dejmall

So, it was a pump. I visited a junk yard, and found one to replace my on a vehicle with 100k miles less then my Suba. Transmission is assembled back now and I had a short test ride. I saw AT light flashed 16 times, but maybe because I haven't enough AT fluid in it or maybe because of "AT test harness" was connected in test mode. Anyways, Ifilled up the fluid and disconnected test harness and tried to start and drive, I didn't see any issues but only sort of vibrations on turns. I think it was discussed here on forum, so I can double check it later. Car got new spark plug wires, fuel filter, AT fluid filter and fluid, pump relay and fuel pump nice upgrade lol

Update Part I: Ignition/Fuel Pump I see power is coming to Pumps Relay (verified with a light bulb) I can't get a power in to the Fuel Pump plug. I tried to put brand new relay or paper clip instead, I tried to test a plug leading to the Fuel Pump by using the same bulb (stop light) inserting the wires to pin 1 and 2 OR pin 1 and ground but got nothing. - Should I try to bypass the wiring between relay and the pump? - Could it be restricted by taken down the transmission parts ? Part II: Transmission "valves plate"/"solenoids plate" assembly I still looking for advise in which order should I put the springs back in? There are 4 "pistes"/"chambers" in a part which is still attached to the car, three of them has an inner diameter which is corresponds with the springs. So I used it as a clue. I put it back today in the following order, from front of the car to the back: smaller spring, bigger spring, middle spring, nothing. I don't have an AT fluid in it yet. - Can anyone confirm I did it right? There is a horizontal "piston" which was connected to the rod. Unfortunately, I'm not sure how to connect them back together. - Can I force and pull the rod closer to that piston? - Should I put any other gear instead of Parking to make it easier? Thanks. I'll provide the pictures tomorrow if needed. P.S. Just watched the video and noticed the same rod I'm talking about even it is not a Legacy's AT.

Good evening. I've tested if the power is coming to a fuel pump and got nothing. Then i moved to a fuel pump relay and saw got a positive sign from a relay plug. Please, see if I've correctly identified the relay? Please, advise me if my assumption is correct. I'll do replace relay and fuel filter, then. And, back to transmission part . I'd like to ask where those springs belongs to? I found THIS page, where I can see 4 springs.... But I'm sure I've got only 3 fallen on my face... any thoughts? How can I determine which is belongs to where? please help P.S. I'll put back a new AT fluid filter and gasket, it is obvious. But shall I put a new fluid as well? or 50/50 with an old? Should I put Lukas Tran. Fix "Stops slips " adhesives? What would be your suggestion? Thanks.

I'm not sure if all tensioners were changed as well, I can check an invoice... I didn't get anything coming from a hose leading to a fuel filter. UPD: no tensioners in my invoice for timing belt change. UPD2: that video and its description is very good and explains a lot. I'll check tomorrow if I have a juice coming to pump and if so, then I need to replace it. I think I'll need a new fuel filter too?

All, thanks for quick response. I have timing belt changed last year. Spark plugs and cables are new. I have an update: I have a spark on all plugs. BUT, I don't see a fuel coming to a fuel filter. I've disconnected an out hose first and then intake hose and nothing happened when I turned key in to ON position, neither when I tried to start an engine. So. I guess all fuses are good (will double check it), then it means that Fuel pump or fuel pump relay has an issue? How to find out? "so stop ripping parts off it!" - sir, I promise I won't! I just want to put it back in a right way Back, to my second question. I'm OK and can agree with guess that AT is OK. My question is, who knows where belongs those 3 springs which are fell out when I disassembled a "cage" (a platform with the valves) + Gasket, very tiny gasket is in a middle that cage is falling apart, sort of. Can I just ignore it? Please, see where pointing my finger. P.S. "in your video" it wasn't my video, just a same noise.

First of all I apologize for my English. Here is the story. My car has 240k. A week ago I was returning from a trip and the car died on a hwy on an uphill part. It just lost RPMs, and my next attempts to start was good, but I couldn't move. Car made an attempt to go, but died again. I tried a few more times and it was worse and worse, finally it stopped start at all. (I did saw an AT light flashing, but I didn't notice how many times it was, and it is not flashing anymore (since I wasn't be able to start an engine)) Few days before that happened it was difficult to start an engine some times. An engine has always started, but randomly, it took too long time to spin the starter before success. I have never had major shifting issues, but sometimes it took a while until switch from 2-3 or 3-4. My dipstick was showing too much AT fluid (no coolant loss). So, I had my car towed to home and I discovered that, when key is in position ON I can hear a buzzing sound coming from a bottom of a car. I started my research. I think there are two issues. One is the engine won't start issue and the other is the AT issue. Engine doesn't start issue: I have new spark plugs and cables; I'll test Ignition Coil today and update the thread. I want to ask how I can test if the fuel is going to chambers. I tried to check the spark plugs, they were dry (I guess). I removed some parts from AT (filter, cage with solenoids) Can I still do the attempts to start an engine? Maybe in FWD mode? Or should I put everything back first? AT issues. As I mentioned there was a noise, exactly like that NOT MY VIDEO. But description is seems to be similar. I drained AT fluid, and tried to put a key in to ON position and see better where is sound coming from. I marked two valves as I'm guessing one of them could be a trouble maker. I was under the car and had a key in pos. ON. I had AToil filter down, so I was able to see how the drips of AT fluid are fountains from those valves. Now I have that cage taken down and I can make a pictures and probably test a resistance or I don't know. Here are the questions. What should I do next? P.S. I tried this http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/diagrammatics/tcu-diagnosis-connector-96-1.gif but no codes came up.