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zombieforce

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Posts posted by zombieforce

  1. I have two old screwdriver s with rounded edges I use for popping out seals. They work great and dont scratch cam or crank journals. I would inspect everything first with belt and covers off. If the seals arent leaking, dont worry do them next time. Its low enough mileage that you will be ok most likely. Worst case you have to pull belt and do it again in 15k or something like that. Oil pump isnt a big deal to reseal at all. No real skill needed there just the right tools. Take yourntime use the appropriate timing marks and double check yourself and you will be fine.

  2. We have used all different kinds of pads and rotors at my shop. Currently we are using wearever rotors from advance auto parts and getting our brake pads from another supplier. We had good results with the adaptive one pads from napa until they raised the price on them. This was our standard setup for pretty much anything japanese we worked on. Only quit using napa rotors because we had too many with a shake right out of the box.

  3. So I am swapping in a non egr 2.2 into my 98 forester. Bought all non egr parts thinking that manual transmission cars didnt have egr.well come to find out mine did. Now that I wont have egr I want to find a way to fool the ecu into thinking its working or find a way to get past it. Are there any obd 2 cars without egr I can get an ecu from? Or is there a way to do it and not have a check en gine light on? I live in a non emission state but the light will drive me crazy.

  4. Yes they can I have done it when I was chasing a misfire on an xt engine. Are there any cam crank correlation codes ? I had an intake gear put on that had an egg shaped dowel pin hole so even tho it was basically in time it was off just enough to cause mis fires down low. Ran fine in the revs. Just had a bad idle.

     

    Also isnt 140 psi compression a bit low for pistons?

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