drquasievil
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Posts posted by drquasievil
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I looked for power stearing/alternator/water pump belt at many OEM part sites and found nothing. Other sites like Rockauto I found a brand called Bando. Where can I find an OEM version or is there a better belt. Mine is cracking at the rib end.
1995 Legacy 2.2L
Thanks,
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ok, this is going to sound a bit stupid.........
I had my center console ripped out of my 95 legacy sedan. When i went to reassemble it, I noticed that the bulb for the gear shifter was dead. I wanted to remove it and replace, but I can't get the bugger out. How do I get this thing out?! I assume that I can take it to an auto parts store and show them what needs to be replaced.... however I need to take it out first!
I have the same model and year and I had to replace it too and it was hard to take out. Use a cloth so that if the bulb breaks in your fingers you don't get hurt. I don't remember of it's a push in and twist to get it out or just yank it out type. find out which type of bulb it is, go to a part store and purchase one and you'll see what needs to be done.
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Since everyone is ***************ing, I might as well do to. I use headlights a lot, They shut with the engine so I keep them on. They are not as I have found, daylight running lights. After a few years, I went for inspection and the mechanic told me I needed a bulb, So no choice but to say OK. Two weeks later, The bulb went again, so this time, I bought one only to find out the mechanic didn't change the bulb, it was the connector. Got screwed ( I guess he did since he lost a customer for $14.00). Anyway. both connectors were fried from the heat. I called Subaru and was informed that I needed to replaced the entire assembly at a cost of approximately $400.00. The coglione on the Subaru parts department to quote me that price. So I did what McGuyver would have done, strip the wire, attach it to the bulb, and wrap it.
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It was in the news today that the next tribecca is getting a 3.6L engien that will use regular fuel. It is also getting a new nose that is less "dramatic" and a re design of the rear body. There als has been some tweaking to the seats to make it easier to get to the back seats.
At least subaru is listening,
nipper
That ugly mofo needs more than a little nose job. This is what I would do with that body --------------->
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Sometimes, what problems are you having?
nipper
Poor gas mileage. Obviously the gas gage does not work well. (What a surprise), figure 220 miles before I fill it
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Should the O2 sensor be replaced if the check engine light does not come on? Mine is 95K Miles
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i agree you want to make sure it's not something simple. leaks can be tricky to track down, but it's well worth the effort to avoid a costly repair that was uneccessary. make sure the coolant is full before you start the car and it should be fine to drive. it's cold out, so drive with the heat on high and go easy on it and you should be fine. your temperature gauge will tell you, if it starts drifting up then stop the car immediately. 5 miles shouldnt' be a big deal at all. have some extra coolant with you in case you need to shut the car off, wait for it to cool down, refill and drive again.
will be hard to tell if it was replaced i would imagine. you'd have to get in there and do some close inspection and would need to see something obvious to verify. i do not put it past anyone to charge for something that wasn't done, but there's no way to prove it. of the dozens of water pumps i've done, i've never seen any fail, Subaru OEM or aftermarket cheap-o's, but it could happen.
it could just be leaking at the gasket like someone else mentioned. if it wasn't cleaned well enough or the gasket was contaminated that could have caused it to start leaking prematurely, in this case you'd only need a new gasket not a water pump.
Thanks for your reply...
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95 Legacy 90K Miles
I had Subaru replace the timing belt and water pump at 70K miles, about 4 years ago. I noticed antifreeze leaking from the timing belt cover.
I can't believe that the water pump needs to be replaced again. Do you think it wasn't replaced and charged me for it? Is there a way to tell if it's the original? Also, I need to take it for repair, The drip starts almost immediately after I start the car, can it be driven about 5 miles?
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I have a 95 legacy LS. Looking to add a Block heater. I saw a Subaru part number A0910AS100. Any thoughts? does it work. Are there better out there? how is the installation.
thanks,
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Today I saw a brownies pulling a fairly new Outback sedan. For those not from NYC, brownies are those who work for the city of NY, give tickets and tow anthyng on wheels parked illegally. She had the front of the Sub up and waiting at the light. I was going to let it go thinking maybe she placed the fuse in and disabled the AWD. But then again, I figure she is a brownie I better tell her that she was pulling an AWD and was going to damage it. So I did, she looked at me, said OK, and drove off. I guess I knew that she was going to ignore me. When she drove off only the back wheels were turning.
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a little help here, like model and mileage. What your hearing is the pas wear indicator. They squeel when driving and go away when you break.
