GlenSz
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Posts posted by GlenSz
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hey old gen friends,
recently came back to my wagon parked on the street here in New York City and found my driver side corner light smashed, so looking for a replacement.
Also been hearing some grinding in the front end on the passenger side. I need to track down a complete front passenger side wheel assembly (bearing, hub, spindle).
If anyone has these parts for sale, please let me know, I need the corner light to pass inspection which is coming up soon and from the sound of things, also need to replace the front passenger side wheel assembly ASAP as well.
thanks,
Glen
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picked up a great '87 GL wagon with only about 30k miles on it last winter.
engine was pretty clean, no real fluid leaks, was working great till a couple months ago.
when i started her up cold, and just pulled away from the curb, she wouldn't shift into 2nd gear unless i let her warm up a little, and run through the gears a couple times while still parked. after that, she'd shift fine and the problem wouldn't happen again till she's parked and cold.
this car's body is in pretty good shape, has manual locks and windows and runs great otherwise, sans some front end alignment that needs to be adjusted and i hope to drive her into the next century so really looking at getting to the bottom of this.
seems like the trans fluid isn't circulating until it's warmer and thinner, possibly?
gonna drain it and put in a new filter and new fluid,
WHAT TYPE AND HOW MUCH, EXACTLY, do you use?
maybe as treatment fluid of some kind can be added w/ the new fluid?
heard a few different answers and suggestions, but can always count on the USMB for delivering the best advice.
thanks,
Glen.
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what's your plan with them? find um on craigslist?
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'94 Loyale 3AT 4WD wagon - 143K
'89 GL manual 4WD touring wagon - 131K
'87 DL 3AT FWD wagon - 29K !!!! original miles!!!!!!! <----- gonna send a kid i don't even have yet to college (if he's lucky) in this one
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i've got a '94 3AT 4WD Loyale, and i need a trailing arm bushing too, same part numbers?
also, trying to get my hands on an entire rear cross-member. part # for that?
thank guys
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i bought a used retractable cargo cover for the trunk area of my Loyale wagon last here on the USMB and recently it stopped retracting and i can't figure out how to get it working again. i didn't want to take it apart first, in fear i might break it trying before relying on the past experience of other USMB members.
tips?
or if you have another one i can buy, i'm interested, any color, EA82 cargo covers are pretty universal?
thanks,
Glen
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i got the same problem, i'll try this...it probably won't hold in the weather, @175eya, haha, how you doin?
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He is saying that you have not listened to the advice that any of us have given you. We have told you from the beginning what the problem was with you car, and you haven't done anything we have suggested, instead you want to throw money at it for other items, that still won't fix the original problem.
actually, i've only been trying to execute my original plan (minimal lift and some bigger wheels), and made some mistakes along the way. decided having a lift kit in in general wasn't worth it for me, considering it wouldn't be useful to me 9 months outta the year, so instead of putting it back in the right way, decided to just keep the pugs on. my rusting crossmember was a previous condition that i only spent a little on to repair, because at that point in this process, no advice was given on that issue because i never mentioned it was a problem till i had rear alignment concerns, and i thought locating a better one and replacing it was gonna be much more work than just repair my current one. i also wanted to replace the suspension which i knew from the beginning when i bought the car was bad, so i replaced the struts, and wanted to do the coilsprings, which gives me a little bit of an increased lift without putting the kit back in and a better ride in general. i also had a little rusting around the rear wheel wells, so taking off the mudflaps and cutting out some and patching w/ diamond plate was something i thought about doing anyway, and again, not very expensive.
all in all, hindsight is 20/20 and it sucks to have decided to try to do these mods w/out any real experience, for the sake of something i use my subes for only 3 months outta the year. bottom line, it's gonna perform best for normal road and highway use at stock, but after going to all the trouble, at least keeping the pugs on it and getting the alignment right would have me satisfied, but it's just been a pretty frustrating process to not only not get the results i want, but also to think about how if i would have just left it alone, i would be better off now, and have not spent a dime. at least my suspension is better and i can get back a little of what i put out for the kit.
and don't get me wrong, i appreciate everyone's advice here, especially those who've spent a considerable amount of time earnestly advising my on my situation, thanks @Loyale2.7Turbo
i just was reporting on the situation as it's progressed over the last few months and much of the advice on this thread has come after i've already gone past a certain point.
not really sure what else to say.
thanks again?
