KRB64

That's my thought. Guess I`ll try digging into the tranny rear when I get time. In the mean time we've been driving her as is.

Manual switch, I thought that was in place of the fuse so you could switch it in & out with out popping the hood? If the duty c was bad that wouldn't help right? Or am I confused like usual?

Yea, I pretty much figured it must be the solenoid, but since Subs are new to me I thought I better check the tranny codes too just in case. Its the car in my sig at the first post: 1997 Legacy L, EJ22 & automatic, only 288,XXX miles. Oh yeah, its mostly green with some rust sprinkles... Thanks guys,

OK, I'm finally getting around to dealing with this again. Here's the current situation: With the FWD fuse in the light doesn't come on any more and its in AWD because I still have torque bind. I'm guessing the wire may be bad? But I haven't checked to see where it goes into the tranny yet to verify. At start up the trans light flashes 16 times but when I do the secret handshake to diagnose the tranny code I get nothing. No lights no flash nothing. This is what I'm doing straight off the sticky here: 1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph. 2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF. 3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on. 4) Turn ignition switch OFF. 5) Move selector lever to D and turn manual switch ON. 6) Turn ignition switch ON. 7) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch OFF. 8) Move selector level to "2" and turn manual switch ON. 9) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch OFF. 10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off). 11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal. Any ideas?

Now that is funny no matter who you are!

Perfect, thanks! I searched but didn't get that thread.

OK, I found the connector and it seems OK. What I can't find is the sensor itself. The Haynes manual just shows me the connector plug. Where do I look for the sensor itself? Thanks,

That clarifies it. Thanks!

Is it as simple as it sounds? That it senses a knock? Or is it saying that the knock sensor is bad? I've searched and some of the posts say to check the sensor for cracks or swap out. Indicating that 325 code means the sensor is bad. But that won't do any good if 325 means that it's sensing a knock. It only comes on every so often. The engine develops a ticking once it warms up. At first it sounded like a loose heat shield rattle that comes and goes but I can't locate that. I'm wondering if that is what it is "sensing"? Also getting a PO420 code now in bank 1, not sure if they are connected or not? Any ideas? Thanks,

Thanks, I'll count. How does one access the TCU stored codes?

The ATF temp light flashes when first start it up. I assume that is just the check light like all the others though? Seems like it does it after all the other lights go off now that I think about it. But it doesn't stay on. I'll need to pay attention next time.

I'd check alignment before deciding. If the tire/wheel took much of the force then things could be bent. If that checks out OK then I'm with the rest.

Good point. I'll look at the wiring schematic and start checking connections, wires and grounds. What is the TCU by the way? Is the solenoid in the tranny or mounted on the outside?

Yes & no. When I put the fuse in it doesn't always light up the dash light and cancel AWD. When it does, it does seem to eliminate the torque bind. But then again, when in AWD, the torque bind comes & goes anyway...

Its a lurch like CNY Dave described and like the relaxing after no ATF pressure like Gloyale says. The button is stuck in on the brake lever for now. Imdew - I flush my truck like that. But you don't mean that you refill the trans and then do it do you? I realize these are different beasts but I run the truck until the fluid stops then IMMEDIATELY shut it down. This empties the TC on the old Dodge.

No, didn't realize that would help. Many thanks,

Well I've drained and refilled twice and it still comes & goes. May not be the cheap fix I was hoping for. Have enough DexronIII to do it one more time and see. Subs are new to me and I have a tranny question. When I put it in Park it does like its supposed to but when I turn off the ignition it rolls a wee bit, just like I had the brakes on and let off. Is this normal?

Many thanks.

I assume the vacuum lines are original on this car. I'd like to start replacing them. Are these just standard lines or are they formed lines? If they are formed ones can I just replace with standard vacuum lines of the correct size?

What I drained out looked more like engine oil than tranny fluid. Just drained and refilled for the second time, will see what happens. Thanks for the help.

Thanks guys.

I'm following the advice of changing the tranny fluid a couple times to hopefully eliminate the bind. Question is how much should I drive between changes? Just long enough to get to operating temps and then drain and refill or should this happen several times first? Thanks,

That's what I was hoping it was not. Is this what you refer to? http://legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm Johnc your description sounds like what mine's doing. Sounds like maybe I don't want to replace the screen, I'll look and see when the last time that was done.

I believe I can find the drain it sounds like. Main thing is I was wondering about the front diff but that sounds safe. Thanks Mike When I got the filter from NAPA they said the tranny was a Mazda unit? Heartless, that link is exactly what I was looking for. How come its not in the sticky or did I overlook it? Thanks guys

Getting the fluid and will drain a couple times. All tires match and I'll double check air pressure again though. I've never owned a sub before. Is the tranny drain obvious or could I confuse it with anything else? The owner's manual just tells me how to check it and I don't have a shop manual yet. Thanks for the help,