The fact that your hearting one and not both may mean you have a sticking caliper.
now for the yelling
ITS THE BREAKS DONT SECOND GUESS.
If you wait for them, to go metal to metal, that can instanly double the cost of a break job.
nipper
95 Legacy 80K Miles. Thanks for the info.
Now for being yelled at:mad:
Can't argue with your assessment.
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I am hearing a noise coming from one of the wheels. Sound goes away when breaking.
Do you think it's the brake guide?
If it is will it ruin the rotor?
If it's the guide, how much longer can I go before metal meets metal?
thanks
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the y-pipe (shaped like a 'y' or a 'v') bolts to the bottom of the engine and extends back to the catatilic converter section of the exhaust (looks like 2 small mufflers). the long pipe then runs back to the muffler and tail pipe at the rear of the car.
the bulky stuff mounted on the y-pipe is/are the heat shield in question. the pipes under neath (inside) the heat sheild are roughly the same diameter as the long pipe that runs to the muffler in the rear. the heat shields get loos and rattle on the pipe inside.
the cat converters look like little muflers and are located in the middle section of the exhaust. they to have heat sheilds but less is talked about them on this forum, so they are probably not the problem. sorry i don't have a picture.
They say pictures are worth a 1000 words. Yours beat that by 5. Thanks,
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Thanks..
Is there a site I can look at a picture?
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When I put the car into drive while standing still I hear a rattle coming from the front. At first I thought it was something loose like the grill or license plate but when I got down under it, it seems as it comes from the lower part of the engine. Any ideas?. Car drives fine otherwise.
Thanks as always.
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CVs can go a surprising distance even when contaminated after a boot splits. I think I drove almost 10K miles on mine. With the bad weather going on, this distance becomes much shorter. If you overdo it, it will require a wheel bearing change if a bad outer CV overheats the bearing.
Check another boot - the one from the steering rack to the hub. This was the source of my rattle/clunk.
Two more questions.
1- Should I replace them both, the other is still good
2- Do I need a wheel alignment after replacement
Thanks,
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CVs can go a surprising distance even when contaminated after a boot splits. I think I drove almost 10K miles on mine. With the bad weather going on, this distance becomes much shorter. If you overdo it, it will require a wheel bearing change if a bad outer CV overheats the bearing.
Check another boot - the one from the steering rack to the hub. This was the source of my rattle/clunk.
Thanks the info JPX
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It sounds like the axle on the front left:-\ Check to see if the boot is torn on the left side. The axle is easy to replace, about an hour. After market replacement axle around $100. Some people say to replace your axles in pairs, I'm not one of them:headbang:
You might check your heat shields on the exhaust system to make sure they have not come loose.
Good luck,
feathesjr
All
I confirmed that the boot is broken on the left side. Beside the rattle is is dangerous driving with it? Does it need to be replaced immediately?
Thanks
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I think that if you change the oil every 3K miles, then Syntetic does not pay for itself. However, If you have multiple cars and tend to forget to change the oil on a regular basis, then Syntetic can save you.
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I have a 95 Legacy LS with 80+K miles. When making a left turn and accelerating, I hear a rattle noise. I did a few 360 turns both left and right and no rattle. I have 4 new tires. Help please.
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Okay, so the manual says I need the Scantool to read the code and I don't have the money to buy one. Does anyone know how much it might cost in Cdn $$ to find out just what the problem is?
I've removed the battery posts in the hope that the light would go away but alas, it didn't. Any ideas?
Thanks to those-who-know!
There are auto part stores that scan for free. Why do they do that? Because they hope to get the sale of the part. Go to the big stores.
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I don't want or need racing or high end pads. Are the dealer OEM pads good, and a good value? If not, which reasonably-priced, quality pads would you recommend for my 'daily driver'
I used non original but good quality breaks. The car does not break the same. I vote for originals.
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Thanks very much, why is important run the engine (with the car stopped) for 15 minutes? when i connect this morning i drive 10 minutes to work and all OK.
Thanks again!
It gives the computer time to check all sensors and tunes itself again. Then when you drive it, the computer starts to learn your driving pattern.
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Just purchased a used 95' Legacy LS last night. The only repairs that I need to make (as of now) appear to be the drivers side window (haven't pulled it appart yet to see) and the electric antanna on the drivers side rear fender has been snapped off.
Can I replace it with a stationary one? And either way, how would I go about replacing it?
thanks in advance
I purchased a non original mast and had broblems with it so I returned it. I ordered an original online for about 35.00 and is working great. It's easy to install it too.
Drive belt PS/ALT/WP
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Thanks, Great advice.