nitroman58
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Posts posted by nitroman58
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I went with the 2 ton aluminum jack from Harbor Freight. The 3 ton jacks were just so big and heavy. This is a picture of it lifting my wife's 14 Imprenza.
I hope that 16.75 inches is enough to raise a 17 Forester for brakes.
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Thanks again. Let me take a picture and post it to be sure it’s the right place.
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Thanks for the replies. I do have jack stands, but I have to check the weight rating.
It looks like most of the floor jacks from Harbor go to about 18-19". I don't know I that would get me enough height for the tow hooks on a Forester.
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I am looking for a jack to do an occasional brake job on my 11 & 16 Forester's. My old floor jack only goes up about 13", which works for a sedan but not an SUV. I prefer to have something separate than the jack provided by Subaru. It looks like Harbor Freight has the best selection for my needs. There is a 2 ton floor jack. Obviously, I do not need or want low profile for these cars.
Thanks.
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Having a new front main seal, installed correctly, go bad after three months is about as likely as you finding a hundred dollar bill in their parking lot... more like a stack of hundreds.
Them telling you leaks other than the shortblock is a pretty skinny scapegoat since all the gaskets would have to be replaced for that repair anyway. Camshaft seals, which would have been at their discretion, would be about the only thing not required to replace, but probably should have been under good will. Likely, those will magically be where the oil leak is coming from.
Much, much, more likely that something didn't get tightened down, or was installed incorrectly in both cases.
All that being said, it was pretty good of them, and Subaru, to cover a shortblock on a 6+ year old car, so if they treat you good otherwise, it might not hurt to throw them a LITTLE bone. But definitely ask lots of questions, like EXACTLY where the oil is coming from and why, after they had the engine completely apart for the repair, and every gasket and seal would have been replaced or inspected and found fit for years of service.
Okay, I will ask a lot of questions. Also, for what it's worth the short block was done per the class action lawsuit settlement. I feel that if I contact the Subaru headquarters then I may get more attention, but i don't want to annoy the dealer either.
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Back in April of this year, the dealer rebuilt the short block on my 2011 Forester because it failed the oil consumption test. The car seems to be running fine, but then I notice that there is a burnt oil smell after I shut the car off. So in July, the same dealer takes the car in for another week and to repair a leak in the front crankshaft oil seal. Now, I do not get the burnt oil smell, but the car leaks oil. The oil leak seems to be coming from the front of the passenger side. I call the dealer to mention this, and they tell me that if it is coming from the short block they will address, otherwise it is my responsibility. The car did not have an oil leak to begin with.
So to summarize this problem, I start out with an oil consumption issue, and now have an oil leak issue. This whole issue is getting very frustrating. On one hand, they did all this work at almost no cost to me, and the car is running great, but now I have oil leaking from underneath the car.
Should I take the car to the dealer to see what they say, or should I contact Subaru at this point?
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If they're covering the repair why does it matter what it costs?
Yeah, I guess your right. It's just annoying, that I have to take it t get it fixed, and go back there to get reimbursed. It's the time issue.
I am due for inspection in March, so I made an appointment for both.
Even though Costco does free rotations, I may just do it myself. The jack that I have is not quite tall enough for that car however.
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Over the summer, I bought a new set of tires for the Forester from Costco. Today, I went back for a tire rotation, and the guy in charge told me who ever put the tires back on the car cross threaded 2 of the lug nuts. They had to break the lugs to get the tires off. Apparently, they said that the technician may have put the lugs in the gun before starting the threading on the car.
They said that they would reimburse me on the expense. What do you think this would wind up costing?
Do you think it is worth going back to dealer for this? I am concerned the other lug nuts could have damage too.
Thanks
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Over the summer, I bought a new set of tires for the Forester from Costco. Today, I went back for a tire rotation, and the guy in charge told me who ever put the tires back on the car cross threaded 2 of the lug nuts. They had to break the lugs to get the tires off. Apparently, they said that the technician may have put the lugs in the gun before starting the threading on the car.
They said that they would reimburse me on the expense. What do you think this would wind up costing?
