bearbalu

One thing I have learn from reading on this forum is that blind "replace and pray" usually leads to expensive repairs, specially CEL. Same applies for overheating - I suspect I ended up doing head gasket job because I diagnosed the problem to thermostat, it was probably a clogged radiator. Repeated overheating lead to blown head gasket. Here are a few things to try when one gets a CEL with cylinder misfire: 1. Swap spark plugs/spark plug wires/injector to see if the problem moves to another cylinder - if it does, you know what exactly to replace! 2. Measure the resistance of ignition coil/spark plug wires, injector connector against specs, before assuming they are bad 3. Listen to click-click of injectors to see if they are working okay.

Phew – what a month it has been - doing the head gasket, timing belt, valve clearance, clutch, waterpump and oil pump job on my 98 outback 2.5L DOHC EJ 25 engine. I started right after thanksgiving and it took me a whole month. I learnt so much over last month about my Subaru! Many thanks to folks on this forum for helping me through the project. And thanks to theotherskip for the wonderful site he created (http://mysite.verizon.net/vze730qe/index.html) – that’s what really encouraged me to take on this project in the first place. Here are a few things I found useful in addition to what I learned through this forum. Engine removal/Misc: Separating engine from transmission – I have heard of horror stories here– I was scratching my head for 2 hours. The lower engine to transmission mount were under tension. I just RAISED the front of engine (from under timing cover) a little and it popped right out. This is similar to pulling out a stuck drawer in a cabinet. Lower left engine/transmission mount nut : You will need a universal joint adapter and an 6 inch extension to get it out. Mark location of nuts on accelarator/cruise cables before removing – you can replace to same location, avoiding adjustment to them later. Do a compression/leak down test BEFORE embarking on the project - you don't want to find out about valve problems or worn piston rings after you have put the engine back together only to dismantle it again. If you had check engine lights in past, I would definitely do it. After I put my engine together, I had a check engine light scare and it seemed like it might be valve problem. Fortunately, everything turned out okay (so I hope). Compression is also harder to measure with engine out, measure if before. Power steering pump, Subaru service manual (worth every dime of the 20 bucks you pay) just mentions 3 bolt in the front, there is one in the back that must be removed as well. Don’t discharge A/C – you can tie it off to side to remove the engine Instead of renting a hoist, buy one and resell – I bought a used one for 75 bucks. I used a tilt pulley to keep the engine straight and leveled. Buy an engine stand (and resell it) - 50 bucks at Autozone/Pep boys, Waterpump /oil pump easier to remove. You can also rotate the engine making it easier to work on head. You can move the engine with stand (and work in Sun instead of just dingy garage!) If you cannot afford engine stand, get used tires from any tire shop (Big-O-Tires) to use as engine work bench– they will give it away for free. You cannot access clutch components on engine stand if you are replacing clutch, so you need this anyway. Local dealership uses aluminum trash drum of right diameter. If you use tires to do head gasket job, get the right inner diameter tires – short block is no more than 15-16 inches across with heads removed. Use a digital camera to take lots of pictures as documentation. While re-assembling, if in doubt, can use a big screen TV and zoom to specific location. Timing belt: Timing marks – counting teeth is the only reliable method – count teeth from crankshaft sprocket mark to camshaft sprocket marks. The marks on sprocket might not alight perfectly with the mark on inside timing cover due to manufacturing variances – mine didn’t and I freaked out for a moment until I counted the teeth. Crank sprocket mark - it is NOT the triangle on the front face, the true one is simple mark on the rear teeth of crank sprocket. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28199 Note any factory paint marks – specially ones that mark the alignment of intake and exhaust sprockets in relation to each other (double marks/4 fingers that point to each other) – these paint marks(not the etched marks) aligned perfectly giving me the confidence things were right. If you are replacing clutch, have the flywheel on the engine while removing and putting back the timing belt- you need to be able to undo the crank bolt which you will use to turn the engine. To undo crank bolt, you can use a screwdriver to jam the flywheel. Removing timing belt when marks are aligned – left side is under tension (valves are pushed in by camshaft) and might rotate which is OKAY. Intake will rotate counterclockwise, exhaust clockwise to take them out of tension. End wrench article(http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf) suggests that you need the special Subaru double hex tool – not true. Crank pulley – put PB blaster to loosen it while removing it – I punched a hole in timing cover – once I used PB Blaster, it was a breeze. Crank pulley and bolt – tighten it to 130 ft-lb by jamming flywheel BEFORE putting engine back in car – Autozone had ½ inch torque wrench as loaners that went upto 150 ft-lb. Make sure you