kvaleras

Both boots are torn in half, and I hear the clanking sound from around the driver side tierod. That's the reason. Oh, and this is one of the reasons my Subie didn't pass the DC inspection. Thanks!

Hello all, I have two questions: 1) Can anyone give me an estimate on replacing both rack-and-pinion boots? I called around and was given anywhere from $100 to $200 per side. The car is Subaru Legacy L 95 FWD. 2) Does anyone know a reliable mechanic in DC area? I am willing to travel if it takes that. Thanks a lot!

Well, unfortunately (or fortunately), I don't have ABS. What I noticed though was torn boot on the inner end of the left steering gear. Could this be a problem? Or maybe that's just a coincidence? Thanks!

Hello! Some time ago I noticed the noise coming from the front of car while braking at 55+ mph. It wasn't bad, plus it turned out brake rotors were badly worn. So I replaced them, and there wasn't any noise. Well, not for long. A little after rotor replacement, the noise came back on, only louder, and at 40+ mph, and sounded like metal clanking, sort of a blacksmith sound. Last week I replaced brake pads, but nothing changed, only I noticed the noise becomes louder and especially when I brake while turning right. What should I look at? Can I somehow inspect weel bearing? Thanks a bunch!

Hi, all, A couple of days ago I replaced the coolant temperature sensor on my Legacy. Today ``check engine'' light came on. Went to the Autozone, pulled the code: P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem What could it be? I suspect it is related to the latest repair - I removed the big hose connecting the air flow sensor with the throttle body. Am I right? Thanks!

Thanks! Took me about 1 hr 40 min to replace the sensor (turned out I didn't have a 19mm wrench - had to run to the Lowes :-)). Val.

Dear all, I wanted to replace the coolant temperature sensor on my Legacy L 95, and searched the forum on that subject. Found plenty of helpful information, however it is not really clear if one needs to drain some of the coolant. Some say yes, while others don'y mention anything about that. So, if the cooland needs to be drained, how do I do it? There are several members of the forum that do not recommend draining through engine block drain plugs. If not through those, then through thermostat? Or something else? Thanks a bunch! Val.

Thanks!

Hi, all! If I take off the a/c belt, will it change anything dramatically (e.g. the balance of forces on the crank pulley)? Thanks!

Well, the thing is that my subie is OBDII equipped. That's why I bought the scanner in the first place.

Hi, all! I recently purchased a basic scantool for OBD II from Harbor Freight (CEL was on for some time). When I tried to read the codes, here's what I got: 1) It displays ''LAUNCH'' (as it says in the manual). 2) Then it shows three dashes, then pauses, then shows the fourth dash and then it gives ''E''. I know there a trouble codes in my ECU (I flushed them couple of times - thanks to all your advice, users). Anyone who uses or used the mentioned scantool, I need your help! Does ''E'' mean empty, no codes? I do everything that is said on the manual, but maybe I'm missing something? Is there a chan ce the scantool is not suitable for my car? Thanks!

I have the same problem. It started vibrating like 3 weeks ago. I replaced brake pads 2 weeks ago - the vibration didn't go away. The interesting thing is that vibration didn't go away after I did rotation. Could anyone give me some advice? Thanks!

I'm currently at 128,000 miles.