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=WT5000&PartType=290&PTSet=A
MPFI
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=GPS&MfrPartNumber=385186&PartType=290&PTSet=A
SPFI ('88-'94)
SPFI ('86-'87 only -referred to as an "Air Charge Tempeperature Sensor")
For some reason they charge almost double for the '88-'94 SPFI version than the '86-'87 version of essentially the same part, just with a diff. connector. Weird.
Edit - I fixed all the links - should work now
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I too have experienced the "clunking" from vertical movement over
speedbumps. Both times it started making the noise it was the ball
joints. It was also made worse by worn struts.
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Would the pads be alright for an SPFI pcv system? I've always contemplated
something like this, but wasn't sure about sucking stuff through.
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I believe they like to cut off the connector, if it's all corroded, and
solder the wires directly to the sensor. Or there is a generic connector
that fits it, I think it was a connector for Bosch fuel injectors or something.
Rallyruss had a part number for it somewhere. I'll see if I can find the old
thread.
Here it is - http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48690&highlight=Coolant+temp
I used some electronics cleaner and a small piece of sandpaper to clean mine off.
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I just put a Sankei in a few weeks ago so I'm clear.
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Right arm! All is well. Thanks bro.
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I stumbled upon this while searching for TSB's. The recall was just
released in Oct. 2005. Fuel-injected only. Something about the 90 degree inlet leaking.
http://199.79.180.163/prepos/files/Artemis/Public/Recalls/2005/E/RCAK-05E065-9626.PDF
http://www.automotive.com/1987/49/subaru/gl/recalls/14972.html
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I was checking my stored codes and all I got
was 6 short blinks. Is this the "OK" code? Or is
that the code that identifies my car (M/T calif.)?
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I found this on Carquest's site a couple of years ago. It's a tech bulletin
about Subaru torn boots. It has part numbers for high-temp silicone boots.
Check it out -
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Does anyone know how high an 87 GL 4wd is supposed to sit?
Height from the ground up or wheel well to axle distance? Or if
nobody knows , then what about the clearance from the top of
the tires to the body.
My 86 used to sit pretty level, but my 87 is kind of low in the front
and kind of high in the back. Like an old "high-rider" from when I was
a kid. I am wondering if the person who owned the car before me
might have put 2wd struts on it. From what I read, in 87 the fronts
on 4wd were longer and the backs shorter. Because of different
mounting points.
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I just ordered an EA82 from them on Friday. It was between CCR and a used
JDM long block. The CCR rebuild was too sweet a deal to pass up. A great
price for an engine rebuilt by a Subaru expert with all OEM parts. You really
can't go wrong IMHO.
By the way, I have put around 30k miles on my engine since I noticed the
bubbling in my overflow. It only progressed into oil in the overflow a week ago.
And it still runs great! Go figure. That's why I've vowed to keep her going as
long as I can. She's a trooper.
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And the winner is CCR!! I figure after replacing all the seals, water pump,
timing stuff, and other junk, it will only be saving me a few hundred if that.
USMB comes through yet again.
Thanks a lot guys.Hey Tim, how are those axles you bought "new" online holding up?
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Hey, I'm trying to decide if I should get a used JDM engine or pay the
extra cash for a CCR rebuild. I figure the CCR will take less time to install
and won't need new seals, timing belts and maybe tensioners, water pump,
etc.. I have to pay someone to do this so labor cost is a big factor. Quality
shops charge around $80-90 an hour around here (CA). My mechanic lets me
provide the parts so that helps with the stuff I'll need for the used engine.
What would you do? Any opinions? I've also been thinking about abandoning
the GL for a Legacy.
Used JDM engine - $600-650 delivered +tax ($55)
CCR Rebuild - $1283 delivered no tax
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The leaking comes from how well the syn cleans the engine. If your engine is full of crap, it might leak more after its cleaned out by the syn. And synthetics have seal conditioners in them to help this not be a big problem.
A guy at AMSOIL told me to use the their less-potent syn. I guess it doesn't have as harsh a cleaning additive in it. From what I know, alot of the rumors of leakage came from older syn's that didn't have the conditioners in 'em. And obviously, how good a condition your engine is in. Mileage isn't always a good way to determine the condition of the engine. How has it been treated throughout its life, ya know?
Rear cargo shade
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
I fixed mine a few years back, I found my old post explaining how I did it.
Here ya go -
It's really easy. Take off the end caps. I used a nail to punch the pins out.Roll it up and throw a rubber band on it. Take some vise grips and twist the spring up nice and snug, don't twist it so much that it breaks the spring. Now with the tension on, have someone hold the vise grips while you put the opposite end cap back on. Once the pin is back in the end cap, you can release the vise grips. Voila!