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hp_pants

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Posts posted by hp_pants

  1. Hi guys thanks for your replies,the car has a turbo back decat exhaust,the front manifold & uppipe are factory which it had when i got the car,when i was checking the pcv i checked the hoses including the intercooler hoses i havent checked the inlet yet.it hs a forge d.v. on it again was on car from when i got it i have got a standard one i think il try swapping that. it idles fine the only thing i'l ad is when i got the car when i started it cold or hot it would idle around 750rpm even on really cold days now on cold start the idle starts at 1500rpm+ then slowly drops as the car warms up.the plugs have been changed the last time couple of months back while it had this prob they looked normal.oh & the vacum was steady.

    i must say this forum is the best one ive been on ive nown about it since i got my car as ive used the diagrams in opposed forces,but im also a member of a couple of others & you beat them hands down.thanks again for all the replies.

    Yeah, this forum seems more laid back-it's not filled with idiots calling each other N00B and demanding that someone search...

  2. This may be a combination of things. Vac gauge will also give you an idea of engine compression,

     

    Hrmm .. i wonder... Maybe we are barking up the long tree. A dying fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator can cause these issues and wont throw a code.

    Which would mean a lean mixture vs a rich mixture. Yeah, if there was a way for him to check his afr-tailpipe sniffer, etc.. 

  3. yes i agree that the turbo with over hundred thousand miles on it will be worn,&  if the problem started a bit different to how it did i would be more inclined to investigate  mechanical parts.ok today a used one of them elm 327 devices after eventually getting the software for it i got a few logs il try & put them up on hear,there's one thing that is bothering me on the o2'sensors i dont get no info on o2 1-1  then i get voltage on o2 1-2 which for what i can gather the o2 1-1 would mean bank1 sensor 1 & o2 1-2 would be rear sensor could someone confirm this please?but o2 1-1  which is new if that is the first sensor & im getting no readings have i got a knackered new sensor or more likely is there a wiring fault to this sensor? any thoughts on this?

    still dont get any cel codes & did speak to the place wear i brought the o2 from & was told he had never nown of a new denso sensor being faulty,so tommorrow im gonna try 7 test the wiring to sensor anyone no of the best way to go about this?& do a vac test too. Thanks to all.

    yeah you would think there would be a CEL....try to pop off the air intake and at least rule the turbo out, too....

  4. I'm going to sit back and listen on this one, as it has been a while since I have a turbo to diagnose. Intermittent can be a pain. to diagnose. But lets get a real vac gauge on there just to check out the basics. No need to drive with it connected as we are looking for responses with the car just running in the driveway.

    well, because I am a turbocharger rebuilder, it's always the turbocharger. The problem, as I see it, is that the turbo is going to be worn at that mileage. Turbos are like brakepads-they wear and need to be serviced at about 30,000 miles. They will hang on until 130,000 or more, but if we get a turbo in the shop, it allways shows wear.

    I think it's important to rule out any electrical or sensor problem, and I wish some mechanics would chime in, because a turbo, with this kind of mileage, will be in need of service, but without a bigger picture diagnosis, we can't say that the turbo is the source of the problem.

  5. no k&n just dry panel filter,its really strange as the car does go really well once in a while,& the loss of power is all through the power range,its running rich i just dont no why thought id found the problem when i got the code for front o2sensor changed that with denso one but no different.thanks

    well, the turbo is a pain in the rump roast to get to on those engines-if you can get the air inlet hose off the turbo so you can inspect the compressor wheel and give it the shaft test I would....

  6. Hi, no car doesnt use any oil at all,boost gauge reads in bar & boosts to 1.2bar thats what its mapped too,also my boost gauge does read vacum (in' mercury) it goes down from 0 -1-2-3 ect to -8 & the -8 is where the gauge sits when at idle.i have had two times where ive had a very slight bit of smoke come out of the exhaust this was last year when we had extremly hot weather & was sat in a traffic jam but none since then,i do have sort around the tip of exhaust which got worse when my problems started but ive put this down to running rich.Thanks for the replies.

    Well, if it smoked, something was going on. I rebuild and sell turbos for a living, so I know a few things.

    A turbo that is out of balance due to wear will show imbalance (and poor performance) at a certain RPM range. If a turbo is completely gone, it will show imbalance at every range, but if it is just worn, it will fail to perform either at low RPM, mid RPM, or high RPM. So, a worn turbo will lose power usually at low RPMs or high RPMs, but usually not both.

    Doesn't mean it's your turbo at all-do you have a K&N filter by any chance?

  7. Look at the link I posted, it tells you how to use a vac gauge to test for a clogged cat among other things Being down on power and running poorly, is your turbo operating? IS your turbo gauge in PSI or BAR.

     

    The vac gauge is really under appreciated as a diagnostic tool, so simple and very informative.

     

    My thoughts exactly-the TD04 turbos are starting to wear, finally, on the WRX/Foresters. Do you get any smoke at startup or idle? Most people don't see the smoke, so it's best to get out and look.

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