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bultmajd

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Posts posted by bultmajd

  1. Hey all, thanks for the replies. I've decided on an outback. The issues is what model year and engine. Why would you suggest an H6? Or an H4 for that matter?

    What model year would be the best? Looking at sub $12k in the southern Ohio area.

     

    I like the suggestion of keeping my Jeep. I would keep it if... I off roaded, needed it for the winter (I think the outback will suffice in Ohio winter) or anything where a jeep will benefit over an outback that I do. The only thing I think I'm loosing between an outback and Jeep is a little space.

     

    I think the outback is tgr best choice. As mentioned I could get the legacy but I think it would be more of a sacrifice and having to try to make it work. When the outback would fit the bill.

  2. Thanks for the response,

     

    I drive 40 minutes to work, ends up being just under 50 miles round trip. Which is the main reason for driving the Miata which I average about 31 mpg, whiled my jeep is only at 17.5mpg.

    I'm a pretty active guy... In my time off I like to snow ski, mountain bike, road bike, practical shooting, golf, fish and kayak just to name a few. I do occasionally find unpaved areas especially shooting, skiing and biking.  Starting to think the outback is the better choice 100%. Which outback year would you consider and why? I'm looking at both models with years ranging from 2007-2011. Thoughts?

  3. Hey all, yes another one if these....

     

    I've decided that I need a new car. I currently have 2, a '99 Grand Cherokee and a '97 Miata. I'm looking to sell of both of them and upgrade to just one. I commute in the Miata because the gas mileage is better, yet when I do anything outdoors related or people moving I drive the Jeep.

     

    I've decided on a Subaru mainly because of the gas mileage and symmetrical AWD system. And not to mention I've wanted one for along while. The decision I can't shake is the model to go with. Do I go with a Legacy or Outback? I'm looking at 2007-2011 Legacy or Outback sub 90,000 miles.

     

    I've driven them both, all 4 to be exact based on model year. I like them all for multiple reason and can't decide on which one to get. What do I need to consider when looking at the difference between the two and trying to decide which one is right for me and my lifestyle?

     

    Thanks,

    J

  4. Would you guys go then with a 2007 to present or 00-04 outback with a H6 I did a little research and believe that the H6 is what I'm looking for, but I do want to drive one first, considering I haven't.

     

    Too bad the legacy doesn't come with a H6.....

     

    From what I see it looks like the h6 only comes with the ll bean edition, is that correct?

    Could I reasonably find a 07-present outback in my price range or would I have to do. 00-04??

     

    Thanks

    P.S. the reason I'm asking is a found a pretty nice outback ll bean but its a 2002. It has about 126xxx and looks to be service records all done by one owner he bought in 2002 brand new.

  5. Does the legacy come in an H6?

    What would the difference be between a 4-cyl and an H6 be?

    I saw that you guys are suggesting H6s with significantly more miles that what I was looking for, is that because of the reliability? Realistically how many miles should an H6 last?

     

    I come from a background of suvs and trucks; jeep grand cherokee, gmc jimmy, another jeep, dodge Dakota, and did I mention another jeep grand cherokee. I do have a Mazda miata too. That I drive bite for gas mileage.

    I do about 80 miles a day now, but in 6 months it will significantly go down. So.... Considering, would you do a legacy or outback? ( if the legacy doesn't come in a H6?

     

    The H6 seems like a better engine overall. It's that true?

  6. Since you guys are suggesting 2004ish outback with 150,000 miles should I be looking in that area then?

    Its a tossup for me between the outback and legacy. I don't need the room of the outback but it wouldn't hurt.

     

    I don't quite know as much about the H6 engine; problems? Issues? Reliably? Etc...

     

    but,

    I did I bit of research tonight... seems like for the legacy and outback 2004 and 2006 or 2007-2010 seem like good options. Ideas

  7. a coupla points, 6 cylinder (horizontal 'boxer' config.) is only gonna be coupled to an automatic tranny. 4 cyl 2.5 boxer is available with auto or 5 spd.

     

    what is the weight/power ratio in your Jeep?

     

    as an example for the Outback;

     

    2007 3.0 H6 makes 243hp, weighs 3610 - 14.8 lbs/hp

     

    2007 2.5 H4 makes 175hp weighs ~ 3400 - 19.4 lbs/hp

     

    I'd avoid the H4 if it's much higher than your Jeeps ratio. If it's close, then thorough test driving would definitely be helpful just to determine if the 'feel' of it will be acceptable. Just differences in how/when the torque peak comes in and how a car handles turns and braking can make a big difference even if their power/weight ratios are similar.

    well....

