mightGETaSUBARU
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Posts posted by mightGETaSUBARU
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I see what you are saying but I also doubt that is the issue if it was running fine before changing valve covers.... Also we just replaced the TPS a few months ago.... after that it idled great and ran even better
O2 sensor is not used except for cruise and idle..... narrow band sensor.....can't hurt to replace it if it's bad though.
Check the vacuum routing to the manifold/atmospheric pressure sensor and switching solenoid is correct and make sure the switching solenoid works and the sensor is reporting correctly (18 - 24 in/Hg) at idle.
Check for signal dropouts in the TPS. A graphing meter helps for this but you can do I with an analog meter too. Digital is useless for testing these.
GD
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Waste of money buying autolite plugs for that engine.
Get a set of NGK plugs.
I totally agree... I told him(Johnny) buy NGK plugs and the worthless parts jokey sold him Autolites... I told him get NGK plugs they just plain work...He thinks the guy at Autozone is a doctor...
I explained to him...
The doctor is the mechanic who works on your car, he prescribes parts for the repair and makes the repair (I was a mechanic for a well known Porsche repair and performance shop)
the pharmacist is the autoparts store's computer... and it aint always right, the pharmacist's assistant is the worthless parts jokey... who likely knows nothing about diagnosis
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I know the rear o2 sensor is broken... rumor has it that platinum plugs do not like it when the fuel mix is not perfect.... can anyone confirm this?
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it's same as it was, idles ok, its the quick blips that make it stutter
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I have a higher mileage 1998 Legacy Outback (2.5DOHC)that has about 313,500 miles on the clock... it used to be mine, but I have recently gifted it to a friend
Valve covers where leaking like a sift... so I changed them
It ran smoothly before this, nice crisp throttle response.
The new owner purchased Autolite Platinum AP3924... I checked the gap, looked good, I know you should not adjust the gap on platinum plugs.... But I still carefully check them, I have found a bad one once before
I typically run NGK BKR5E11
I did not replace the wires as the car was running fine at the time
it's a slight stutter off the line, seems fine as the car gets past the blip, it also seems to buck a little bit if you blip the throttle while parked...
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The poor car did have an oil leak... I wonder if oil got in the connection coming off the trans...???
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Could it be that o just beat the life out of it?
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Im great at soldering. But sadly this didn't work... i drove it earlier... it wouldn't shift nor would the speedo work... then a few seconds later everything worked great...
Then on the highway the transmission shifted great but I had no speedo meter
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I have put a lot of miles on my 1998 Outback... it at 313,000 as of a few days ago. The weird thing is from time to time the speedometer won't work... and sometimes when that happens the transmission won't shift past 1st gear. Normally hitting the gauge cluster will cause the Speedometer to start working...(sometimes it won't help) normally this will cause the transmission to hunt for its gear (engine revs until it shifts) then it runs fine...
This has been going on for about the last 115,000 miles
Ideas please?
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well now that the sun is out it was EASY to figure out... the starter relay wire came loose and was just hanging there
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Auto trans or manual?
There is an interlock relay somewhere under the dash for the starter.
Auto trans, did you try starting in neutral?
Manual trans has a funny issue with the clutch start switch where if you don't push the clutch pedal far enough it may not properly ground the interlock relay. Then you get no power to the starter solenoid.
Another option is just the contacts in the starter are worn out. But you will at least still get a "click" from the solenoid as it engages.
Auto trans
I did try neutral
if the contacts are worn out wouldn't it give some early warning like slow starts?
It does not even click at all, it's like the starter is not even there electrically
I am heading back out to the church today armed with a test light, a 10 gauge jumper wire, digital volt/ohm meter, and at the bare minimum that should get me home
another thing I noticed is a few weeks ago the key I usually use kept getting stuck in the ignition, I also noticed that the ignition switch felt a little wobbley however my spare key does not get stuck so I doubt it is related...
is there a FUSE for the starter?
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so I got out of church tonight (yes it's friday night) and the Subaru would not start... it would not turn over at all
I can hear the fuel pump, hear a relay on the passenger side kick panel area, the voltage is about 12.5 and does not drop when the key is turned
Any ways I need to figure this out... is there a relay or fuse associated with the starter?
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ok so I have a parts wagon, an 1996 legacy wagon with a working 5spd manual... nice nearly new WRX lowering struts and springs... also has a 300 HP built up 2.2 turbo... however I don't get the engine, its going into my friend's 1968 Porsche 912, wide body and whale tail...
anyways, I release he trans and other stuff will just bolt up, BUT what about the ECU? throwing codes, ect... is it possible to make the auto ECU play nice with a manual trans?
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why not just install a real transmission, like a manual
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MUCH better, smooth/predictable shifts and trims are no worse than +/- 11% not perfect but not too bad
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well I checked the manifold ground point, its not even tight.... man how did i miss that? going for a drive, cross your fingers
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I agree, I think its ECU related, bu I have cleaned and reseated the harness connectors several times, NO JOY
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I thought 96 and 97 were also OBD2?
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maybe the 99 obw. / GT. / L
certainly the 98 GT and lego L
but absolutely not the 95 - 97 anything.
what is wrong with your car?
what are you trying to do ?
I actually have a post up with the symptoms, anyways it all started after a head gasket job, I had disconnected all the main plugs, ecu to engine
erractic shift points, maxing out fuel rims, rough idle,
however about 2000 miles ago I reconnected the fuel pressure regulator, in the process I bumped the harness plugs and it ran great for about 2000 miles... now its doing it again, the fact that is started working when I happened to jostle the harness tells me something happened there
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1998 Legacy Outback wagon,which ecu/engine wiring harnesses will interchange?
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ok I need some help, I am loosing my mind here, I can no afford all the extra fuel costs, and I can not afford to take the car in
I replaced the front o2 sensor, but it did not help
so here is my QUESTION:
What can cause ALL these problems???
erratic shift points and shift 'hardness' or softness (automatic)
stutters at idle
maxed out fuel trims
fluttering/rough idle
12-15 mpg
no codes
at other times running just fine, with mid 20s on fuel mileage and smooth shifting
my gut is now telling me the ecu/engine harness is buggered up some how.
slight miss after changing valve covers and plugs
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Plugs... passenger side rear the ceramic insulator cracked and fell off... new NGKs are running great