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Bfats25

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Posts posted by Bfats25

  1. Yes, and you can still select which gear you want to be in by moving the selector to that gear.

     

    Placing the shifter in 1 will hold the trans in 1st gear. It will not shift out of 1st even if run all the way to redline.

     

    Moving the shifter to 2 will start the transmission in 2nd gear only, and will hold it there. It will skip first gear entirely. It will not shift down to 1st, and will not shift up to 3rd.

     

    Placing the selector in 3 will allow the trans to start in 1st, up shift to 2nd, then to 3rd.

    It can then downshift from 3rd, to 2nd, to 1st.

    It will not go into 4th gear.

     

    If you run up to a high enough RPM with the selector in 1, then let off the throttle and shift it to 2 it may engage 2nd gear. If you do the same then shift to 3, it may skip 2nd and shift straight into 3rd gear. Shifting into D while going downhill may even get it into 4th gear.

     

    This will give an indication if it is a solenoid or hold clutch problem related only to 2nd gear, or if there is it a problem that affects all gears above 1, such as low line pressure, or a fault in the valve body.

    That was the first thing I tried, but the other day I tried what you said and ran it closer to red line before shifting to second. No noticable shift but when I went back down to first I noticed a quite a shift. In that case, it may be going to second, I can't tell. NO change going to 3rd or 4th.

    After I drove it i ran the diagnotic codes again and it came up with P0733 - Gear 3 incorrect ratio, as well as gear 2 incorrect ratio.

  2. Alas, this is not boding well.

     

    Could be a puter issue, rare but it happens.

     

    There are a few ways these things die that arent worth repairing (as there is an ample supply)

    - Loss of Reverse - Clutch is cooked

    - Loss of 4th (will ever slip or wont upshift) Eventually third will be lost too.- cooked clutch pack

    - Will not upshift from 1st - Pump can not make enough pressure to upshift. 

     

    On some years there is a shuft dealy from R to D but that is solvable.

     

    The next step would be if you wanted confirmation is to have a real tranny shop look at it and take some pressure readings. You may luck out and have it be a valve body issue. 

     

    You can also try disconnecting the transmission harness plug that is under the hood (I have to look to see which one it is, its a large one) that forces the transmission to go into limp mode and shift purely mechanically.  That totally rules out anything computer related

     

    Did this happen suddenly or has it been acting oddly for a while.

    I got it from an auto auction so I'm not sure what happened. There are no problems with reverse or drive, no delay, it's just when I get up to about 20mph it won't shift.

  3. Mysterious?  Since when? They are very straight forward as far as automatic transmissions go.  Phase 1 4eats you can still pull the codes on. Not terribly expensive to get a used one and put it in. Not often that they have a problem that doesnt fall into the catagories of - dirty/low fluid; Torque Bind; Shift delay; or failure.  Those are catagories not in order of incidents.

     

    I do agree whoever that there was a reason that car was in an auction. 

     

    CHeck fluid condition (look smell) and go from there, Is it being held in 1st gear or when it upsifts does it slip? What happens when you shift it manually?

    It is being held in first and doesn't try to upshift. No slipping just reving and it just seems to stay in first when shifted manually.

  4. Is it too soon to suggest he read the transmission codes?

     

    http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/44383-199-2004-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html

     

    IF there are any CEL codes note them as input from the engine sensors is needed for the transmission computer. Check the two connectors on the passenger side behind the bell housing are plugged in, and look to see a ground wire is connected at the bellhousing strut rod. Simple things like that mess up the computer. 

     

    Second stage, check the wiring harness on the transmission has continuity on each wire. They can be unplugged and done more easily out of the car, plus the connectors cleaned and sealed with dielectric grease. 

     

    Good luck, Subaru automatic transmissions are complex and not much is known about them. I bought one recently for the same money and have replaced the engine already, the transmission is getting finished up today. Subarus with over 200,000 miles aren't economically justified to repair by normal standards. 

     

    Just ask my wife. :(

    Thanks, that is my next step, to check the codes.

  5. It sounds like you may have added ATF to the front differential. This is bad, you'll need to drain the front diff and replace with 80w-90 gear oil.

     

    ATF dipstick is hidden under some hoses a few inches to the left of the starter.

    No, I was just confused on the reference point. I was referencing from the front of the car. The front differential is the one I have not been able to locate or check.

  6. Just to clarify--directions on a vehicle are properly given from the point of view of the driver sitting behind the wheel.  So in a U.S. car "left" means the driver's side and "right" means passenger's side!

     

    Good luck.  Keep asking questions here--hopefully the solution is something simple.

    Ah, Ok, thanks for the clarification. I was referencing it from the front of the vehicle.  I sure hope it is a simple fix. I'm excited to get it fixed and rolling.

  7. Replacing the radiator is an easy do it yourself job, if you are half way handy with a wrench.  You can buy a radiator on line for about $125. Ask us if you need advise on installing a replacement radiator. Lots of people here to help you.

     

    I drive an Outback, so not familiar with a Forester. Still, the tranny dip stick will be found up near the firewall. Hope that is where you found it.

    Actually the tranny dipstick was missing when I bought it but I was able to find one and replace it. I was not able to find the front differental gear dipsick (I looked where the manual says it should be, left up by the firewall). The radiator will be an easy fix but before I replace that I need to diagnose the tranny problem.

  8. I got it for $1700 bid but paid $2400 with all the taxes and fees. We bought it for a family car, I hope the trannys not shot.

     

    I checked the dipstick on the right, I couldn't find the dipstick on the left. The owners manual says the one on the right is the ATF. They could have recently filled the fluid at the auction. I also had to replace the battery and will have to replace the radiator.

     

    A couple of people have suggested that it may a solenoid that is bad or even a relay switch. Does that sound familiar?

     

    The AT temp light does not blink at start up, the check engine light came on when I first drove it.

  9. I bought a '99 Forester at an auto auction. Ran great and in great condition but when I went to drive it home it won't go above first gear. It is an automatic transmission that shifts into drive and reverse fine but just won't shift past first gear. It just reves up.

    Any thoughts? This is my first Subaru. I checked transmission fluid and level is fine, didn't smell bad.

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