unverviking
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Posts posted by unverviking
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My cargo cover went limp the other day... it won't retract any more, anyone know of any fix, new spring maybe ?
It's an 01 VDC Outback, in case anyone is wondering...
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Sorry, I thought the year and model was listed in my profile... my bad. But it is an 01 OBW LL Bean VDC.
I called tech support on the trailer box, they were of no help, said if you don't see it on the driver's side, pull apart the passenger side.
I will do that...
Just was hoping to have overlooked it in a pocket or secret compartment or something... lol
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I bought a plug in converter for trailer wiring, the directions say that it is on the left side, from the rear, I pulled everything apart on that side (drivers) and located the wires going to the back, but not the plug that I need to plug in to. I felt along the entire length in the cargo area, no luck. I also followed over to the right side and didn't see anything on that path. I did not pull anything on the right side to look. The only good I got out of it, was I found a little green wire that goes to the antenna box (by clarion) for the window antenna has the sheathing frayed, so I have to tape it off, so it doesn't rub anymore off...
Anyone have any knowledge on where this thing is ??? Please and thank you in advance.
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Parts guy at NAPA today told me he shows 6 quarts as capacity. Love the fact it's a chain, I thought that, but wasn't certain. Love it so far... The 6 is so quiet and smooth. I'm really glad I dumped my 07 Pontiac for it.
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I picked up a 2001 Outback LL bean VDC last night. It has the H6 3.0 and I have a few questions on it. I'm hoping that the motor is not plagued with the 2.5 head gasket issues. My first question is on the Oil Capacity, Whomever had it before me, their mechanic wrote 6 1/4 quarts on the cowl of the engine... I am wondering if that how much it really takes or not ? I really don't want to overfill, or underfill. I'd rather have the right amount when I go to do the job. Lastly, is there anything special that I should be looking out for on this particular model ? Thanks in advance for all the help.
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The drivers-side low beam burned out on my 2003 legacy.
What is the proper OEM replacement bulb that matches the other side? Should i just go in and preemptively replace both sides? Hopefully autozone will have the proper replacements in stock.
thanks!
The bulb is a 55 watt bulb (small) with a wire tailpiece. I've seen them used on fog lights before... I would do both, not a real big hassle, but at least get the 2nd bulb, cuz, you know it'll blow next week on ya...
I was told at Advance Auto Parts (Parts America) that it was a dealer only bulb... LIE. Went to NAPA, they had several in stock, for under 10 bucks. Just in case the "boys" at AZ tell you the same story...
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To see if there is a grounding problem you can measure the difference between the two grounds using a voltmeter. You may need to make a long jumper wire to do the measurement. Just measure the voltage between two known good ground points on the car and the trailer with the lights on. A good connection will show no voltage difference.
Someting I thought of on this... Wouldn't a continuity check (on most volt meters) show a 0 if you were to check between both grounding points ?? Because you're checking from end to end on the wire... Then wouldn't a check on any metal point on both the trailer and car be a 0 in order for the ground to be truly connected ??
I'll have to try this next time I think about it, and have mine hooked up.
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Another tell tale sign of a bad ground issue is if you were to have the Right Turn Signal on , and you could see very slight blinking in the left side as well.
Did you use one of those univeral modules that combine the turn and brake into 1 for the trailer ?? If so, did you run a 12volt line in to it from the battery ?? The one that I installed earlier this year needed a 12volt into it, along with the left turn, right turn, and brake. Working fine.
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Here's a thread where Peaty, a guy who documents everything with pictures, has a few there. You may have to register to see the pictures, but registration is free.
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4039&highlight=knock+sensor
Also I would think Van Bortel in Victor would give you a good price on a knock sensor. I come out that way a few times a year and have often browsed their showroom.
Awesome link, THANKS... VB is famous for great vehicle pricing, but their parts they sell to everyone at FULL Retail... I've been that route with them several times... Always ended up buying online when I needed dealer only parts... Although... I've talked to the parts guy at the "new" Spurr Subaru (alot closer than VB) and they sell for a few percent over whtat they pay, just to get more parts business. I'm leaning to sticking with AZ for now... Their price makes the difference, especially for someone who is on a tight budget...
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Installing the Curtis trailer hitch by myself is a whole different story. Probably the most difficult and physically demanding car repair job I have ever done- even worse than completely tearing apart and rebuilding my '79 Triumph Spitfire!
