blue91legacy

So thinking that a business could actually help me with things they actually do and specialize in until the time they close is somehow open to interpretation? Very interesting view point. I know if I was at work and told the customers I couldn't help them because I didn't know how I'd be fired. Guess it doesn't work that way at interstate battery. Also this happened in today's world and todays times. If someone asked a person managing a hotel if their dog bit people, they would know there was a dog there and fearing a lawsuit would tell them that isn't their dog and to be beware if they even allowed dogs in the lobby. My point is that its no use keeping the doors open and staying open if you can't help your customers for the entire time you are open. if you can't you need to have a sign or something informing your customers you can only help them for certain times during business hours not the entire time you are open. if you feel I'm being silly expecting a business to be able to do what they advertise they do for the entire time they are open. Then we simply disagree. I am not changing my opinion. I feel I have a very valid, logical and reasonable expectation.

here is the back story on my car. I bought the car on a craigslist ad. The ad said the car wasn't running but that the problem was either the camshaft or the crankshaft sensor. Once the bad sensor was replaced I'd be good to go. I bought the car because I once owned a very rusty Subaru many years ago (a 1986 or 88 Subaru XT) and it always started and always ran and I never had to even invest a cent in it and it would start on the coldest days and go throw enormous snow drifts easily. I needed a reliable winter car and thought I'd buy this one and then save up and have it fixed. I took it to the mechanic to find out why it wouldn't start. he did a compression check, found cylinders one and two to have zero compression, called me and told me it was junk and that the motor was blown. he said either the timing jumped or the belt broke and killed the engine. he then pushed it outside, called me and here we are.

Thanks. I appreciate the info. I just found out minutes ago that number 1 and number 2 cylinders in my subaru have no compression what so ever, none. The car is junk now. Guess it no longer matters.

I bought a trunk mat that says LEGACY on it from the junkyard. It came out of the cargo area of a 1996 legacy wagon. I have a 1991 legacy 4 door. I assume that subaru is like any other car company and kept the wheel well area and such the same and merely extended the roof to create the wagon. Based on this logic I'm assuming the trunk mat will fit my car. I am only speculating. Anyone know if the trunk mat from a 1996 legacy wagon will fit my 1991 legacy 4 door trunk area? I also bought the console cover lid top to replace my broken one. it came out of the same 1996 legacy wagon. Again I'm assuming it will fit my 1991 legacy 4 door console. I'm also seriously considering buying the spoiler with built in 3rd brake light from a 1999 subaru legacy and am assuming it will fit the contour of my 1991 legacy trunk lid. If it is different it shouldn't be by very much I hope.

I got the cables and went off to interstate battery to drop them off and have new ones made since they said they were open until 5pm and it was only a little after 4pm when I got there.When I arrived they said everyone who knew that stuff had already went home for the day. What's up with that? If that's the case your supposed to tell your customers so they know. I called ahead of time at 2pm and asked specifically when they closed while talking to the guy who was supposed to be there and he said they were open until 5pm. If you leave the place and only have dipshits there who can't help your customers and your supposed to be the best battery place around but your employees don't know a damn thing about batteries, battery cables or anything to do with batteries then tell me what time your leaving, not what time your open until. I spent two hours freezing my jiblets off, trying to locate, then remove battery cables, since interstate couldn't help me unless I knew the cable length, where the cables went, and the cable size and how thick it was and what guage it was made from. Telling them my year make and model of my car and my engine size isn't how they do things they told me. So I bought these cables so they could have them to see what I had, drop them off and get the whole process of getting battery cables made moving forward, just to be told no one is there who can help me until tomorrow. Ain't interstate battery too cool?

I need to know what tools I need to remove the battery cables on a 1991 Subaru legacy. If I had the car here I could just go out to it and figure it out but its not here right now. I want to have the tools needed to remove the cables today and get them to interstate battery to have new cables made. I called the Subaru dealer and they said that the positive and negative cables are all one part. Then they told me it would need to be ordered and was $96 some dollars. I even had to give the last eight numbers of the vin. I can have new cables made that are longer, are better quality and a bit cheaper for that. So, why not?

I want to get the car running. Once I get it back from the mechanic and hear what and if he found I'll begin planning things. I know the cv boot is tore and my mechanic already thinks the car is only worth three hundred dollars no matter how much money I invest in it and so I don't expect much from him other than finding out why it doesn't start and then a whole lot of you need to replace this, this, this, this, this and this and a lot of expensive quotes. I want to keep the car but I need to see what its going to cost to get it running and road worthy. If the front end repair (cv joints, etc.) and engine repair costs get too high I'll try and find someone who is willing to work on it with me. If I can't find someone to help me work on this thing then it will likely just sit. I look forward to hearing back from the mechanic sometime this week and look forward to trailering it back home sometime in the near future. If the mechanic is of little help I will simply save up and begin with the timing belt, timing belt tensioner and water pump. from there I'll do the oil switch, crankshaft sensor, spark plugs and then see what happens. I'll be buying a battery from the junkyard soon and hope to find a complete negative battery cable in good condition somewhere. There are no good negative battery cables in the junkyards around me, I looked. I want to replace the entire negative cable as mine is not in good shape due to someone else screwing with it trying to "fix it" the half rump roast way. The end of the cable never stays tight on the battery. I can get it to stay on and the engine will crank over but I need something in good shape if I'm going to drive it someday.