Maybe you'll find my question Foolish, but still I'll let it Go:
Have you "Moved" (driven) your Subaru after the Front suspension changes?
Because if it is still in the Place where you mounted, it could seem to keep the Camber issues.
The Wheels will move to a more "Confortable" position after the car is driven a Little.
Those are Words of Wisdom...
... Be Careful!Why don't you post here Photos of your "Welding Together" job on the Rear Suspension?
So we could tell you if your Subie became a Risk on your Safety...
Maybe is good Idea to Sell the Lift Kit in order to get healthy, unwelded the Rear Suspension parts for your Subie.
Kind Regards.
This thread is full of OP fail…...
ALLLLLL of the answers/advice are HERE IN PLAIN TXT…..
Natural selection…...
$0.02
Spencer
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This thread is full of OP fail…...
ALLLLLL of the answers/advice are HERE IN PLAIN TXT…..
Natural selection…...
$0.02
Spencer
???
OP fail?
not sure i understand your 2 cents.
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Maybe you'll find my question Foolish, but still I'll let it Go:
Have you "Moved" (driven) your Subaru after the Front suspension changes?
Because if it is still in the Place where you mounted, it could seem to keep the Camber issues.
The Wheels will move to a more "Confortable" position after the car is driven a Little.
Those are Words of Wisdom...
... Be Careful!Why don't you post here Photos of your "Welding Together" job on the Rear Suspension?
So we could tell you if your Subie became a Risk on your Safety...
Maybe is good Idea to Sell the Lift Kit in order to get healthy, unwelded the Rear Suspension parts for your Subie.
Kind Regards.
yeah, drove it a little bit w/ the Tempo coils in and i'm gettin some noises that sound like the axles cranking as well as the rougher, more boucey ride. here's a link to the pics of the crossmember repair: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20frame%20repair?sort=2&page=1
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Couple things. First, you're frustrated about what's not working out and you're shotgunning solutions at them without thinking. That's just going to lead to more aggravation. You're already using the sunk costs argument to justify throwing more good money after bad and still not fixing the problems.
Second, you've got a serious safety issue from the sounds of it in the rear suspension. You described it at positve camber. That would be the tops of the wheels leaning out \ /. Negative camber is the tops leaning in / \. Negative camber in the rear and a rusty rear crossmember usually means only one thing, the crossmember is folding up as its structure is failing. This can happen lift or no lift, it's a rust thing. And it's dangerous because if it tears off the wheel will cock over one way or the other and you will likely loose control and either go into oncoming traffic or off the side of the road.
And finally 3rd. Springs won't stop rubbing. At full bump on compression the strut will still bottom out at the same point, it will just take a harder bump to get it there. Since it can still compress to the same place, the tire will still rub. This is the point of the lift blocks that move the whole strut assembly down, now the maximum stuffed position of the wheel is however many inches you lift block is further down out of the wheel well so it won't rub. Struts also don't change the ride height as they wear out, the car just bounces around more.
Too stiff springs will make the car ride like a brick and keeping the suspension mostly extended all the time means there isn't any downtravel or droop left so the strut topps out frequently and that is bad for it and harsh on the ride plus reduces control. Bad things all the way round. If you cut coils off the springs, it will make them even stiffer, but it will drop your ride height. The tempo springs are for cars with a heavy front bumper/winch/engine/skidplates ect which is overloading the stock springs and making them sag.
If you want this car right, you need to replace the rear crossmember with a good used one first. Then, put the stock springs back on. Then, put the lift blocks back in the right way so your camber is correct and you get no rubbing. These are all projects you can do with cheap hand tools from harbor freight. Get jackstands and use them.
not sure you saw the pics of the rear crossmember that's now repaired by welding in new piece of pipe that's was slightly smaller in diameter and shoved inside the rusting ends of either side of the crossmember. so that safety issue is not longer a concern.
i'm more worried about the negative camber of the rear wheels and the positive camber in the front that came from the new Tempo coil springs i put in cause i couldn't find original subaru ones.
not only is the ride very bouncy (which i don't mind) but i'm riding more on the outside edge of the tire and it sounds like i've got some strain on the axels cause there's rhythmic clicking when i'm turning around corners.
definitely gonna put the stock ones back in, even if they're not perfect.
i really just want to find someone that can help me do the alignment right, so the camber is the same and at 0 degrees, back and front, and i'll be happy to just drive it as is, even i have new struts all around, but the same coils all around.
