jabbermen

Thanks, Olnick that gives me some ideas.

Whoa whoa whoa, slow down you guys that is way to much info all at once!

Can someone post a link to the thread that specifically goes through the process of cleaning the IAC valve that I read so much about but can never seem to find? I want to make sure I get it right or at least know if the part is shot. Had a low idle speed at about 100rpm but I knew that the timing was off so i wasn't sure if the low idle speed was related. I just relaced the timing belt, water pump, idlers and such. Idle speed is still at 100, won't idle on it's own until normal OP temp is reached. I did the whole unplug the IAC test to see if the idle speed drops (in this case kills the car) but no change what so ever and IAC resistance is within spec so it functions electrically. Not throwing any codes anymore after resetting the timing and replacing the timing belt. So idle issue aside everything is in working order and drives like it should. Any ideas or links to previous posts, for I'm sure I ain't the only one to ask the question...WTF?!?! Thanks in advance

Link will work, looks like a lot of good stuff to go through there. Thanks for speaking up.

Can anyone tell me a resistance specification for thee old manual trans two terminal IAC? Correct me if I'm wrong but from what I understand in '92 the IAC superseded to a three terminal plug? Unfortunately I only have a '92 FSM and can only find the resistance values for the three terminal IAC Any light shed on the subject would be greatly appreciated! And while I'm at it, what would be the best way to test the Ignitor Module? Thanks in advance!

I already got the new tps, just trying to understand a poorly written repair manual. I just checked the existing tps off pins 2 and 4 and got a decrease in resistance as I opened the throttle, the results were out of spec ( hence the new tps). Davebugs maybe yinz should try the multimeter next time, just set the meter to just above the amount of resistance you expect to read n'at. i.e. tps should read between 10 and 12 kilo ohms throttle closed so set the meter to 20 kilo ohms and there yinz go. Just don't try to figure out what pins to measure off of from a Chilton manual.

I see, so maybe try testing pins 2 and 4 instead of terminals 2 and 3 like the Chilton says? That is where I get the constant resistance. Since you mentioned idle switch is it possible for a tps code to show because of a faulty idle switch?

Alright I'm new here so please point me in a direction if this subject matter is posted here somewhere. I threw a TPS (along with a knock sensor and VSS) code in my 91 legacy I read in the chiltons that when testing the sensor that I should get a resitance of 12 kilo ohms throttle closed and 5 with the throttle fully open. That being said I tested the one on my car along with about six others at the local junkyard (hair brain idea) and each sensor tested with a different ohm reading but I got the same resistance wether the was trottle open or closed, even the new one I just purchased.... WTF! Did I miss something here? Thanks in advance.