     

    1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee I6 4.0 makes 195 hp, weighs 3968 --- 20.3 lbs/hp

     

    so yea haha

     

    The 6s are flat (horizontally opposed) just like the 4s. 3 cylinders on each half, pointing away from each other.

    The 6 does pack more punch than the 4 but at the expense of fuel mileage. Unless you need to tow something the 4 should do fine, assuming you don't overload the car with cargo and passengers.

     

    Wind noise from the doors is a Subaru trait because of the frameless window design. The 2008 Impreza was the first Subaru with framed windows since the SVX which ended production in '96. Before that I think the frameless window went all the way back to the '70s.

    The wind noise can be fixed by replacing the gusset seal (the triangle in the corner), but that only lasts a couple years and it will start whistling again.

     

    In 2010 the Outback got framed windows, thus, no more wind noise.

     

    Ahhh alright, well does the noise differ from model to model, year to year and car to car? Because I did notice a difference between the models that I drove.

  8. If you're loading up with gear and people on a regular basis I'd go with the Outback. It's the most occupant room, the biggest cargo area, and has good ground clearance for snow and minor off-road. Outback is also low enough that you can put bikes on the roof fairly easily (much easier than putting them on the roof of a Cherokee).

     

    Hatch clearance for a hitch mount cargo carrier I wouldn't think should be an issue. The hitch will be roughly the same distance below the hatch as it is on the Cherokee.

     

    That's what I was thinking, since I was used to my jeep with capacity I figured that was the most comparable to what I have. and there are times that I do pack it full, and times when I don't. 

     

    I have driven a couple of 2003-2005 outbacks and ..are there also people that noticed the whistling by the drivers side door?

    Was it on all outbacks of that model years or was it just of the ones that I drove or could it have been the roof racks (I've had that before) or what? Because that was a turn off especially as I was looking to purchase that or my jeep (which I did, obviously, end up purchasing)

     

    Would you think that the 4 cyl would be alright, or do you guys think that I should go with the 6 cyl?

    Is the 6 cyl a straight 6?

  9. Timing belts have 105k mile or 10 year change interval. (Whichever comes first)

    The newer belts don't stretch. At least not an amount that will be noticable to you or I. Biggest deal with the belts is to make sure the idlers and water pump get changed when the belt is changed. These timing belts seldom break on their own. A seized idler pulley or water pump is almost always the cause of a broken belt.

     

    Ok thank you, I guess its not as big of a deal as I'm making it out to be.... as long as the right service gets preformed!! 

     

    swing-away carrier would work with the hatches on the wagons. Otherwise, a sedan might be better for you. I dunno, are there carriers that stick out enough for hatches to open?

     

    timing belts have been quite the norm for decades for many car brands/models and, if the service was done 'correctly', they don't present a problem. The issue come when buying a used car as to whether a belt only was slapped on the car, or if all the appropriate ancillary gear was attended to.

     

    If you plan to regularly cruise with a load and passengers, you might lean towards a 6 cylinder model.

     

    Hvae you found a local shop with some Subaru experience that can provide a pre-purchase inspection?

     

    Well the cargo carrier that I have fits on my Grand Cherokee allows for the hatch to open without getting in the way (with about the maximum of a large cooler and a large Rubbermaid container). Now if I bolt a fork mount on it and put my extra bikes on it then... I will be unable to open the gate, obviously. I am aware that the height difference between the hitch and swing of the gate is a little different between a Subaru and my jeep. So I don't know

     

    I normally drive to work about 70 miles, around town and to soccer practice. I will twice or so a week load up to go to the bike trails and in the winter 4-6 days a week go to the ski slope and on occasion pack it full when we go on vacation. I'm thinking that the forester (although I don't like its design) and the outback is looking to be my best bet...but I won't be able to determine that until I test drive them all. would you look at getting the 6cyl or should the 4cyl be alright???

     

    I did a post this afternoon to find one... however my uncle was a mechanic for 30+ years and now works as an appraiser for an insurance company, I think I'm going to take him with me when I go for a test drive. Then have a Subaru specialist take a look (when I find one) if he gives me the all clear!

  10. hard to think of anything....some Legacies and Outbacks have a flat 6 cyl. engine that uses a timing chain instead of a belt as used in all 4 cyl. engines prior to - uh, - about 2012 or so. There is no service interval listed for the chain and failures have so far been very rare.

     

    Although it actually is a well-planted car, some folks feel the Forester exhibits too much body roll when cornering.

     

     

    really, they are just different body styles and you just need to drive them.

     

    Oh yeah, if you tow anything you need to check the tow specs. probably find those also at www.cars101.com

     

    I don't think that I'm going to need to tow anything, but the use of a cargo carrier on the hitch (if applicable) would be used.

