lichen

2001 legacy outback standard trans 2.5 Just bought it, $550. Totaled, salvage title. Runs good, pops out of reverse sometimes. CEL rapid flash, won't clear. Is there a way to reset it?

Thank you, gentlemen.

Paging Larry from Colorado Springs I lost your number, somewhere between the island and Grand Junction, which is where I'm at now. I may need an engine for a 2006 Outback. 808 937 4085 Please call me.

I didn't find and dodgy earths, but I did find that the lower oxygen sensor is visibly damaged, perhaps by a stone.

By earth, you must mean ground. I'll look for that while I'm replacing the temperature sensor.

Update: I idled it in the driveway, until it began to get too hot. The fans never came on. Turned it off, then back on, fans came on, immediately cooled down. CEL flashing, obd-2 says front oxygen sensor malf, speed sensor malf, and neutral position sensor malf. It also says neutral position sensor high input and speed sensor malf 2.

Well, I bought a temp sensor, hopefully it will be in today, and I'll start with that. At the moment, it's idling, temperature normal, upper rad hose hot, lower rad hose cold. Tranny lines not hot. Coming up the hill yesterday, no issue.

I have used the A/C to make the fans come on, but it doesn't always work. I don't know how to put it in diagnostic mode. Nor do I know where the temp sensor is.

Hi, guys. This car still has issues. It wants to overheat again. I just got finished replacing the head gaskets, and by the way, I have to climb about 2,500 feet elevation every time I drive home, in about six miles, so the grades are steep. It does fine down on the highway, but coming up just now, it began to get past normal operating temperature. The fans aren't coming on. I replaced the knock sensor, what else can it be?

Additionally, I straightened the pitch stop link, and it fit into place easily.

I remembered that years ago, for some reason I had removed the pitch stop link, and knowing nothing about what it was, thought it must be normal that it was sort of z-shaped. I had to loosen the motor mounts to get it back in. This has been a problem all along! So after I took it out, I simply jacked up the engine a smidge, and it fell into perfect alignment, the starter now sounds normal again, the engine purrs sweetly again, and the vibration is gone. All well! Thank you so much!

Okay. This one is very crooked, and badly bent. It's not straight like the one in the picture above. I'll remove it and straighten it.

I tried to upload a photo of the pitch-stop but it wouldn't. Too big. Anyway, the pitch-stop link is very crooked. I'm assuming that's a problem.

No, I don't know what that is. I drove it about 40 miles this morning. There's a fairly strong vibration upon deceleration at highway speed, and also the starter motor sounds much louder than before. Something is not right. I'm going to look up that bolt now.

Both studs are in the slots, but it seems like I have to use the nut on the passenger side to suck the engine down so the mount is flush with the crewmember. Unusual. Should drop right into place.

1999 Legacy Outback, 2.5 liter engine, successfully replaced head gaskets. New water pump, thermostat, and knock sensor. Did the job without pulling engine. Used a floor jack to raise engine. The passenger side motor mount won't seat. Low-key high-pitch whining noise on test drive. What did I do wrong? Is it the cv joint not seating correctly?

It was my mistake. I'm lucky I didn't break one of them. It turns out I was using the value for the camshaft sprocket bolts because I misread the text.

Hey guys, I talked to Larry about this, but he doesn't know, or care, because he always replaces the 2.5 with a 2.2 when it has been overheated. I replaced the head gaskets, and it seems 700 inch-pounds is too much for the cam cap bolts. Feels like they will strip if I torque them that hard. When I removed them, they were nowhere near that tight. So what I want to do here, is torque them until I feel comfortable, and use red threadlocker to keep them there. Thoughts?

Hello, fellow Subie drivers! I'm trying to determine if a used tranny out of a 2000 forester will be compatible with my 1999 forester. The engines have already been swapped. 2000 VIN# JF1SF6357YH727902 1999 VIN# JF1SF635XXH711112

How can I get ahold of him?

Saturday morning here, decided to take the thermostat out, and it's already gone. My first impression was head gaskets; maybe it's just the water pump? I know, probably not because previous owner most likely warped the heads.

Thanks, that's all awesome information. I haven't had time to work on it yet though. Poor wife stuck at home :0(

Codes are: P1510 P1516 P0106 P0440 P0136 I cleaned the IACV with MAF cleaner. It could be the timing, but after checking the numbers, it had new pulleys, idlers, tensioner, bolts, belt and head gaskets only 37k miles ago. This corresponded with a fuelling from a station we never use. But I don't know how that could be relevant. Contaminated fuel?

I took the radiator out of my parts car and installing in this one. The coolant connections for the tranny lines are on the bottom of the radiator instead of on the driver side, but with some longer hoses I think I can get it connected okay. So we'll see what happens.

Hi, guys! We just picked up this 1998 Forester, previous owner parked it because it was overheating. It sat in the weeds here in Hawai'i for three years, and started right up. It also started to overheat on the way up the hill. I suspect the heads are warped because the coolant, after being forced into the reservoir, will not suck back into the radiator as it normally should. No steam out the tailpipe. No oil in the coolant. No coolant in the oil. The heater works. I suppose I should pull the plugs to look for evidence of coolant there. How else can I check for evidence the head gaskets are leaking? And lastly, maybe it just needs a new radiator?