Zimmyzoq

Ok guys, thanks of all the great info and advice. I think aside from that loose wp bolt the tb system all looks ok - the black stuff on the belt was more powdery than chunks, so maybe just gradual wear and tear. Everything seems tight and the camshaft pulleys line up just right. BUT...... I think I get the dunce award for this one - as suggested i did accidentally drain the transmission fluid rather than the engine oil (wow...., and im studying to be an engineer??), and overfilled it with new oil. You learn from mistakes hey? It did seem odd that the 'oil' after 5k miles was not black but rather red, dont know why that didn't stick in my head. So from here am I ok simply refilling with transmission fluid and putting her back together? Or having driven without the fluid could I have done some serious damage. Also is there anything else worth doing while im at it, ie spark plugs, or any of the tb stuff (if it isn't broken)? Thanks again for all input Zach

So I managed to get the tb cover off - tensioner looks ok but Im not sure if you can tell just by eye. There is a bolt behind it which is half out - this seems a little sus. Also there is quite a bit of wear on the cover right behind where the crankshaft pulley sits. Also it looks like the camshaft sprockets are in line ok. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

So I managed to drive home from the bus station yesterday - was a bit worried I wouldn't make it! The engine know hadn't gotten any louder/more frequent, however the power was terrible; lots of revving and mot really going anywhere. I tried to take it very easy. I'm thinking/hoping this is now sounding more like a tb issue rather than something in the engine block. Ill have a look at the tensioner tonight. Anyone have advice on tb kits with all the goodies? Are the cheaper kits on eBay something I should steer clear of? Also if I'm going to swap all of this out its worth doing the thermostat and coolant yes? Really appreciate all the feedback so far guys!

Ok - so say I need an new engine and have a bunch of time on my hands and a friend with a garage, is this the type of thing I could get done with the help of a friend over a few weeks? Or am I kidding myself and should just cut my losses?

Ok ill check for metal in filter tonight. If there is any will it just be sitting inside near the thread or will I have to cut it open? Someone else suggested TB idler pulley so ill have a look at that too. Oil light only stays on briefly

I'm living in CO for a little over a year and bought a cheaper Subaru (poor student!) - 1997 Legacy outback auto with 183,000 on the clock. Had it inspected when I purchased and service records were ok. It now has 205,000 and has recently developed an engine knock. I know this is high mileage so I'm getting concerned its something serious. I did an oil change at just under 200,000. After hearing this a knock at startup and now continuing through most rev ranges (dont think its piston slap as it doesn't die off), I put a full synthetic 5-30 oil in with a new filter. Since the oil change I have noticed a significant loss of power, mainly in 1st gear. It basically revs right up and changes into second without any power. Another strange noise I've noticed is when the engine is turned off I hear something like a ball nearing rattling around for ~5 sec. I've done a lot of reading and wondering if it could be one of the following (or a combination): - rod bearing - knock sensor - cluch (no power) - spark plugs and wires Any insight would be hugely appreciated. My gut feeling is that with this many miles it might cost upward of 1000 to repair. I have a little working knowledge but few tools so would most likely have to have it repaired at a service center. Thanks, Zach