listen for noisy idlers by listening against your ears – if in doubt compare with new ones at dealership Compressing the tensioner – You can do it at home with a horizontal vice – the mechanic at dealership uses a horizontal type – the reason they recommend vertical type is to make sure that the tensioner adjustor rod is pressed straight - not at an angle. If you don’t have a vice, o just go to Orchard Hardware supply and use the shop one they use for cutting pipes/glass. Waterpump – no sealant required for metal gasket unlike what Haynes manual says Resealing oil-pump: I used Ultra-Grey (Subaru Recommendation), Haynes recommends anerobic sealant. Folks on this forum have used either of them and they seem to have done fine. If you buy the engine overhaul gasket set, theotherskip site says that he could not find the o-ring since multiple ones of them looked the same but might be slightly different. I went to dealership with same confusion, turns out the one to use is 10991AA000 (O-ring cylinder block) - one that you get 4 of and look identifical - they are in fact identical Head gasket: To drive in replacement seals you can buy plumbing couplings of 1" (camshaft) , 1 ¼ (crankshaft )inch and 3 inches(rear main seal) from your local Orchard Hardware/Home Depot. Cam sprocket bolts - Some folks on this forum have loosened them by using tension on timing belt and jamming the flywheel. There was some concern that this might break the timing belt or hurt the tensioner. Others have used the hex portion on camshaft after valve covers is removed. I used the hex portion, but used timing belt as a backup. I found one screw on rear oil separator plate loose – won’t hurt using little Locktite blue to retighten it. I replaced plastic plate with aluminum. Use gasket remover solvent to clean gasket surfaces. I used a plastic putty knife and sand paper of 800 grade for head gasket surface. Clean exhaust manifold gasket surface on the head while engine is on stand – you can rotate engine upside down. Spark plugs –put then back on while engine is out...easier. To build oil pressure without sparks, disconnect the connector at ignition coil and crank the engine. I called the dealer to find out the machine shop they used, just felt safer with them! BTW, I made friends with a mechanic at dealership who answered questions for me...I tipped him... EGR pipe – if you can’t remove the nut connecting it to left side head, machine shop will when they resurface the heads. Valve seals - The engine overhaul gasket set has new valve seals. I had the machine shop take out the old ones and put in the new ones for 30 bucks. Not sure if they ever leak, I did it anyway. The added benefit was that machine shop took out the valves and they got an inspection as well. Have them check for leaky/burnt valves. Half-moons - 1stsubaruparts recommended I replace them and I did. They are 3.86 each (need 4). The old ones seemed perfectly fine to me though. I recommend resealing them using Ultra Grey. Some folks on this forum had a hard time removing them, I just put some gasket remover and pulled them off with a plier in five minutes. Valve clearances: Measure valve clearance in mm –not inches, since it is more granular. Specs call for +- .02 mm and shims come in .01mm increments. Minimum in inches is .001 which is .025 mm. I worked with inches and realized too late. E.g intake spec is .20mm +- .02. I measured my one intake at .006inch which translates to anything from .15 to .175...deciding what replacement shims became guesswork. You can measure valve clearances with timing marks aligned – that way you can measure 12 out of 16 clearance in one single position. Only left side 2 intake and 4 exhaust cannot be measured. Measuring shim thickness – Most micrometers are in inches. Hard to find mm one. You might be able to avoid the need for one by read the thickness written on back side of shims though sometimes they are worn away. Dealerships usually have a micrometer. Kragen auto had a 25 dollar vernier caliper that could read in mm. Clutch: Since clutch /flywheel can’t be removed while on engine stand, take out the clutch by putting engine on tires or hoist. Keep the flywheel on for doing timing belt on engine stand. Remove flywheel after you have finished timing belt by moving the engine back to tires. You can do clutch job first on tires and then move to engine stand to prevent going back and forth, though I recommend doing clutch in the end to keep grease from getting into clutch components. Flywheel might not have zero mark or might be hard to find– put a mark on flywheel ring teeth in relation to pressure plate before removing pressure plate. Makel note of the zero mark on old and new pressure plate (a yellow mark on transmission side if you buy it at 1stsubaruparts). Haynes manual says flywheel is keyed since bolt holes are not spaced evenly. This is not true for EJ25. What a zero mark means on a flywheel which is not keyed is still unclear to me... Clutch alignment tool – hard to find at auto shops, ask the place where you buy clutch parts if they have one as part of clutch kit. Clutch disc – OEM plate did not mark the pressure plate /flywheel sides. The side with springs raised goes towards pressure plate, other side towards flywheel. Mark the old plate before you remove it if you might get confused! Replace clips for throw out (release) bearing and clutch lever – if you order when you order clutch they are cheap - they are just 1.64 each at 1stsubaruparts.

