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MikeChick

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Posts posted by MikeChick

  1. Try a brand new key. The dealer can cut one with the key code (likely stamped on one of the original keys).

     

    Shawn, are you suggesting I try a new key with the existing ignition?

     

    I think I can overcome the downside(s) of a new (different) ignition switch (two keys, rekeying, etc). The remaining question is how hard is it to replace the switch in question? Is it simply a matter of taking apart the column and pulling out the existing switch? I'm no stranger to hand tools just trying to determine what I'm in for and how long it might take.

     

    Thanks to all.

     

    Mike

  2. For some time now I have occasionally had difficulty getting the key out of the ignition switch on my '95 Legacy wagon. Last week it finally let go and I can only turn the key back one click, to the point where accessories still work. The key will/does come out (not in an entirely healthy way) at this same point.

     

    The car is getting a bit long in the tooth (240K miles) but still runs great and treats me well. How difficult is it to replace the ignition switch? Should I simply buy a used one and put it in? I realize this will require different keys for door and ignition but that's something I can live with. Thanks in advance.

     

    Mike

  3.  

    I too am in need of a stereo for my '95 Legacy. How can I tell which ones (model year wise) will fit?

     

    Mike

  4. I have searched the board and found numerous topics on struts, but none to help me diagnose. I did the pushing on the bumper test it only bounches back once (which means my struts are OK), the car doesn't ride like a boat on the freeway and it doesn't lean/sway too bad in corners. HOWEVER, when I ride over small bumps I hear a knocking in the Rt. rear and sometimes in the Lt. rear. Anyone have suggestions, or further tests.

    Also, I would like to get some manufacturer recomm.s for if indeed I need new struts. I'm looking for struts for general purpose driving, nothing sporty or too stiff.

    Thanks for your help.

     

    My vote is strut mount(s). If you go here: http://catalog.autopartsperformance.com/ and drill down you'll see them. Range from $60 to about twice that.

     

    Mike

  5. Thanks, it is indeed the strut support/mount that I think is causing the noise. I agree that it makes sense to replace the struts at the same time. I just checked out '1stsubaruparts' and their website is incredibly well designed and intuitive, I'll be ordering from them. Thanks again.

     

    Mike

     

     

    Since you have to remove the strut from the car and the strut support (that's the part you're talking about) from the strut and spring (need a spring compressor if you do it yourself) to make that repair, I think you should replace the strut altogether if they have never been replaced. At 200 K They should need replacement in a short while if not right now.

    You can get a reasonnable price for OEM struts and hardware at 1stSubaruparts. That's were I got mine when I replaced them this last summer.

    Good luck!

  6. My '95 Legacy wagon (200K+ miles) makes a clunking noise when I travel over "sharp" bumps. It would be most noticeable on, say, washboards on a dirt road. I did some looking/asking and I'm thinking it's a worn mounting/bearing plate on the strut(s). Is this common? Seems I've heard a similar noise in other cars with tons o' miles on them. Am I on the right track? Can I get these plates aftermarket or is it a dealer item?

     

    Mike

  7. OK, I'm going to replace the timing belt, water pump and thermostat in my '95 Legacy. I've been seeing a lot of posts that say OEM is the "only" way to go for some of these parts. Just so there's no confusion on my end, OEM means from the Subaru dealer, correct? OEM parts are (shockingly enough) considerably more expensive but if the consensus is that it makes sense to go that way, I'll defer to the experts (you guys). Please advise.

     

    Mike

  8. Id go for the clogged heater core also,I had this happen on my old trusty 1800 wagon,after much flushing and more flushing the brown mud out I turned her on and in 5 minutes I was enjoying sweet warm toasty air.

    Thanks, I'm thinking both of these things (weak water pump, clogged core) are possibilities. I'm a reasonably good wrench swinger, is changing the pump pretty straightforward? As for flushing, should I just get one of those aftermarket kits for that and do a "normal" radiator flush? Thanks again.

     

    Mike

  9. My '95 Legacy wagon has .206 million miles on it and is still running like a champ. I'm having a problem with heat and that's a big deal here in VT. There are times, with the car sitting still, that even though full hot is selected all I get is cold air even though the engine is clearly warm and the temp gauge shows a normal (mid range) reading. If I rev the engine for a short time the heat will come back and all is well. When I'm driving I never seem to want for heat, it seems to be only when at or near idle. Any help would be appreciated.

     

    Mike

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