dangerous

Yeah it's the P0420 code. Is the fuel filter in the fuel tank on this model, and not servicable? Haven't got my hands on a repair manual yet.

Ok thanks. Wondering how difficult that is to change myself. Watched a video on youtube but not sure what kind of vehicle the dude was working on, and couldn't find a video specific to an 07 Outback. Does anyone happen to know which other year models have the same mechanical configurations? Just bought the car up in Denver (Where they do emissions testing) last week the guy at Auto Zone who did the diagnostic thought that maybe the change in altitude might have something to do with the oxygen sensor not reading right. He had suggested using a catalytic converter cleaner to run through the gas. Would this possibly solve the problem or just be a temporary fix? What he said also is that the quality of the gas we get down here is quite a bit lower than what they get up in the Denver area so if that's the case do I need a sensor that can accommodate that?

Hi my cruise light is blinking, and the cruise control stopped working. Tried what it said in the manual to try to turn it back on (that is to turn it to acc or lock then back on to the on position. It didn't say to push the cc start button or anything though) as I think it got turned off when I had a diagnostics run on it but it did work before that. It had just turned it on and it shut off when the check engine light came on which is why I went for the diagnostics which turned out to be that the catalytic converter sensed it wasn't running optimally. Would the fuse have fried when that happened? If so which fuse would it be? This is the 2.5 engine not the turbo

So there is a 04 that had the head gasket replaced was resurfaced and the guy is telling me that the gasket that was put in was whatever the dealer recommended. Would that have been an OEM turbo gasket that the dealer recommended? The car has 216 k on it and he's asking $3600 also has new timing belt, valve cover and intake manifold gaskets, water pump, plugs/wires, serpentine belt, and cv axles both sides. Anything else I should be looking for or good deal on this car? I did look at what KBB said what it's worth through private owner or what a dealer would sell it for, but I figured that the values they said did not include the work it has had done to it.

Thanks for all the info folks!!!!

Looking to get a 00 to maybe 06 outback wondering if there were any particular years that have the least amount of problems with them?

Hey Fairtax haven't had the time nor the weather cooperation to get after it, but yeah no voltage coming out of either relay power is going in though. Will have to check the power to the ignition coil when I get the chance. Much funner car to drive than my rattle trap gas guzzling truck!!!!

Don't have a code reader, and the starter cranks just no spark

Have the power coming in to both main n FP relays, but none coming out even though I've tried 3 different relays in each. Wouldn't have thought all those relays could been fried, but maybe when a friend was changing them out they could of if the battery wasn't disconnected? FP relay does click now though when clutch is depressed, and there is power going to ECU through the yellow wire pin 85. Anyhow it's still quite the head scratcher, and I wish I could get it running!!!!!!!

Tnx Fairtax I'll check that stuff out once I can get a day where it's not raining!!!!

The ignition switch was a thought a friend had come up with, and I'm 50 miles from the nearest parts store it was the easiest to get. I could put the old one back in easily enough

I've checked all the fuses they are fine, and I have power to the yellow wire on the fp relay. I jumped the power from where I had it coming in from behind the first split by the steering column over to where it was coming out from behind the heater core area where there wasn't power. Also have power to the r, y/r, blk/y, but not to the b/r coming out of thenew ignition switch I put in. The weird thing about that switch is there are 5 wires coming out of it where the old one only had 4, but the guys at Auto Zone had called a dealership who had said the 5th wire didn't matter. So it's looking like I'm gonna have to pull the dash back off, and maybe try to get in behind the heater core area huh? Problem is the big wire packet that is attached to the dash that is keeping me from getting it totally off thus making for a tight work space. I see in the book that the b/r wire goes to the clutch switch haven't gotten around to doin a test depressing the clutch, but it should have power coming out from the ignition switch even without doing that shouldn't it? Should add also that i had considered replacing the keylock cylinder, but opted for the igntion switch first as it was easier. The key had been a bit screwy in the cylinder though I'd have to play with it to get it out. Figured it was just a funky tumbler, but wondering if that could have something to do with it?