i'm not getting any rubbing anymore with the wheel-well mods and the new struts.
i'm almost considering putting my 13" stock wheels back on during the rest of the year when i'm not using my 4WD/off-road beach permit.
probably want to keep on the pugs i went to all the trouble to get, but will probably also want to sell the lift-kit to someone on here that wants it, since i took it out and am very hesitant to put it back in since i don't really need it even when i'm in the sand on the beach. if i put it back in, it would be almost entirely for aesthetic reasons.
guess tracking down a set of front and rear coil springs from another EA82 is gonna be tough, even on here. i'll definitely do a post looking for another mechanic in my area that's maybe got their own garage and a history of experience w/ these older subies.
i can leave it with them and use my '88 toyota all-trac wagon, my "beater", so there's no rush and it's finally done right.
I Agree with WoodsWagon.
Also, about this:
Very kindly let me tell you that I drive my 2" lifted 1985 Subaru EA82 "BumbleBeast" Wagon, with beefy 25" tires as daily driver (since years ago) during week days; and as offroading machine during weekends; and I will Never go back to Stock suspension, Never.
My Subie feels identically safe and Handles the Same than it used with Stock height; but beefier tires and stiffer suspension added more "Sporty" Control to it; because the Lift kit keeps the Stock Geometry, while the Stiffer Springs I used were from used cars at a Junk Yards; so they are not as stiff as Brand New ones.
Very Respectfully let me Suggest you an Idea: if you could not lift nor align your subaru properly... Why don't you take it to a "Professional" USMB member who could help you?
I Bet that more than one USMB Member will be Glad to do that Lift / Alignment job with You...
I would help you if I wouldn't live so far away...
Good Luck,
Kind Regards.
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I Agree with WoodsWagon.
Also, about this:
Very kindly let me tell you that I drive my 2" lifted 1985 Subaru EA82 "BumbleBeast" Wagon, with beefy 25" tires as daily driver (since years ago) during week days; and as offroading machine during weekends; and I will Never go back to Stock suspension, Never.
My Subie feels identically safe and Handles the Same than it used with Stock height; but beefier tires and stiffer suspension added more "Sporty" Control to it; because the Lift kit keeps the Stock Geometry, while the Stiffer Springs I used were from used cars at a Junk Yards; so they are not as stiff as Brand New ones.
Very Respectfully let me Suggest you an Idea: if you could not lift nor align your subaru properly... Why don't you take it to a "Professional" USMB member who could help you?
I Bet that more than one USMB Member will be Glad to do that Lift / Alignment job with You...
I would help you if I wouldn't live so far away...
Good Luck,
Kind Regards.
I would love to take it to someone on here that was a "professional" mechanic who had lots of experience w/ older subies, but where i am in Brooklyn, and the East Coast in general, i've found only a few members that even live around here, let alone are real mechanics. i already did the oil pump and successfully eliminated my TOD thanks to the help of @175eya (take a look at the thread i posted w/ the pics http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/)
He's the closest i've come to finding another member around here that's a mechanic. Thanks Steve, you've been really helpful.
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so here's the latest on my lift sitch:
decided to not put it back in, even if i now know that the front strut blocks were in backwards and if switched would have reduced the negative camber situation because if feel like even though i think it might not ever return to it's original state before i started attempting all these mods, taking it further and further away from stock would only reduce it's life-span as an everyday driving car.
sure i want it to perform better than an average car, or what i mean is i want special performance when using it (even if only rarely, probably less than 5% of it's overall use) for it's 4WD capability so i can qualify for this permit i need to drive on the sand/beach to go to a fishing spot i like, but i want to keep it in the best condition for daily use, which i figured a lift kit would detract from.
plus, i'm gonna sell the lift kit on here to recoup some of what i spent in this evolving saga. it's an interesting tale at this point.
after taking out the lift, and regain some more positive camber, the 15" pugs w/ 205/75 tires on it were rubbing real bad, so first i tried taking of the the mud flaps and banging some stuff outta the way in the front wells, then finally resorting to cutting a bit out and patching it up w/ diamond tread, but still got a lot of rubbing, particularly bad w/ the all the rough road surfaces here. http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20Camber%20Issues
also, the alignment was pretty off, the camber in the front and back being very different, and i think putting in the back strut spacer put a lot of stress on the rear cross members which were rusting and crumbling away on the ends where the where the outter arm assembly connects. so i reinforced those by getting a pipe slightly smaller in diameter welded in on both sides. take a look at the before and after pics: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20frame%20repair
then, i brought it back to the place i bought the set of used tires and thought maybe i could get a smaller set w/ the same width, and they said it was my soggy front suspension, which i already knew was kinda shot, especially on the driverside, worst on the front driverside.
