gc8guy

yes BKR7E/BKR6E copper and IX at the end(iridiums) is what all the JDM owners here in Canada use

Foud my problem guys starts good now.

Someone mentioned this to me I will do this when it warms up a little more in Canadaland. Problem is If I wait 10 seconds or more between starts, the problem will come back again so the engine will be cranking 10 + times If I re-start it INSTANTLY (less than 5 seconds) then it will re-start perfectly so warm or cold it doesn't matter the problem is there in both conditions.

I'm not sure if I can hook up a scanner it's a JDM 1998 STi- I will look into this. The pump is brand new and I tried 2 other working pumps before that.

Hey guys, here is another update: Here is a comparison to my other subaru with a EJ20K Please note this car has an aftermarket FPR (this car runs and starts perfect) and the car that is having start issues has a factory FPR Also note both cards have the gauge hooked in AFTER the fuel filter The difference: Car with aftermarket FPR spikes higher (3.5PSI) than the car with the starting problem (2.8-2.9 PSI), but they both hold pressure at around 2 psi after the spike: Also, the biggest difference is when I shut off the car with the aftermarket FPR, the pressure drops all the way, however the car with the starting problem holds it at 2 psi even after shutoff Car with the aftermarket FPR: Car with starting problem:

I don't understand how would that affect starts and also my fans don't come on when cold.

I took a look at a similar EJ20 setup and all seems the same. I would also imagine my car would run like spoob while driving and WOT, however it runs perfect.

My original thread is right below, but I will also give a summary of the problem/fixed items. http://www.westernsubaruclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=35882.0 This is a 1998 JDM STi type R with approx 96k and EJ20K engine Problem: First time I try to start the car it will take approximately 20 cranks to start, but it will always start and never flood. ********************************************************************************************************** -If I leave the key on the "on" position for approx 15-20 seconds the car will start perfect. If I start the car, shut it off, then instantly try to restart it again it will start normal. If I start the car, shut it off, wait 5-10 seconds then it will take me 10-20 cranks to start the car. So the longer I wait between starts the more cranks it will take to start the car. -During this cranking process, after about 10 cranks the car goes into the following cycle: almost start, crank, and repeats until the car starts. If you ever got the timing belt slightly off this is what my car sounds like. -After I start the car it will surge for about 1 minute which I suspect to be a failing o2 sensor or possibly AICV (when I first got the car from Japan there was an o2 code stored which never popped up after en ECU reset) -Not sure if this is important, but there is an abnormal gurgling sound coming from the FPR/Fuel rail turbo side when I prime the fuel pump. -During regular driving and at WOT the car runs and boost perfect without any hesitation or hiccups. ******************************************************************************************************** Items I've changed: 2 cam sensors from a normally working car 1 crank sensor from a normally working car New 255 fuel pump with an assembly, I can hear the pump priming when the car is on the "on" position New fuel pressure regulator New fuel filter rebuilt starter working main relay Yes battery is fine(car cranks fast), there is fuel in the car, and no fuses/relays are blown. Swapped ECU from a working car New distributor New ignitor New fuel injectors (all 4 with all new seals) I did a fuel pressure test you can see in my first thread(link at the top) and there is a spike followed by a drop which is normal This car doesn't have a fuel check valve, instead there is a fuel return line. The only thing I haven't changed is the wires and the spark plugs which I don't suspect are the issues because the car runs perfect at WOT. I haven't checked the timing, but I'm assuming the car would show symptoms while driving which it doesn't. I will change plugs and try a different set of working wires, but other then that I'm out of ideas. I really need help