I love how helpful everyone on this site has been. I was convinced I was going to sell the car before joining this site. Now I'm likely going to keep it and try my luck seeing if I can get it running or not. As for the miles on the car....well....it has really high miles on it. 206,000 miles. The car is medium blue in color with blue interior. It is a 4 door, not a wagon. I bought it because of the price and because I owned a Subaru many years ago and it just wouldn't die..a 1986 or 88 Subaru Xt maunual transmission car.

Thanks. I appreciate the info.

Thanks. i'll check that fuse once I get the car back from the mechanic, as stated earlier, it's not at my house now. I had it towed to the mechanic last week Thursday. I do know a decent amount about cars, but you must remember I've never owned a Subaru and know nothing about their habits, problems and typical issues. Every car has its own things that typically go wrong and things to look for. I joined this site because I knew there would be people who know the car and what to look for. So far I've had a lot of responses and I am quite gratefull for all the help. I'm not going to lie though. I am not comfortable enough to just tear into the job of replacing a timing belt alone without any help. I actually like the car and don't want to tackle the job without some sort of help. At least I now know there are kits and parts available for the timing belt as kits. I am a bit confused too. I thought the crank sensor was located just under the alternator. That is the sensor I removed and found all the oil on. I also removed the sensor on the driver side of the engine block assuming this was the camshaft sensor. I googled the location for each sensor for my year legacy and it showed the location and even the size wrench needed. Now hearing the oil light switch is under the alternator I am confused. It is nice to hear that Subaru legacys are user friendly cars. I'll likely keep it now. Even if I can't get it going in time to use by this winter.

I guess this car may prove to be a bit more than I can handle. I don't have the tools or knowledge or the heated indoor space to tear into the items such as timing belt replacement and the time it takes to tinker just to get something to act up and make the dash flash then count the flashes and such. it sounds like a million things could be the problem with the oil coated crank sensor and just to have the engine cleaned and the problem found will be expensive. then to have the gasket or such replaced will likely be pricey. I know just the crankshaft sensor part alone is $200 plus the $70 labor just for that one item. I'm beginning to wonder if I shouldn't just sell this car. I know it has a torn cv boot and it sounds like to get the thing running will cost more than what I can buy a running car for. I guess I'll wait and see what the mechanic says. But if its as pricey as what it sounds like it will be, I'm selling this thing. Good thing the body is in good shape.

If I had a heated indoor place I think I'd attempt it just for peace of mind due to the cars mileage. if the timing belt isn't yet broke perhaps it'll hold out until the warm weather returns next summer. it's cold here already, temps are 30-40 degrees and its raining every day. Surely someone out there knows why the crankshaft sensor is coated in oil. What causes this problem? Is it expensive to fix?

I think the timing belts ok. if it turns out that the timing belt is broken I'll likely try and sell it as is since I can't afford to pay the outrageous amount shops want to replace a timing belt. they all want to replace the timing belt and the water pump and the serpentine belt and they want close to a grand to do it. I'll find another car before paying that. However....the old owner claims to have had the timing cover off and says the belt is not broken. I took the car to the mechanics shop since I have no way of looking it over indoors nor the knowledge of subarus or the tools needed. I have no way of knowing if I'm correctly timed just by removing a cover and was told there is no computer code hookup because my car is too old, a 1991. the old owner checked the cars computer and also changed it. To be honest my biggest fear and question is...What is causing all that oil to have built up all over the crankshaft sensor so as to completely coat it in heavy oil?

I recently (two weeks ago) purchased a blue 1991 Subaru legacy 4 door with an automatic transmission and a 2.2 liter 4 cylinder motor. It has 4 wheel drive. The car turns over but will not run. I was told it was either the crankshaft or the camshaft sensor. I replaced the camshaft sensor with a used one from the junkyard from a car that supposedly ran but had a misfire. I have had no luck in getting any good advice just lots of guessing and that if I replace all these different parts eventually it should start. I don't have the money to just throw parts at this thing. I had it towed on a flatbed to a mechanic for $90 and hopefully he can find it since I don't have the means to diagnose it myself. I just bought the car thinking the price was right and these cars are supposed to be reliable so I figured if I got it running I could drive it this winter. I also can't seem to figure out how to get the wires of the crankshaft sensor to get free since they run under the intake manifold and replacing the sensor and running it the same way as the old one is currently run seems impossible. Both the crankshaft and the camshaft sensors are able to be removed and neither is corroded in. The crankshaft sensor was completely covered in black oil, some stuck on, some still runny. I wonder what caused this and if this is what made the sensor fail. I wiped off both sensors completely. the camshaft sensor only had some stuff on the very end but nothing major. The car has 206,000 miles on it.