so i replaced the struts all around, but not the coils, which i couldn't find as easily.
still, tons of rubbing, but thought new struts would be good anyway, so wasn't too upset, but still frustrated w/ the rubbing which by that point was shredding the tires a bit on the edges. so i brought i back to the used tire place, showed them i redid the struts and said there was still too much rub, so they agreed to let me switch down to a set of 205/65's (for free, no charge even though the 75's were a little damaged) which were much better tires, seemingly, and closer to a matching set of 4, with only one being a different tire from the rest. http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20Tires
these smaller tires finally eliminated virtually all rubbing issues. i think the extra lift from the new struts and the cutting from the wells also helped.
the final thing was to do the coil springs, cause the front left coil spring definitely was more compressed than the passenger side, maybe from the previous bad front driverside strut, which was definitely the weaker of the two.
since i already did the struts all around and didn't need the whole suspension assembly (i looked for them used at a number of junk yards in my area and literally got laughed at when i said, "'94 tempo" so i figured i'd order the Napa (rather than stiffer and more progressive MOOG version) ones brand new which only cost about $80 for the set.
but now that they're in, they've raised the front almost as much as the lift did (no turns were removed from the coils) and the camber is at a pretty negative degree in the front, whereas the back seems to be almost positive to excess.
i wanted to get new coils all around and finally get it all aligned (found a good alignment shop that i can bring it to w/ the special instructions for doing the back w/ a piece of wood now that the crossmembers are reinforced and can take the bending and won't just toe the front) so i'd have new full suspension, all around, decent tires on the pugs w/ plenty of space so there'd be no rubbing, but these coils are pressing the wheels down too much and i'm about ready to put the old springs back in, and forget doing the coil springs and just get it aligned and be done with it all.
any suggestions on finding front and back coil springs? even a used set from another EA82 that doesn't have a mooshy driver side one, as a possibility?
2 steps forward, 1 step back. at least theres some progress, i just don't want to do any more harm than i've already done taking her outta stock.
thoughts?
looking better at least?
-Glen
I Agree with El Presidente and Bratman 18, they were installed Backwards.
You need to turn those Strut Blocks 180º and re-install them...
Why don't you try that and let us Know the results?
Kind Regards.
^What he said. Like I said, you need them put on so that the top of the strut is pushed towards the center of the car. You had them put on so they were pushed out away from the car. You had them backwards and that was your problem. Install them the other way and your camber will be much better!
To clarify, that is %100 backwards. The bottoms should be towards the center of the car and the tops wider, like this \\ //. It seems backwards, but its not. By putting them on correctly, your pushing the strut straight down...the way you have it, your pushing the strut down and out, giving you bad camber.
If you put them in right, along with the rest of the lift, it will have normal camber and handle well on-road. If you have a 2" lift you don't need cross member drops, but it helps. I've run 2" lifted ea82's with no cross member drop as daily drivers just fine. If its a 3" lift, you really only need to drop the front cross member 1" and leave the tranny/radius mounts alone.
Back to the spring issue...just put that aside for now. You really only need different springs for special circumstances, and your isn't one of them. If you need new ea82 springs, go to orielly's and get new or take some off a gently used jy car, but start with new struts. I know you don't have a lot in the junkyards out there, but some one on the board could help you out. If your running 26-27's tires on a no-lift ea82, your gonna rub..thats life. If you don't want it to rub, put a lift on, or take the tires off, but don't expect new springs to help.
Josh
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The link says:
The Kit seems very Complete and well built.
According to that, it included the Crossmember Blocks, so...
Did you installed them along the Strut top Blocks?
when i first got the kit, it only had the crossmember blocks and the rear drop brackets.
i emailed the guy and he said he forgot to include the crossmember blocks, which he sent a week later. but they were never installed before i removed the lift.
still haven't gotten the 6 trans blocks either.
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You mounted them between the coil and the strut?? They are supposed to be bolted to the top of the strut mount, and then is bolted into the car. And this can be done with very simple hand tools. They are definitely built to be put in only one way, and when installed that way, your camber should be pretty much dead on, or as close as it ever was before the lift.
