[2007 Impreza - knocking sound in the back]

Hi Subaru gurus,

 

A question for you. My 2007 Impreza, SW, 115 k miles, manual transmission, developed a knocking sound coming from the left rear end of the vehicle. It happens especially when turning left and accelerating at the same time (on lower gears) and goes mostly away after driving 2-3 miles. Immediately after start, it even happens when accelerating (without turning). Turnig by itself (without acceleration) does not iniciate the sound. Originally, my feeling was the nocking is from the inside, so I checked things lik the spare, jack etc., even tried to squeeze a piece of sponge to the back gate to prevent it from possible vibration, but no result. So, any ideas? Rear axle? Suspension? Bearing? Would apreciate ideas.

 

Thanks, Michael

Michael,

 

My Subie had a knocking sound that sounds much like what you are describing. It turned out to be bad struts in the rear. the knocking sound occurs as the shafts shift around inside the cylinders.

[Heated seats fix?]

Just bought a 04 Outback, my first Subaru. Heated seats switch doesn't come on. I checked the fuse behind change tray. What's the next step? any ideas? What's my next step?

I had issues with my '98s heated seats initially. Pulled the seats out, pulled the covers off, the element was burned in two in the forward center part of the seat. Tried soldering a bridge wire across it, did not hold up for long. Ultimate solution was to use a crimp-style connector on each end of the wire to bridge the gap. No problems since then.

[98 legacy outback overheating]

I just installed a used  radiator in my 98 legacy outback and it will run at normal temp. for awhile then it will start to overheat. it will push all the antifreeze into the resivor. if i release the pressure on the cap it will start to run normal again.every once in a while i lose heat for about  1 or 2 minutes and the antifreeze seems cold not hot. ive been told it sounded like a air bubble in the system any ideas?

After reading the entire thread, I would say most likely cause is head gasket.  The '98 2.5's were notorious for blowing head gaskets. 

They could blow at any time from recently replaced to over 75K miles. Never was very predictable on the "when" part.

The most reliable solution I've found anywhere is to replace the entire 2.5 engine with a 2.2. Only real side effect is the check engine light stays on because the 2.2 has no EGR system.

[97 Legacy won't start]

Legacy wouldn't start. Seem to not be getting fuel. Plugged in a scanner and got 336 and 325 codes. Crankshaft position sensor and knock sensor. Replaced the crank sensor but still wouldn't start. Noticed that the wires to the plug that goes into the sensor we're exposed and very worn. Couldn't find anyone who has this part. Guy at Subaru had trouble finding the part said they would call back when they found it. Still haven't heard back. Pulled two plugs from the junkyard and tried splicing each of them. Still won't start. Don't know where to go from this point. Are there other issues that can come from a 336 code? Has anyone had this problem with their Subaru? Any help and suggestions would be great. Thanks.

Have you cleared the codes and then checked that they re-set?

Is it getting fuel? Can you hear the fuel pump power up when you turn the key on? Is the fuel system pressurizing properly?

And like the others said, check the timing belt. Make sure to do all of the zero-cost checks before throwing money at hit-or-miss possibilities.

[Bogging, bucking, surging 97 OBW]

It ran fine yesterday and today, so I can't duplicate the concern. There's no good way to test a MAFS so it'll just have to work until I can get to the junkyard Friday. I'll pick up a "new" MAFS and hope that works...

Had a similar problem recently with mine here in Montana. With the onset of Winter, I started getting misfire on 2 & 4, plus a knock sensor code.

Replaced the knock sensor with one from a junkyard, code went away but problems persisted.  Replaced the plug wires and everything has been fine since then.

NOTE: there was no physical evidence that the plug wires were failing, they looked good on visual inspection.  Don't trust your eyes when it comes to bad wires.

[New to me 99 Outback with a 2.2 install]

Thanks for the replys.  I will change the trans fluid and filter next chance I get.  The motor came from a 98 impreza so it would be an interferance motor.  The guy that did the swap told me the belt looked new and to wait 60k.  He would do the pump and belt at that point for $300.  Thanks again

Does the 2.2 swapped in have an EGR valve or is your check engine light perpetually on?

 

Just curious, because if no CEL and no EGR, would like to know how this was achieved.