     

    Is the belt that is, per you, used in all 4 cyl's prior to 2012 alright? I'm used to chains all of the cars that's I've had, not belts and am hesitant about switching. I know the belts stretch and in general wouldn't be as reliable however, I'm aware of the reliability with the older models and would assume that would be the use of belts not chains, correct?! Thus the belts are fine, as long as the required 30, 60 and 100,xxx mi services are done and done right, right??

     

     

    aside from the cargo space differences noted above - and what 1LuckyTexan mentioned there really isnt much pro/con between the models to talk about...

    They are all very capable cars that can serve you very well for many miles/years when cared for properly.

     

    go try them on for size, see which model appeals to you the most, fits you the best, and is going to meet your needs the best...

     

    That's exactly where I think I am at now, go drive the 4 and figure out which one will suit my needs the best and I like the most!!

  11. I think most are shying away from recommending a specific model/year because everyone's tastes are a little different. You need to go try out a few different models and see which fits you best. Head room, leg room, & seating position are different in each of the models, and there is some variation between years (model changes/updates over time)

     

    And I'm not expecting you to after all the explanations that I received about the model, years, and just general information about each one. I think that it has come down to the point where I need to get in the ones that I'm looking at and go from there. I'll decide at that point in time... However I do have one more question?

     

    What are some pros and cons of each of the 4 models? (general or specific) THANKS!

  12. Please don't let all this speculation scare you away from Subaru. We just don't want you tobe unhappy with a decision because you didn't know about something that you wouldn't have learned if you didn't ask here first.

     

    No your not scaring me away at all, actually despite the lack of suggestions for models and years this is exactly what I wanted... the truth.it's not turning me off, in fact it's drawing me towards.

    "If I do the maintenance required and find one that's been loved it should be with me forever. If I do encounter a problem that I can't fix... I know where to turn!!!"

    This is exactly what I wanted when I bought my jeep, that I didn't receive. Luckily, I was able to fix all the problems.

    I will go ahead and post looking for a mechanic in my area

    • Like 1
  13. first, you seem generally happy with your Jeep. $10,000 would go a long way to keeping it in reliable condition I'd think.

     

     

    With used cars, the individual vehicle's past care and present condition are vastly more important than it's brand/model or predicted reliability when new. In short, an abused 6 year old Honda could be a worse purchase than a pampered 6 year old Fiat.

     

     

    Perhaps ask for Subaru mechanics in Cincinnati in a new thread. 2 reasons. One, sometimes they will have a car or 2 posted for sale by a customer in their waiting room. Second, have a prospective purchase looked at before buying. A pre-purchase inspection may cost an hour or two's labor, but it could save you from buying a car with torque bind or low compression in a cylinder or ???

     

     

    As for recalls, all cars have them. You would be wise to have the VIN checked by a dealer for ANY brand of used car to see if safety recalls were done.

    I generally am happy with my jeep, but I think I'm ready for a change and this seems to be a perfect time!!

     

    Where would you suggest looking and or posting for the mechanics in Cincinnati thread??

  14. Those complaints would be more general acroass all models for certain spans of years. Don't go by model so much as year of manufacture. Some of the most reliable engines ever built would be from the 90-96 models, if that is not too old to shop for. But the newer ones haven't been around long enough to prove.

     

    This is not so much a manufacture or design flaw, but maintenance issue. Subarus are finicky and particular about 'proper subaru maintenance' but the maintenance procedures themselves are pretty sstaight forward.

     

    If you read alot about head gasket failures, you can attribute that to lack of coolant flushes and latting the car go to 100,000 mi without the 30 and 60 thousand mile service intervals.

     

    Otherwise a subaru is a great platform for versatility. I like to think of it a a modular car. If you were a mechanic or a gear head you would find that you can build a subaru much like a set of legos, mixing and matching across several years and platforms. Parts are easy to interchange with subaru.

     

    I have had mainly older subarus, I have gotten my hands dirty with alot of them, but i find them for cheap, i have had more than 40 of them, and i will continue to stick with subarus as other types of vehicles just don't appeal to me (by function or engineering)

     

     

    Oh.. thanks, would you suggest looking at anything more than heartless suggested?

     

    So I just want to confirm that your saying all years and models are good its just long as their required maintenance is done? What were you talking about with model years?

     

    I was looking at getting something with less than 80-90,xxx miles about a 2005-9... basically not too old or too many miles, ideas? Thoughts?

     

    Oh and I would prefer a manual, but its not 100% required

  15. If you think you will be on dirt/mud/gravel roads, you may need more ground clearance than a stock legacy or Impreza will offer. So, you should limit your shopping to Outback, Forester or 'Outback Sport'. The last 2 are based on 'impreza' chassis. The Outback as most people think of it, is legacy chassis-based.