Sorry, but I had to facepalm, if the Blocks really were installed as you stated, between the Coil's top and the Strut.
Bratman 18 already wrote how they should be installed, between the Subaru Body and the top of the Strut.
Let me Search a Photo for you...
haha, sorry guys, wrote that wrong, i'm pretty green, but not that retarded.
they were at the top of the strut and coil, bolted in to the body w/ everything underneath.
sorry, was unclear.
but look how there were mounted in the photo, tops pointed in towards the middle, like this: // \\
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Your Front Strut Blocks,
(let me post your Photo here, from the link you gave)
Is hard to be 100% Sure with a Photo, but Seems like they have some Degree / Difference between the Alignment of the Upper Holes and the Lower Holes, and thus means that they're intended to be Mounted in certain position to allow a Camber Correction, so if you mounted them Backwards, the Camber goes to the Wrong side.
If that's true, it Explains the Camber issues you had.
Why don't you Try to mount them in the Other direction?
Kind regards.
mounting them involved a lot of tools i didn't have, like to squeeze them in btwn the top of the coil and strut, so i had to bring them to my mechanic who helped, but still charged me. so reversing them, after taking them out, just to possibly find out the camber will still be off seems like a gamble.
definitely a degree difference btwn the top and bottom holes. the guy i bought the kit from said he forgot to make them "left" & "right" which means one side was supposed to go one way, and same for the other.
i'm having difficulty figuring out how mounting them differently would allow for camber correction though.
sorry, just showing my lack of experience here.
thanks for your repeated insight, it's very much appreciated.
-glen
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You should take pics of the lift blocks and we can tell you how they shohld have gone. Unless they weren't camber correct and they really did just drop everything straight down.
here's a link to some pics of the blocks and how they were installed: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/2%20inch%20Lift%20kit%20and%2015%20inch%20Pugs
i'm guessing they were camber correct and just dropped everything straight down, which would account for why the wheels pushed in at the bottoms.
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Your 2" lift blocks were in backwards, that's why you had bad camber. If you put them back in correctly, you'd be just fine daily driving it. What wheels you run willn't have any affect on the camber either. The lift doesn't have anything to do with camber in the back and is likely from bent trailing arms...Note how the instructions for adjusting the camber involve a long piece of wood as a lever..(aka bending it back). As far as taking it to a shop to align it, don't do it, its a huge waste of money. All the shop will adjust is the front toe(and thats it in the front!), which isn't hard to do yourself, and tell you to get new trailing arms in the rear, because very very few shops will attempt to adjust/bend the rear trailing arms... If you take it to a shop with the lift in, they'll just tell you to take it out because its in backwards..if they'll even touch it with a lift on it for legal reasons.
The big problem with lifting the front with springs in an ea82 is that you will lose a lot of down travel, not to mention you will have bad positive camber from it(again). If you want to keep the tires out of the fenders, do it right with blocks. You really only need tempo springs if you have winches and bumpers up front...You dont even need bigger springs for an EJ, just get new stock ones.
Josh
hey Josh,
Thanks for the info. I already took out the lift kit cause the camber on the front was killing my tires and axels. ripped the passenger-side boot within the first day.
The kit i ordered used blocks for the front. i just needed info about the coils, cause after taking out the kit and leaving on the 15" pugs and 205/75 tires, i was getting tons of rubbing cause my suspension in front especially, but all around anyway, was in pretty bad shape, before putting in the kit to begin with, so i did the struts in the front and back, but couldn't find the coils for the front, so went looking for alternatives. running the shotty driver-side strut in front for so long caused the coil to weaken a lot, so that made the rubbing particularly bad on that side.
i'm gonna probably bring it back to the used tire place and try to swap them out for 205/70's, just to eliminate some of the rub cause now that it's settling, the rubbing is worse, even after cutting out a significant part of the wells.
again, really wish i could go back to before having tried to put in the lift, cause the she was running great w/ the stock 13's and still had the mudflaps and entire well. but after going outta my way to get the pugs and matching lugs from Dan in Sacramento (costing more than the rims themselves from the boneyard i got them from, thanks again @rrgrr) i want to leave them on, even if it means redoing my suspension, which needed to be done eventually anyway.
also wish i could have the lift in there w/ out the camber issues, despite my daily-driving needs, cause it would definitely eliminate all the rubbing issues i have now w/ the bigger wheels.
guess it's the price i pay for attempting these type of mods.
also still can't wrap my head around why the front blocks, if switched, wouldn't create the same camber issues. or why they need to be the opposite of the way they were. it just looks like they'd be pushing down the springs even further if they went in the way everyone is saying they should be put in, which would make the camber problem worse.
should i just get a jacked up jeep? hahah, definitely JUST KIDDING! would never want and SUV over my subie
-g
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Dear Glen,
Many thanks for your Kind words, which are Highly appreciated.