I have to agree with that... Did one this spring on my 96 Imp OBW. The wiring was the easiest part... 1 of those "universal" modules. Hardest part was running 12 volt line from the battery to the back of the car...
Still better than paying the local trailer hitch dealer $79 to install the $150 hitch and wiring.
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My "adopted" mother in law (wife's best friend's mom) called yesterday, her check engine light came on, and she's due for the wonderful NYS inspection, where it can't have the Check Engine Light on... She came by today, I took it to the local NAPA and they scanned a knock sensor code. In looking at the plugs and wires, they were fair at best... So I replaced them, hoping that maybe the knock sensor code was caused by a misfire by 1 of the plugs/wires. When I drove it there, it seemed a bit hesitant, so I figured that in any event, a new set of plugs and wires wouldn't hurt.
I drove it after replacing the plugs/wires and the positive terminal (fairly badly corroded) and it seemed to run much better, and no hesitation noted.
I pulled the battery to do the plugs on the driver's side, and it reset the light. I drove it about 5 miles, no light. She drove home (~30 miles) it came on within a mile from her house...
I am assuming that the knock sensor threw the code again, and wondering where it is located, so that I can replace it quickly, without having to tear the whole thing apart looking for it...
Last question... Is there any difference in buying one from Auto Zone, NAPA, or the dealer part... They should all be the same... RIGHT ?????
I'm leery about AZ parts (Duralast), I trust NAPA parts (Echlin), and don't want to pay dealer prices... The AZ price is about $76, NAPA $93, dealer... Who knows.
The specifics on the car... 99 Legacy OBW Limited, Auto, A/C, ~85k.
Thanks to all who reply...
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if I remember correctly, in our 01 OBW we had to put a rolled up towel under our baby seat base. My friend who is a professional fireman, and is/was trained at the time in infant seat installation. He said that in many cars like that they needed to have the back boosted on them to fit with the belt properly, and to be leveled correctly. It did take both of us to get it tight enough. We literally had to sit in it and adjust the belt at the same time.
I will say that the new LATCH system is much better. We have it now in our Sonata, it makes installing the seat a whole lot easier. No more needing a 2nd person to sit in the seat while tighting the belt.
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UPDATE
Received the driveshaft back today from Drive Shaft Specialists. I had the car halfway jacked up when the UPS guy delivered it. Had it installed within 45 minutes. Rides great, no more shaking... Now I need to fix the Speedo Cable... Any suggestions ??
More on the driveshaft... They cut off the old yoke ends, and rewelded new ones on with greasable u-joints, installed a new carrier bearing, it was rebalanced, then painted. The 2 day return was worth the $45 extra, especially since it wouldn't have arrived until NEXT Tuesday (5/13) with ground... I checked once it was all back together, all the u-joints are accessable for greasing without pulling anything off.
Overall, I am extremely pleased with this repair. I'm glad that I did this one, it would have been another charge for diagnosis and then the rest... Saved a bunch... I think...
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On my old 93 Legacy L Wagon 2.2, 5MT got 29MPG HWY on a trip with a heavy load in it 1 way... It had about 200k on it on that trip.
My current 96 Imp OBW 2.2, 4EAT got about 28 MPG HWY on a trip with the family and a trunk load of stuff. It was summer and used the A/C. Around town this winter, it got 21-23 MPG. It has 125k on it now. Still a youngin...
Our 01 OBW 2.5, 4 EAT got about 25-6 on the HWY and 19-20 around town. Had 86k on it when we traded it 2 years ago.
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here's the latest...
Called 2 local dealers, 1, quoted me list price $499.99, the other quoted $399.99 as my cost from them. In speaking with him, he searched and found that there wasn't one to be had... and it could be awhile. I worked with 1 other local resource, ultimately they would have to send it to a remanufacturer in California, 2 1/2-3 week turn around time. I also worked with the guys at Driveshaft Specialists (www.thrashdriveshaft.com) they too would need my driveshaft to rebuild it, then send it back. So I boxed it up and sent it away for its trip to Texas for rebuilding...
Now to the rest of my question(s)... I've seen a U-Joint replacement done before... not that big of a deal. What is so difficult about these "stacked in" u-joints that they can't be done locally by someone who does the "normal" kind? I know that in looking around for this, I've not seen 1 "aftermarket" u-joint available for this, so parts availibility is an issue... But there has got to ones available if there is an aftermarket for rebuilt driveshafts, like mine is going to be.
