danielzink

Hey All, Title kind of says it all. I have a 99 Forester with the SOHC 2.5 (with *another* popped HG).... I "happen" to have a 90,000 mile 1990 EJ22 sitting in my garage. I've done a bit of searching and I've seen mention that it's do-able...but yeah - I'd like to maybe drop the EJ22 into the 99 and make it run again. What all is involved ? Anyone have a quick and dirty run-through ? Thanks, Dan

mods please delete - moved to correct forum

I suppose I'm also confused as to the lack of a second O2 sensor ? Any input ?

See above post - codes have been cleared. To address your point - I replaced the entire filler tube 2 years ago as *yes* it was completely rusted through. I purchased and installed a new gas cap at the same time as filler tube replacement. Thanks, Dan

I cleared all the codes via the Torque app. At this point (approx 100 miles) no more codes have appeared. I'm going to order new wires from RockAuto and plugs and do those when they arrive. I also bought some MAF spray cleaner from the local FLAPS. Thanks, Dan

Starting this winter the wife's car (99 Forester) when starting in the morning would run like it had a fouled plug. After about a minute it would "clean out" and run fine. CEL has been on since then. I had "assumed" it was a bad O2 sensor(s). I ran my Torque app this morning and pulled these fault codes: B0303 - Body B0304 - Body C0000 - Chassis C0304 - Chassis C0340 - Chassis P0304 - Powertrain Cylinder 4 misfire detected P0404 - Powertrain EGR control circuit range/performance P0420 - Powertrain Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1) P0440 - Powertrain Evaporative emission control system P0483 - Powertrain Cooling fan rationality check P2043 - Powertrain Reductant temperature sensor circuit range/performance Also - upon further inspection it looks like the car only has (1) O2 sensor ? Or am I not looking in the right spot for the second one ? Any advice is welcome ! Thanks ! Dan

Hey All, 1999 Forester. I had a check engine light come on the other day so I stopped by my local FLAPS and had them bring out their reader. After many tries they finally gave up - their reader just would communicate through the OBD plug. I decided to try and pull the codes manually and when I got under my dash I found that the black diagnostic connectors were already connected. No idea how long I've been driving around like that...I've owner the car for about a year and I know *I* didn't connect them. So....2 questions. 1. Could this have been why their reader wouldn't connect to the ECU and 2. Would driving around with them connected for an extended period of time do any harm (to anything ) ? Thanks !

Probably trans cooler lines... Pour some distilled water into the rad and see if it drains out the two nipples. If it doesn't - you're good to go. Cap 'em off or loop 'em. whatever. Dan

The picture that shows the "shoulder" of the bolt sticking through the pulley......is the old bolt.

Great thanks ! Just wanted to make sure it was okay to add a washer. Dan

Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem or if it's just my luck.... Got the mizumo timing kit from the 'bay for my 1991 EJ22. stock pulley: with bolt: Mizumo pulley: with bolt: case is threaded all the way to the outside - there is no inside step to take up the "shoulder" of the bolt. Any ideas ? Thanks. Dan

1990 EJ22 Yes. Mine is leaking. Thanks Caboobaroo and Su bah - I ordered a couple off the 'bay. Will get it installed this weekend. I have a slide hammer so I'll try that first. Dan

Okay... I'm diving into this re-seal project. I've done a search but not coming up with anything.. On the drivers side rear of the head - there's a big black metal cam plug. How in the world do you remove...and replace it ? Thanks, Dan

Try here: http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewforum.php?f=19 Here's a couple Fastbacks: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=614476 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612042 http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=142788 I myself own a 65 Notchback (with a 2300cc Type 4 motor) and I'm currently working on converting my street legal sandrail from a 1600 type1 motor to an EJ22 suby. Dan

You're way ahead of me here I haven't pulled anything off yet - I'm still in the process of making sure that everything is copacetic before even beginning to loosen the tensioner....

Okay. Tried to get a better pic. Let me know if you still think it looks off. Car was running that the motor came out of. To be truthful - I don't know how well...but..it was running. Motor is going into a Dunebuggy.. I started up the car - checked for any overtly bad noises and smoke....deemed it good - drove it on the trailer - took it home backed it into the barn and stripped it (91 Legacy Wagon).... Tensioner was not released in these pics... Thanks again for your help !

I've read through page 547....taken dozens of notes....printed out articles... And I'm still second guessing myself...... I'm getting ready to do my first EJ22 belt and pulley replacement (Mizumo kit) and engine reseal (1stsubaruparts order)... I know my marks are right...and I should just disregard the paint marks on the belt correct ? Thanks for your patience with a noob. Dan