I did replace them. I would recommend buying while buying clutch kit. Pin is 1.64 at 1st subaru parts. 4.11 at dealership...12 bucks for release lever clip!

Having removed the engine and put it back in, I can easily see why. Pitching stopper is indeed connected only to transmission. To remove the engine from transmission, one has to raise the engine so that the mount studs clear the front cross member. To raise the engine, one has to raise the transmission.. which is attached to pitching stopper.

Seems like most manuals suggest don't rotate crank counter clockwise...I am not sure why...

I sprayed some permatex gasket remover and they pulled off real easy. Put in the new ones. Does anyone know what function the half-moons serve? Why not just have metal there instead?

To complete the loop here, I put the engine back in and measured compression on cylinder 1 and 2. On both cylinders I get to around 200 psi after 6-7 cranks with starter motor. I get to around 150 after 2 cranks. I would conclude that doing it on stand is not reliable. Car runs great!

FYI, I did it both ways...I kept the timing belt on but used the hex portion on camshafts (had valve covers off) to prevent rotation. I thought I would leave the belt on if person holding the hex section slipped!

Okay, I bit the bullet and bought these for 7 bucks a piece... I measured the clearances with timing belt off - seemed to work fine. I am still curious as to why Subaru doesn't recommend measuring clearances with timing marks aligned - one could measure 12 valve clearances in this position.

Thanks. I just unplugged the connector on ignition coil and put the plugs in before putting the engine back in. Worked fine.

Thanks. I used my old clutch disc to do what you suggested - seemed like none got onto the old disc, so it won't get on to the new disc.

None that I could see after trying hard. However I had noted the alignment of older pressure plate in relation to flywheel before I took off the old pressure plate. I still don't understand what a flywheel zero mark is if the flywheel is not keyed! Is there inherent "residual unbalance" built into machine casting? Seemed pretty symmetrical to me...

Thanks folks. I tried it - seems like perfectly acceptable method. Cylinder 2 misfire didn't move to cylinder 4, so I know it it'sn't the wires. Cylinder 2 misfire however seems to have vanished mysteriously. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27635 if you have any interest!