Do you think it is worth going back to dealer for this? I am concerned the other lug nuts could have damage too.
Thanks
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I took the pads off, and sprayed the rotor with brake clean. It is better, but still some squeal. It is just the right side.How bad is it scored? I would just remove whatever was caught in there and keep running it.
BTW, it is an 2011 forester.
There is a good video on you tube, showing how to do the rotors. The pads have plenty of life too, but replacing them is not cost prohibitive.
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The right front brake was squeaking, so I took a look at the what was going on. It looks like something must have gotten between the pads and rotor, and caused some scoring. I called my mechanic and asked if they could grind them. He said that they just replace rotors these days.
I was looking at rotor prices on Amazon, and they are fairly reasonable. Does it seem like replacing them is the best option?
I have done pad replacement before, but have not done rotor replacement. I was watching a few video's on you tube, and the job seems pretty straight forward. I would guess that it worth changing the pads even if they do not need them?
Thanks.
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Timing belt & water pump done!
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Mileage is 102,000. Plugs have not been changed since we owned it, which was 83,000 miles on it. Because my son is away at college, it is hard to deal with this from a 200 mile distance.
Plugs should be reasonable to change, and ask the mechanic to check the rear O2 sensor correct?
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After dodging the issue of the P0420 code for about 8 months, my son's car really starting to run terribly.
I wanted to find out if there are any aftermarket catalytic converters that someone would recommend.
I want to get another 2 years out of this car. I have heard from one mechanic that the aftermarket converters are junk. It would be hard to justify spending the money on the Subaru brand, since his car is probably worth that amount. The car is not running well at this point, so I have to make a decision this week.
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About a year and half ago, I bought almost the identical car, with 83K. The mechanic said 10 years or 100,000 miles. I bought the Gates kit from Amazon, as per the recommendations here.
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I have heard that the Geolanders are a softer rubber. I guess that I must be easy on tires, since I have 45,000 miles. After reading reviews on tire rack.com, I am leaning toward the Michelin A/s Premiers.
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So far, I have 45,000 miles on the original Yokohama Geolander tires. About 6 months ago the tread depth was 5/32" so I may be looking for tires over the next few months. I have been really impressed with the Yokohama Geolanders, and my only complaint is that I have had a flat which was been plugged twice. At my Costco, they do not carry this brand, but they do carry both the Michelin Defender, and the Michelin Primacy MXV4. I have found the Michelin tires to be be very good as well. I last had the MXV4's on a Honda Accord and Civic.
Has any one put the Michelin MXV4's on their car? Any comments otherwise?
Thanks.
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In doing a google search on other web sites, this appears to be a somewhat common problem. Some others have stated it is a $300 part, which I do not feel would be worth replacing. Does anyone have any suggestions? Do you think that Subaru would repair it under warranty?
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Are you looking for performance? Or just a decent set of replacement pads?
Just a decent set without the squeal.
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I am sure that this has been talked about previously, but I wanted to find out if there was a good brand and source for pads on my 11 Forester.
Thanks.
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Thanks for the info. The dealer mentioned the plug/patch also. I will go that route next.
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I have had a tire plugged a few times, but it seems to last only a few months at most. Currently, I have 45,000 miles on the original tires. They are in good condition otherwise. Someone was telling me about the circumference of all four tires being within 1/4". Can the dealer evaluate that?
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Thanks, I just watched a video on line. It looks as though you do not even have to remove the glove box. A couple people commented that mice have gotten in theirs. It is definitely worth taking apart.
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Recently, the fan on my son's forester stopped blowing hot air (and probably cold although he did not check it). We checked the fuses today, and they are all okay. Any suggestions for what the likely cause is, and about how much the repair would be?
Thanks
Replacing the rear view mirror in a 2011 Forester
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by nitroman58
I want to replace the rear view mirror with compass and auto dim in my Forester. The Subie part # is H501 SSA101. Could anyone tell me how to remove the old mirror? Since the new part is the same as the old one, I would think thatI could just use the same cable. Is that correct? It looks like this car uses the non standard "cam-lock" mirror mount.
Thanks