yankneck
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Posts posted by yankneck
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Ok, so following the directions here http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html, I came up with code 33 speed sensor 2. What on earth does that refer to? I did a search here, http://parts.riverheadbaysubaru.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=Speed%20sensor%202&ukey_make=5806&ukey_model=89998&ukey_trimLevel=110403&ukey_driveLine=0&modelYear=1992&ukey_category=52093
and seemingly came up with AT. Control Valve. Which I tried to price at my local dealer & was told over $1,000. What am I in the middle of?
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When I punch it, like to pass or stomped off the line, I get what sounds like metal on metal squeal that was not there before. I'm looking into how to translate power light flashing. When I start the car power light is solid for maybe 2 seconds then flashes 16 times. If it's something like the Duty C or clutch pack, would I be able to swap it off my original transmission?
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Update
Ok, I cheated. I took it to the transmission shop for them to locate the leak. Apparently, in my worry about the positioning of the holes in the bolt to the rear steel line, I didn't get it toght. They went ahead and tightened it for me, no charge. Honestly, with as sore as I am, I'm glad they took the 20 minutes or so because watching how hard it was for them on the lift, it would have been a PITA on the ground for me. I'm still keeping check, I think I still have a leak, just significantly slower. I may have to get an actual Subaru pan gasket. Shop said the rubber gasket doesn't usually work well on these especially with no sealant like the directions said.
Thanks for all the help & support.
Paul
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Morning update. After approximately 25-30 fluid was off the dipstick entirely, leaking like a sive. Will get it up later to look. New developments. When I start the car, the green Power light on the dash flashes, never seen it do that before & I can't get any sound out if my radio even when playing a CD. Keep y'all updated.
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Ok, I answered my own question. Putting 8 quarts in BEFORE starting was WRONG. It started pouring out around the dipstick tube where it mounts to tranny. I did a short easy test drive, shifted well & all. Then went to gas station about 5 miles away. After buying inside items & gas, I checked & I'm pretty sure it was showing low. I backed up & had a puddle on the ground. Drove home had no issues. Will check again in the AM.
Whoever suggested ratchet straps, thanks a million. One through front doors & one around front fenders. That got it up enough to get a Jack under it. Then the addition of a skinnier friend REALLY helped get it mounted.
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Keep the coffee going! If you get stuck/frustrated be willing to walk away though. Often saves time/frustration/mistakes/even injury.
I fill the fluid - technically I think the best measurement will be at idle. So it will probably require more as everything circulates. Gear oil on the passenger side tube should not need more added after the initial fill.
After you've had it running/idling for a while and the levels seem right, I take it for a few minutes gentle drive and check again. Don't think it has needed more after that but I check a few times just in case.
My first auto trans swap I had a leak at one of the lines due to the previously mentioned crush washer. Got cold chills down my spine when it wouldn't go into reverse and was shifting poorly. Checked fluids and was low. Topped it off, got home and figured out the issue quick. Was terrified I'd installed another failing trans.
After the crush washer that trans went on for 83,000+ miles til we sold the car (A 2000 Outback that was at 382,000 miles and has probably turned 400 with the new owner. That first trans had gone just shy of 300k)
Yeah I wasn't able to get to Subaru today & Auto Zone nor Advance had the crush washers, crossing my fingers. This one has almost 285,000 on original transmission, was told replacement has 103,000 Yay me right lol.
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I totally get what you're saying about walking away, BUT I NEED it to get to work leaving at 5:30 AM EST. SO you add what you think it needs, then start and idle, then check. I was mainly asking if I start & let idle BEFORE I'm finished adding initial fill. I believe from empty capacity is 8.8 quarts. So I was wondering put 8 in then start or start after say like 6?
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Almost there, when I put the transmission fluid in, do it put it all in, then start or what? I'm finishing this tonight, rain or no rain. Thanks for everything already.
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Anyone have photos showing examples? With car having slid once let's just say I'm more than a little nervous going underneath. Resting on 2 Jack stands with support from 2 floor jacks.
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Suggestions on how to get it in the air from here?
The scratch marks are from taking the old one out, not the new one under.
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On the bolts to the steel return & supply lines, anything specific I need to pay attention to on those holes in the bolts?
Yes, I finally got it down and out after 3 working days on it. Yay me now to get it up ugh ????
Old
Replacement
These were before I swapped the steel lines. The dipstick tube also got bent some, I'm hoping it's bent back far enough or should I swap those too?
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Check heater hoses, etc. Might have strained them tilting the engine around.