Update folks, Here is the good news – the CEL problem seems to have vanished. Here is the bad news – I have no clue why – I can’t take any credit for fixing it &*@&$@*&$@Q!#!%^#^#%!%#!*&%#!*%#! I hate it when things happen without explainations!!!!! May be I am speaking too soon – I have seen too many posts where CEL seemed to have gone away only to bite back in the butt within days. Here is what happened. Till Dec 30, the light would come on within 2-3 miles of street driving (40 mph max). Put-put sound from exhuast was noticeable. Dollar bill test failed... I did hold it an inch or so away, and once in a while it would violently hit the exhaust pipe. On December 31’st it didn’t come on within 2-3 miles, so I drove more, and more…till I logged 30+ miles including 25 miles on highway with speeds upypo 80mph . Later in the day my brother drove it another 50 miles. Seems to drive reasonably smooth. The dollar bill problem seems to have reduced, though I can’t be sure. The put-put sound coming from exhaust seems to have gone away. My speculation - Not sure, but here a few things that could have fixed it in decreasing order of my guess The valves were sticking due to some dirt – as I replaced the head gasket, I removed quite a bit of carbon from piston tops and tried cleaning the coolant/oil passages - may be some of was sticking. That would explain why $ bill test failed, while engine had good compression. Though the put-put sound wasn't erratic - it seemed pretty steady...what is steady to ear might not be steady at 1000 rpm. Valve lifters were sticking due to some dirt on other side of the head – not sure what dirt made it there. I pulled out camshafts/valve lifters and changes some shims.I did put engine assembly lube on valve lifters. Dec 31 AM, I removed camshaft position sensor connector to measure sensor resistance, resistance seemed okay, put it back ini. I don’t think there was a loose connection, but putting the connector back might have done something. Camshaft sensor is on cylinder 2 intake, not sure if that makes a difference. I remove the crankshaft position sensor completely to measure resistance – hard to measure with it inside. Seemed okay, put it back. Dec 30 was very rainy – Dec 31 was humid and showers… perhaps spark plug wires…but that seems unlikely, aftter swapping 2 and 4 spark plug wires, and the problem was still on 2 on Dec 30. Does the ECM (computer) have to relearn everything since I disconnected battery and pulled out the engine for about a month – does it take time to do it ? So is what I went through normal when you start a car after disconnecting negative ? Not sure how Subaru's work - do they store data in an EPROM/flash? Even then I am not sure how long it remembers data - they must discharge over time. However, I still can't explain why it was mifiring so badly to make the put-put sound and have CEL come on within a day. Cookie, I never swapped injector connectors - just spark plug wires! I did put a screwdriver on each injector and they all seemed to be clicking.

Is there anyway of reconciling the failed dollar bill test (which would point to leaky exhaust valve) with 200 psi on compression test ?(which would imply exhaust valve is not leaking)

I haven't done cylinder 3 and 4 compression, but cylinder 1 and 2 seem pretty close. How would I unstick a valve without taking the engine apart again? Any easy tricks with lubes etc? I replaced the #2 plug. Tried swapping spark plug wire 2 and 4 to see if misfire moved to cylinder 4 - didn't work - it is still on cylinder 2. It seems to take a little longer to get the light, but I suspect that is misleading. I checked the resistance on ignition coil and plug wires - seem okay. I checked the resistance on fuel injector connector - seemed okay too... BTW, would a bad injector give P0264(265)("Fuel injector number 2 circuit low(high) input") also? Or just a misfire - P0302. Any other ideas ? I am getting desperate!!

Is there a reason to believe that it is DEFINITELY a leaky valve? Couldn't it be some other ignition/fuel injection problem ? Put-putting could be for reasons other than a leaky valve...right? The compression tester I used had a cable that screws into spark plug hole. I also did a compression test on cylinder 1 to compare with cylinder 2. It is very similar in pattern. For a blinking CEL, they recommend slowing down...why would I want to drive hard?

I am getting cylinder 2 misfire. Subaru service manual seems to indicate that 1/3 and 2/4 have same resistance. Looking at spark plug wires 1/3 seem like same wire (label says 1-3) but 2 and 4 seem different (labeled 2 and 4 respectively). Can I swap them just for test? If not, is there a simple test short of buying new wires.

How reliable is dollar bill test? Would put-put sound and dollar bill test mean ONLY a leaky valve? Could I get the same symptom if spark plug wasn't firing or injector wasn't putting in any fuel ? What does put-put sound mean? As I edited my previous post, the machine shop guy thinks I would never get 200 psi if I had leaky valves Valve lifters and shims - seems mechanical type. As I edited my post #3, I adjusted valve clearances to .009

I never tried the dollar bill test BEFORE doing the head gasket job, but I had no cylinder 2 misfire messages and no put-put sound. That lets me to conclude that it is unlikely I had leaky valves BEFORE. I called the machine shop and the guy said he took the valves out and they seemed in great shape. He claims that I would get no compression if there was a valve leak - it would never go upto 200psi as it did. Any thoughts...