     

    You can do a little research at www.cars101.com

    Thanks, for the comparison and chassis reference. I'll be sure to take a look more one here and cars101.com

  16. Symmetrical AWD will beat standard 4x4 hands down...my 90 Legacy AWD wagon handles far better in the snow - even "deep" snow - than our 95 Dodge Ram 4x4 does...the only thing the Dodge has going for it is ground clearance - Ha!

     

    You want/must have a roof rack? then "wagon" is the way to go - almost all have a factory roof rack.

     

    Coming out of a Jeep, I would think the Forester would be the most similar to what you are used to - and a bit more "manly" than say, an Impreza Sport would be. ;)

     

    You should be able to get a very nice, used Subaru - of any model - in the $5000 - $7500 range.

     

    Things to look for when looking at a used Subaru:

     

    Tires - all should be of the same brand, style, air pressures, and similar wear patterns - Subaru AWD IS fussy about tires - they all need to be within about 1/4 inch in circumference of each other. Be very wary of mismatched tires!

     

    When test driving - go to a large paved parking lot, and turn very slow tight circles with the car (basically a rolling idle, steering cranked all the way over) - both forward, and backwards, in both directions - you are testing for "torque-bind" - any resistance, bucking, odd-feelings - take the car back and walk away. a search here about torque bind will give you more information about it than you ever thought you wanted.

     

    Maintenance history if at all possible - most Subarus have timing belts, and other timing related components, that need to be changed at regular intervals to avoid internal damage to the engine. (since about 1996, Subaru engines are all interference style - a broken belt will cause internal damage - older models were non-interference - no internal damage if a belt broke)

     

    There are certain engine models that had head gasket issues - again, a search here will turn up an overload of information about that.

     

    Educate yourself about what you are looking for, and understand that buying a used car - even a "newer" used car, can be a bit of a gamble, no matter what. You dont know how that car was treated and/or maintained - the seller might tell you it was driven by a little old lady only to church on Sundays, but can they prove it?

     

    Thanks Heartless,

     

    That was extremely helpful, especially what to look for when buying Subaru's. I guess my only real concern isn't roof racks (because I have the ability to put a roof rack on whatever I get even if it has or doesn't have a stock one already installed) or ground clearance or whatever. It's picking a model with a wrong year. For example I found a 2008 Impreza, decent price, good shape, low miles and.... but upon farther research I found this (http://www.carcomplaints.com/Subaru/Impreza/2008/) seemingly complaints and recall problems galore? which intern puts me off from 2008s and Impreza's in general.

     

    I guess my question would be.... Is there a better year Forester, Impreza, Outback and/or Legacy than others? One that is more reliable, less problems in general, has lower recalls and complaint, etc.?

     

    I'm pretty sure that I just need to go drive the 4 of them to figure out which one would best suit me and my driving, I like the idea of a AWD car with a touch better mpg like the Impreza or "nicer" Legacy... Or something with about the same storage space as my jeep, "higher ground clearance" and standard roof rack with the Outback and Forester

     

    I guess I'm just lost!!!

  17. Hello all, 

     

    I am looking at getting a new car and... Subaru's are seemingly to fit it bill

     

    I currently drive 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 245,xxx miles on her, back and forth to work about 70 miles a day. There's nothing major mechanically wrong with it, that prohibits my driving to work... however I have a feeling that it's not too far away from dying. So, prior to it doing so I would like to purchase something. Subaru's are looking like the choice for me. 

     

    I don't really need the 4x4 or the 'grand' size of the Jeep anymore but, where I live I would very much like a minimum of AWD. I will have about $10,000 to spend and would prefer to not to finance. I understand that my price range prohibits the purchasing of a new Subaru, and that's OK, used is alright with me (as long as the miles aren't too high and it runs fine).

    I have enough mechanical knowledge to do an inspection and some mechanical fixes. Gas Mileage, isn't a factor for me, considering I drive a Jeep getting about 20 mpg daily, but I wouldn't mind one with better, even if just a little.

     

    What ever I get I will need to put a roof rack on for skis, bikes and a kayak.

     

    Now to the car.... I have been looking mainly at the Impreza. But the Legacy, Forester and Outback are in the selection too. In the research that I have done I have seen some great reviews on all of them but also some bad ones!! I'm just not sure on which one would suit my needs best. Again, the Impreza is my top choice so far but the reviews I have seen praise a certain year and/or complaints for some other ones that are turning me off!!! 

     

    Help me choose please. I would prefer the a car (Impreza or Legacy) not a wagon but if its the best then I will "suffer" haha. I know everyone's ideas will be different (as the the model) but I'm just trying to weigh my options and purchase the best car for my needs. 

     

    Thanks and I look forward to your responses!

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