Khamier

Thanks a lot Fairtax, it was the 24-pin connector, I pulled it out and it looked like the inside of a 10 year old flashlight with batteries left in it. The black/yellow wire was so corroded it broke off at both ends of the connector as I pulled it out. Also, the blue/red wire broke(any idea what that is for?) I patched both of the wires and tested it : 12 V !! So, I went back to the junkyard and got the controller back from them plugged it in and everything is working awesome! If only I had seen that wire before I tried to open the old controller, I might have saved $40. But at least.... it's working. That's 2 problems you helped me with this week, thanks a million. Now I can open my windows and smell gasoline-free fresh air. Awesome!!

Thanks, do you know where the relay or fuse is for this?

Looking at this diagram, points 7 & 12 are power/ground, and the rest are for the switches. I put a meter on 7 & 12 but only get 4V. Should this be 12?

I returned the switch to the junkyard, but I have to wait until they have someone to test it. Does anyone know what the voltage should be going into the switch? I think I only have 4V when I test the 2 center plugs on the main connector. Shouldn't it be 12V? or is there a resister before the connector? This switch is very difficult to separate(open) without breaking, it's the square one, not the long rectangle. I took apart the old one and broke it, I'm shy about taking apart the new one as it cost $40. Thanks for the responses and advice

Hey, A few months ago, my drivers window started acting erratic. Then, when it wouldn't work, the switch would buzz. But repeatedly pushing the button, the window would eventually go up or down. Then the switch quit working. It wouldn't raise or lower any of the windows. Each switch at each other door would still work for each window, but the driver's master switches wouldn't work. I took out the master switch and then none of the window switches in the car worked. I put in a used master switch, and all the other switches work again, but the master does not work, and the green LED does not light up. Could the replacement be a bad switch? or could this be a different problem? Thanks any advice you might have. Khamier

Thanks a million guys, I'm fixing this up right now!! From underneath the car, it was hard to tell that it was rubber, but after taking out the seat I see what's going on. Really appreciate the quick responses. Kham

My Subaru 1995 Legacy has a fuel leak. The leak is under the car, right in front of the driver's rear tire. There is an oval part with 3 pipes going through it and 3 hoses connected to it. One of the metal connectors is leaking, and I need to replace it. I cannot seem to figure out what the part is called, it is beside the roll over valve and the fuel delivery hose, return hose and evaporation hose go through this part. Can someone please help me identify this part : Here is a picture of it looking from underneath the car. Thanks Khamier