It seems to fail dollar bill test...I hear put-put sound coming from exhuast and it wants to suck in the bill - I compared it with another car. Do you know how reliable/conclusive this test is? I just replaced the head gasket myself. I had new valve seals as part of overhaul gasket set and had the machine shop replace them - I guess they took the valves out to do it. Wonder if they could see valve problem if there was one or if they replaced the seals improperly.. While I did head gasket, I replaced shims to make valve clearance okay again - on cyclinder 2 it was .007/.008 on the two exhaust valves, I changed both shims to get it to .009 (spec being .01 +- .001). I did compression test a few times on the cylinder - never done one. I disconnected fuel pump and spark plug connector and cranked the engine with starter motor. I saw two different patterns. In first pattern it rises as 60-140-150-150-180-200 with each crank. In the second pattern it rises as 120-140-150-150-180-200. 1. Can anyone throw light on what these compression numbers might mean ? 2. Would an accidental paper rag left in exhaust cause a failed dollar bill test (see #4 in my first post) ? Would such a rag burn off with exhaust heat or get stuck somewhere? 3. Any other suggestions welcome before resigning to another engine overhaul - that would make me sick!

a) Does a BLINKING CEL register on the on board computer? I understand BLINKING CEL is worse than regular light. How bad it is to drive around with it? c) Any suggestions on diagnosing – I am planning doing a compression test on cylinder 2? The intriguing thing is that I had cylinder 2 misfire (stead light) a few months ago before I blew head gasket. Here is sequence of events. STEADY CEL with cylinder 2 misfire in June – I reset it, problem never occurred again. Since the same misfire with blinking was detected now, I am wondering if they linked. Blew head gasket on way to LA over Grapevine steep grade Yesterday I just finished replaced head gasket, clutch, timing belt, spark plugs. Cylinder 2 spark plug seemed fine when I replaced it. It was Bosch aftermarket before, I replaced with same Car started first try, however had smoke coming from RIGHT side (Cylinder 1/3) exhaust manifold which reduced after around 10 minutes. I ripped out exhaust manifold to see if I left a paper rag in head or in manifold, none found. I am wondering if the blinking CEL is pointing to a problem here that is not registered on computer – hence the question a) above. Took car for a spin – BLINKING CEL comes on Today OBD II reads cylinder 2 misfire

There was no "White paint" on my flyweel...

If flywheel is not keyed, what does a "zero mark" on flywheel mean? Is it inherent in the flywheel machine casting? Would resurfacing damage it? BTW, I could not find the flywheel "zero mark". The subaru service manual suggests that flywheel zero mark must be atleast 120 degrees away from pressure plate zero mark. These zero marks define the direction of "Residual imbalance" I found the pressure plate zero mark, but not the flywheel zero mark. I marked the old pressure plate/flywheel alignment and am going to position the new pressure plate zero mark at same position. BTW, the new pressure plate seems to have a zero mark at different location. If you look at the pressure plate closely, there are three almost symmetrical things along the edge. One of them has a pin missing. The plate I want to replace has the pin missing almost 180 alway from zero mark (reddish/orange on old plate). However the new oem pressure plate I got from 1stsubaruparts had a pin missing from a location approx 90 clockwise from the zero mark (yellow in color). Does anyone know why this difference exists? Is zero mark different for each pressure plate manufactured? What happens if these marks don't line up...

I am putting in a new clutch. Subaru manual says put grease on transmission shaft main spline. Just to clarify, do they mean the collar or snout (where throw out bearing rides), or do they mean the splined (grooved) surface in front of the collar or do they mean both. If I put grease on splined surface, could grease not get into clutch disc front the splined hole. I understand grease is a NO, NO on clutch disc.