Houston505
-
Posts
25 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Houston505
-
-
The link from capn_r is THE list of all brands, sizes, and makes of wheels that will work on the 4x140 lug pattern - minus a couple that are stupidly more rare than rare.
I see it now, was only showing a few Subaru tires on my phone.
-
How are your terminal connectors? I know I didn't tighten my + side up enough once and the dash would light up but it wouldn't start. I would check all the wires running to your battery and work back to see if there's an abrasion or loose connector somewhere first.
-
I guess I should have asked, what wheels from other vehicles will fit? I was hoping to find some at UPull but didn't know where to start. I'm currently riding on the stock P175/70R13's with all four hubcaps.
-
I'm wanting to go with a more aggressive wheel and tire on my 92 Loyale, any recommendations? It's 4 lug and I didn't want to have to mess with modifying the hubs, are there any styles that will bolt right on?
-
Just finished the headache of getting all the emissions codes cleared so I can get Lola('92 Loyale) registered. Had to replace the purge and EGR solenoids and the EGR valve. Swapped the existing Bosch Platinum plugs (in the car when I bought it) to NGK Copper+ and threw some new wires on as well. The car seems to like the NGK's a lot better than the Bosch's. Next step is a new cap and rotor, and front axles....
-
Now on to the fun stuff!
-
Had to step away from it for a few days before I drove it off a bridge, lol. I finally got rid of that pesky CEL! Had to try 3 different EGR solenoids before I swapped connectors on one of my purge solenoids and stuck that in there. CEL is gone and I'm not getting any other codes, so hopefully no more issues with that.
-
Swapped solenoids, car seems to be running fine but the CEL is still on and it's giving me the same code (34). Do I need to clear the code to get the CEL to go off? Also, my Chiltons says to clear the code you just plug the read and memory connectors together, but it doesn't say if or when to unplug them....I'm very close to having a Loyale bon-fire...
-
After I put the new solenoid in will the CEL just go away or do I have to clear the code?
-
Based on what I've read, and my bad one, you will find that the solenoid's coil is open.
Use a ohmmeter, remove the PCS connector, and check the solenoid's resistance. Should be ~35 ohms. It will read infinity (open). Coil is bad.
Bad news: dealer wants over $110 for it.
Good news: it's the identical unit as the EGR solenoid that sits right next to it, with the exception of the wire connector. You can get one from a junkyard or wherever and cut off your old connector, solder it on to an EGR solenoid, and it fits perfectly . Bolts right in place, hose connections are identical and everything.
And, I have a local source for a few new EGR solenoids. Call A&G Import Auto at 360.385.0002 in Port Hadlock, Wash., ask for Tony, and he'll set you up for a lot less than $110, and all you have to do is solder two wires. Mention Al Savage and he'll only jack up the price another $10 (for my cut, you understand :-p ).
I did this myself last week, and posted about it here.
You're supposed to run the D-check procedure. Warm it up, shut it off, connect both the D-check green connectors and read mem connectors.
(edited later: I left this part out: Turn on the ignition, verify that the CEL light comes on, press accelerator to floor, then back off to half throttle for two seconds, then release it completely.)
Then drive it constantly above 5 mph for at least 39 seconds (yeah, I know). CEL is supposed to blink, indicating no codes found.
If, after about two minutes of driving above 5 mph, you get the CEL light again and it's not blinking, it's done with the diagnostic mode and it found another code, which you can then read. On my rig, I sometimes get a 51, Faulty Transmission Inhibitor Switch. Balls -- switch tests fine. Maybe it's intermittant, but it's sure no fun to get out and work with: I've done it once.
Is the pressing the accelerator down before or after plugging the two connectors together?
-
Status: I pulled a few solenoid valves ( and a vapor canister for S's and G's) put them in and no more code 35. However, now I'm getting code 34, EGR solenoid/valve. I put a brand new EGR valve in it and am going to try a few of the solenoids I pulled yesterday to see if they'll correct the issue (waiting for the car and weather to cool down a bit first). I did notice when I put the new purge components in, my idle seemed to be A LOT smoother than it was before, but after shutting it off and starting it again the idle was rough and that's when I pulled the code 34. I know on newer cars if you have a CEL on it will rob some of the power or make the car run different, is this the same with the ea82?
-
89 problems and a switch ain't one!
-
That's my plan of action now. Go to UPull and grab 2-3 solenoids and see if any of 'em will fix the issue. If that doesn't work, where do I get a 35ohm resistor and will that pass emissions? They never do a visual inspection here in NM
-
Only solenoid circuit electrical faults will set the code.
Even if the solenoid is stuck closed or the vacuum lines are broken or plugged code 35 will not be set.
It has to be the solenoid,wiring harness or computer.
Pretty safe to assume it is the solenoid,but,they are easy to test.
The purge solenoid has vacuum, that's why this is driving me nuts!
-
Visuals always help me so here's this. The line circled in red on the left is the one that can't be sucked or blown through. The line circled in blue is the one that runs to the purge solenoid, and it seems to have plenty of vacuum. The third line, in green, from what I understand is the incoming line, which I blew into that one too and there was no air coming out either of the other hoses.
-
Could it be the vapor canister, or the two way valve inside the vapor canister? Should the line coming from the purge valve on the canister have any air movement through it? I pulled that hose and gave it the old Lewinski, but there's absolutely no flow through it.
-
First off, thanks for your response! This whole having to pass emissions stuff is fairly new to me, I grew up in the sticks and was never needed before. So, the purge solenoid is hooked to the vacuum vent line from the vapor canister(I think). I pulled the hoses off the canister and the one that leads to that solenoid(which is similar to and near the EGR solenoid) and that hose seems to have plenty of vacuum. The hose next to it, which connects right underneath on the canister (purge control valve itself I'm guessing) has absolutely zero air flow through it either direction.
-
I have a '92 Loyale ea82 that is giving me error code 35, which seems to be the evap. purge control valve. I checked all the lines running to it and they're all in good shape so I think it's the valve itself. My question is, can I buy that individual valve or do I have to buy a whole evap canister? Looking at it, it doesn't look like the valve (or what I'm assuming is the valve from multiple diagrams) comes off separately from the canister.
-
Great info! I tested my 92 Loyale EA82, and it came up with a Purge Control Solenoid Valve code. Now, do I have to buy a new evap canister, or can that valve alone be replaced? Also, will that itself, or the fact that it's throwing a code up, make the engine run any differently?
-
I would like to know where you can find ethanol free gas.
-
Those are some awesome cars. Here's my little bit of nostalgia
-
2
-
-
I'm a new Subaru owner as well, '92 Loyale Wagon, and from what I can gather they're fairly easy to work on yourself. I'm not too far from you here in Albuquerque and these states are perfect for Subaru's, plenty of places to put that 4WD to good use.
-
Thanks! Eventually I plan on making it bigger and faster, but for now I'm just working on a basic tune up and replacing the EGR valve so I can pass emissions.
Had some of the original manuals and documents with the car, thought that was kinda cool.
-
Just bought my first Subaru, it's a 1992 Loyale, and figured this would be a fantastic resource for me in my future endeavors with the car. It's bone stock right now, I'm working on getting it running smooth for a daily driver at the moment but hope to do some mods in the future. Any tips, tricks, or intimate Subaru knowledge would be appreciated.
Loyale 4WD won't engage
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Just went through the same thing. I unhooked the vacuum lines when I was changing the fuel filter and hoses, forgot to hook 'em back up.