Follow the Rear Alignment Procedures:
Kind Regards.
Wow! amazing, this is very very helpful, i'm really excited you could share this. like i said, you're a real value to the USMB.
just one question: this says, "Loyale 2.7 Turbo" on the bottom of the diagram. will this be the same for my '94 Loyale 4WD (3AT) Wagon?
and is it from the Haynes maintenance & repair manual?
-g
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Yes, you're Right.
My "BumbleBeast" rides also with 15" wheels but only 25" tires which are Ideal for Mixed Driving.
It has a 2" SJR Lift + Tempo coils on the Front, and my own 2" lift on the Rear (As described on the Writeup) the Ride is Stiff for a Family Wagon but it can Handle the Huge Loads I need to move + 5 people on our Family "Mountain Adventure" Trips, offroading on Weekends without issues, nor tire rubbings; while it handles awesome as Daily Driver during Week Days.
Kind Regards.
so after a little closer reading of your post (compliments, btw, on your really thorough research, testing, documentation and sharing, you're a real asset to our subie community!) i figured i'd give the Napa coils a shot, cause it was the MOOG CC854 and especially the progressive CC856 coils that would be too stiff, if they were brand new, not necessarily the napa version. also, there's a napa around the corner from my apt. and they said they could get them in in a day or so and they were only $60 & change for the front pair, plus shipping. the MOOG versions were like $120, even though they were available immediately. in the meantime, i live near a bunch of junkyards and the NYC mecca of yards, Willet's Point, which i'm sure i could find them at, so if so, i'll probably get the whole GEN2 94'Tempo front strut assembly (probably for about $50 total for both, depending on how much i feel i searching and bargaining) and use the used coils off them, as you did.
then after that, i'll finally be ready for a proper alignment, which i hope solves my dissimilar front and rear wheel camber issues.
is there some sort of adjustment bolt or something i can try to do on my own first? i just did the rear struts and it didn't help it any. i thought maybe the new strut w/ an increased height would push down the wheel and axle and therefore have the top of the wheel inside the well stick out a little bit further. but as it sits now, the top of the tire doesn't even extend past the edge at the top of the well.
could some of this positive camber be ok if it's just on the back wheels? the front are perfectly straight now.
thanks again for the suggestions and advice.
-Glen
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FWD or 4WD Loyale ? Do you US guys actually have Loyale badges on the bodywork ? We don't down south.
2WD rear ends are different to 4WDs and would get different attention.
Sedans don't have suspension bump stops like the wagons do - other than the ones fitted to the rear shock shaft, crumble and disintergrate over the years. I found factory sedan rear shocks to have 9.5mm spring wire diameter, RX 4WD sedan 10.5mm and wagons 11 or 11.5mm
4WD wagon springs in a 4WD sedan rear were too high, too bouncy, threw away my 9.5 FWD rear coils before I got a chance to try as at the time was hoping to lower my rear of 4WD sedan, looked at the spring and thought it to be the same (did not measure wire thickness at the time
)I am now content with factory height of the RX spring in the rear. You can play with the different coil seat to bottom bolt hole differences to get different heights and ride. Three different ones came on EA82 models
My Loyale is a 4WD / 3AT.
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Maybe you can find some Useful Ideas on This Writeup:
Kind Regards.
wow, that's some intense research. i guess the 94 tempo's coil springs would be too stiff if i bought them brand new if i'm just looking for regular street-driving ones, not intended for heavy off-roading.
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need '87 DL wagon corner light and passenger side front wheel assembly
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Matt,
thanks, the corner lamp has been pretty tough to track down here on the east coast, would be great if you have one.
with the passenger side front wheel assembly, it's probably just the bearing, but had some difficulty in the past w/ don't just the bearing, and not the hub as well. figured the spindle might come with it, and would rather not chance it and generally make it easier to replace.