I had it grounded to the same spot to test the incoming n the out going, and I did not hear the relays click at all. I have 3 of each relay that I've tried also wouldn't think they'd all be bad.

97 legacy outback have power to both those relays, but with key in on position there is no power coming out of either. Actually .65 or so on one of the main relay ouputs but none on the other tried other relays also. Doesn't make sense to me!!!!

Power is going in behind the heater core area, but no power coming out. There is a single wire coming out to a double wire split, and one of those goes to the triple split that powers the relays.

I've got the power al the way up to where it goes into where I can't get at it. Then when it comes back out there is no power, so thats why I was thinking that I'd just jump it over to that point. Then "hopefully" I'd still have power going to where ever the short is, and then also going to the relays, and back to where the short is on the other side? Tnx Frtx4me

97 legacy outback. So pulled the dashboard since I do have power coming through the firewall and up to the multi wired plug. Traced that wire to a split with two other wires, and power there. Then traced the wires from the relays back through where those 3 red wires join 1 then it goes back to another slpit that come in with another wire to a single wire no power there, but then that wire goes in behind the frame n the venting n such so can't go futher. Wondering if I should jump from the power coming in over to where I don't have power?

FT4M does the red wire coming thru the firewall inot the plug only feed those relays, and the juntion to the other stuff off the FP relay line? Could I splice in directly from the red wire coming in to the wires comin in to the relays? It's a real beast trying to get to the other side of that plug even though I cut it free I still can't pull it down far enough!

FT4M thanks that is what I have been thinking, because I do have 12v at the plug just not beyond. What I have been thinkin is getting the plug down checking to make sure there is no power on the other side (which I'm pretty sure there isn't) and then rather discarding the plug just jump from the red wire coming in to the 3 red wires going out to the relays. The reason for saving the plug being with the numerous other wires going into it I don'tknowwhat else I may be cutting off ifI remove the power from it?

Well there's 2 red wires coming in 1 goes to the fuse box which is workin, and the other is the direct line from the fusible link that is hot at all times. so I do have power up to that one to the plug but none beyond which should be hot all the time to those relays. Just gonna have to get back in there Sat. n see if i can find the bolt your talking about.

To begin with have no spark at the coils I have two other posts on here from yesterday, and last week that explain what is going on. Plus the things I've tried already

I've got power to the red wire coming in through the firewall going into an 8 wire plug. This is where I think the 2 red wires come out of to the main relay, and the one red wire which goes to the FP relay. There currently is no power to either relay while key is in on postion. Don'tknow what to do cause I couldn't get the 8 wire plug with the power going into it to release so I could check for power on the other side. Really in a pickle here cause I gotta have wheels to work?

Should add that although I was trying to get the whole 8 wire plug which the red power wire from the main fuse box to come down so I could test the 3 red wires coming out of it that should be going to those relays. I couldn't get it to come loose for the life of me! How does a feller get that off the plastic housing it looks like it slides onto?

Been tracking down the electrical prob I seem to be having as there is no power to the red wires coming into either one of those relays. Thinking that the prob could be at that 3 way junction the schematics show? Can find the red wire coming in from firewall going up into a plug, but it's so tight can't really make out where the other wires may be coming out. Do I need to pull the dashboard for this? 97 legacy outback. Just tested the red wire coming out of firewall going into the plug n got 11.48 v with key in on postion. Wondering if I can jump from the red wire coming thru the fire wall to 1 of the red wires going into the main relay, and will that power up the other red wire to that relay plus the wire going out to the FP relay along with the junction on that wire which powers up many other things as they are all coming out of the one junction where it splits to three going to the 3 relays and the other connection which does all the other things?

FT4M for what reason might we not be getting power to the red wires on the main, and fuel pump relays? Have power to yellow wire on fuel pump relay, but none on the red. Would running a jump wire from fusible like to the main, and fuel pump relays fry anything else? The schematics show 1 red wire coming from the fusible link and splitting into 3 that go to those relays. My friend thinks the problem might be at the junction where the red wire splits coming from the fusible link to the main, and fuel pump relays and over to the fuel pump? Is that a pain in the neck to get at?