Next question... How much of a difference is there in these driveshafts? I know length, etc. But the 2nd dealer parts guy told me that there are at least 4 different drive shafts used in 96. Is there any difference in the standard Impreza Wagon, and Sedan vs. my Impreza Outback... Is it the larger motor? I've seen that the 1.8l was available in it.
Thanks to all in advance for the replies...
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I bought one from here.....
http://www.thrashdriveshaft.com/
Comes with replacable/greasable U-joints. Price included shipping
Later, Tim
Thanks for the link, I'm gonna give them a call tomorrow when they open up. I like their bio better than the others. They've been in business since 1955, the others didn't say anything about time in business, etc.
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Might have one for you, what length and do you need the front rear or both? I parted a 97 OBS.
From Tip to Tail is measures about 57.5 inches.
Let me know specifics on your's... Mileage most importantly, I'd consider it if it has under 50k or so on it... Otherwise, I'd be in the same boat with something with more mileage than that...
Thanks.
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Might have one for you, what length and do you need the front rear or both? I parted a 97 OBS.
Front side is binding, but would like to replace the whole thing. It's got 125k, and I just started towing a small camper, and hope to keep it for a few more years (towing and all)
About how many miles is/was the one that you have ??
I'll measure tomorrow. It is a 96 Imp OBW
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Looking for a driveshaft for my 96 Imp OBW. Found out this morning that the u-joints aren't replaceable... The dealer is quoting $500 as the list price.
I searched online and found http://www.wholesaleimportparts.com has them for $347 with free ground shipping. Anyone heard of / bought from these guys before ??
Anything specific to look out for in getting one for any other source besides a dealer.
I've been away from the site for awhile, is Subie Gal still selling parts online for the dealer that she works at ?? If so, what is the web address ??
Thanks to all for the assists.
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I've been using Napa GOLD Filters and Oil for years. No problems with any of the cars I've had. Learned from the NAPA guy years ago that the NAPA oil has been Ashland for years, and it was a better grade than the best Valvoline.
I change about 4.5k till 5.0k intervals. Checked the the oil in the Sube tonight, it has about 3500 on it, and still golden...
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I just started pulling my 97 Coleman Laredo Popup (smallest they make) with my 96 Impreza OBW 4EAT 2.2l. (w/125k) It pulls it well.
If memory serves me... The Imp OBW is rated for 1500lbs. My trailer is about 800 tops. We don't load a lot, and normally take 2 vehicles. So I'm not worried about to much since the furthest we'll usually drive is about an hour away. We downsized from the Montana (sucked at towing) to this for the next few years.
We did pull with our larger 01 Leg OBW and it pulled it fine. Didn't even know it was there.
The Montana however, eventhough the trailer is light and it was rated to tow 3500lbs, it SUCKED. It was like I I tied a boat anchor on to the back of it.
So far, I'm impressed with the Impreza, took the trailer in for Inspection and yearly lube and back. Last weekend on the return trip, had all 4 of us in it and was running the A/C... Not a problem at all
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I was finally able to throw a meter on the car this weekend. With it running (obviously) and got 13.2 to 13.4 volts with the A/C cycling.
I'm thinking that is a bit low, but not too bad.
What is the general opinion of the "fellows" of the board ??
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LMDEW...
Does the plug seem to tighten when you are loosening it ? I would think that if it was x-threaded it would feel as if it was tightening again, even though you were loosening it...
Wondering if you tried a piece of rubber hose to attach to the porcelain part and give it a good yank to pull the plug from the head... I was given as a teaser by the local MAC man (years ago) a rubber spark plug remover. I use it all the time when doing my plugs. I used to use a piece of hose, it worked just as well. But it helps in inserting and removing the plugs in these tight situations.
Let us know how you make out...
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I took my 96 Imp OBW thru the car wash this weekend, noticed that the Brake light on the dash was blinking, not full brightness, nut none the less illuminating a bit. There was another light on the dash blinking too, may have been the AT/Oil Temp, but not 100% sure... It too was not fully illuminated...
I know I read recently a thread on something similar, no luck in finding it.
I had the headlights on, and I think I had the A/C on Max, and it was only blinking when the A/C was cycling. My initial thought is alternator (not enough amperage to drive all the electrical stuff while at idle and in the wash...) I've not yet had time to meter out the battery while running to verify 14+ volts... Will do soon. No other symptoms, or occurrances.
Any ideas ??
'04 H6 mpg? looking at buying
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
was surprised this weekend on my trip to get 29 MPG on my 3.0 with 140k on it.