GD
Alright, will do. Thanks
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On a side note, I seem to now but not before have a very slight coolant leak, seemingly from the rear of the engine area? Suggestions as to what to look at. Slight meaning one slow drip from oil pan bolt about a minute & a half apart
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I got it down but didn't have car high enough & sucky Jack only has 13 3/8 lift on in. Nervous putting a block on the jack. My luck sucks, makes everything be difficult lol
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I can do that, thanks.Well then just blow through it with your mouth and a bit of hose. Let them air dry for a bit. Just make sure fluid can flow through it. The early transmissions had no filter in the pan so want to make sure you don't contaminate the new trans.
GD
Just to confirm, we are talking the return & supply lines where they disconnected from the tranny, right?
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Have brake cleaner, no compressed air ????Spray through the lines with brake cleaner and compressed air. At least that's how we do it. There are some foaming cleaners they sell for this purpose - sometimes when I buy a JDM trans my supplier will include this for warranty purposes.
GD
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I was about to post that all Legacy auto's from 90 to 98 are the same and there is no auto that only has 7 wires. Looks like you found your mistake there.
It should swap - you just need to swap over the cooler lines most likely. Make sure you don't use the torque converter from the old transmission and make sure you flush out the cooler lines and the pipe going through the radiator tank.
Some early 90/91 models had a recall done that installed a filter in the fender area near the battery as they were worried about casting flash in the transmissions from production clogging the cooler in the radiator. Make sure you delete this if you have it as it may be clogged due to trans failure and it is unlikely you need to worry about casting flash on a 25 year old replacement used transmission.
GD
Flush them how? Totally no way I would use my existing torque converter, was always told unless it's BRAND NEW, you keep the converter with it's transmission. I'm currently fighting to get it slid the last inch or so to get behind the front crossover so it can come straight down.
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This is what I had confused as the transmission wiring.
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Good god I feel like an idiot. Guess that's what happens when trying to locate things without good lighting. Good thing I didn't finish trying to drop it because I still have the 2 wire harnesses connected. I got to looking better after seeing on a site say the connectors I was looking at were for the crank, cam & knock sensors. Now to just safely get it out & back in. I hate mechanicing on the street. Thanks for the responses & help.
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Post up some pics of the differences. We can guide you through it.
Only way i can think that it gets screwed up is if the torque converter is not fully seated it will crush the pump and your transmission is only useful as a boat anchor or to hold down a tarp.
How do I link pictures here?
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I found a FSM , but of course it was missing the Automatic Transmission section. I'll keep looking but I'm really nervous without direct directions. I can't afford to just buy yet another tranny if I screw this one up.
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Ok Factory Service Manual
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Clogging line issue??Make sure you don't have the 90-92 model legacy clogging trans line issue. Subaru made a fix or repair for this. Even if you have catastrophic trans failure or it's too late, I'd address that now.
automatic.
I'm interpreting the two metal lines as supply and return lines.
I've seen a lot of engine and trans damage to anything that sticks out due to shipping. I think some companies (JDM in particular) specifically mention some external things aren't warrantied and you should plan on swapping them.
If you're amped about trans replacement down load the FSMs and look at the pinouts. (They're available free on the interwebs with some searching). If they're similar then there's a chance they'll work. This doesnnt guarantee all the solenoids are identical but may show it worth checking into. Then you can swap the new transmission pins into the old transmission connectors if the electronics are the same. Label all the wires then De-pin both connectors and swap the old onto the new.
Yes, the supply & return lines.
FSM's?? What are those & how search?
Existing transmission has a TOTAL of 7 wires, new transmission has like 10 or so in each connector.
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Make sure you don't have the 90-92 model legacy clogging trans line issue. Subaru made a fix or repair for this. Even if you have catastrophic trans failure or it's too late, I'd address that now.
automatic.
I'm interpreting the two metal lines as supply and return lines.
I've seen a lot of engine and trans damage to anything that sticks out due to shipping. I think some companies (JDM in particular) specifically mention some external things aren't warrantied and you should plan on swapping them.
If you're amped about trans replacement down load the FSMs and look at the pinouts. (They're available free on the interwebs with some searching). If they're similar then there's a chance they'll work. This doesnnt guarantee all the solenoids are identical but may show it worth checking into. Then you can swap the new transmission pins into the old transmission connectors if the electronics are the same. Label all the wires then De-pin both connectors and swap the old onto the new.
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Transmission swap 92 FWD Legacy
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Alright, so apparently with this, Speed Sensor 2 refers to where to speedometer cable goes into the transmission. I knew the Speedometer wasn't working. I also knew it was because I didn't have it seated into the dash part, because I'd had the entire inner cable out. I cleaned it fully & then applied some Never Seize on it. Once I finally got it seated in the dash correctly, the code went away. Now though, the speedometer seems sluggish. Meaning it seems to go up slowly and especially slow when slowing down. Is there a way to lubricate where the gear us in the transmission itself, or is the NeverSeize an issue. I didn't have any graphite & just figured NeverSeize is slick as all get out, that it would work.