lostalfos
-
Posts
15 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by lostalfos
-
-
TOD comes and goes, until the cause gets bad. 10 w 30 is thin and doesnt help for an ea82 unless you are in very cold climate. How many miles and years are on the oil pump and it's seal?
These engines are made to spin fast, not lug. If I'm near wide open throttle at 3000rpm, I often downshift.
Most of the stones in a can rattles I've had were loose beat shields on the exhaust.
A small exhaust leak can sound similar to TOD, but will dissappear instantly any time you let go of the gas pedal, TOD won't. I've never had one come and go, just slowly get louder over time.
i think it's safe to assume the oil pump and seal have never been changed. it's a '92 with 190k on it.
-
hmmmm.....the efficacy of diagnosing a noise we can't hear?
your description looks like TOD - comes and goes, varies wildly. that's standard TOD.
lower end knocking won't go away like that.
ah the rattling - the marbles in a can while you're driving up a hill? that's common and largely benign - downshift if you're lugging the engine too much.
that's not TOD though, you can have the rattling and no TOD.
thanks!
yeah, $500 sounds about right.. i replaced the timing belt and water pump around 10,000 ago. so i don't think i need those again. any else you can think of that would be good to replace in that area?
-
I don't really know why I welded that there, I think I had a bigger idea but now I just don't like it. I want to redo the bumper this summer as my wife surprised me with 6" KC Hi lites to put on there. How much did you pay to get your windows tinted, just curious.
Scooner, sorry it's been so long to reply. i found a groupon for $270 for 5 windows. it was the best deal i could find. everywhere else was 400-600. hope you found a good deal!
-
Guys! there's so much info on here about this notorious tod. but i guess i'm curious because the videos i've seen to listen to the sound are all very persistent with a steady tick.
i'm reading up on it because... well, i have it. i've had it for a few k's now. it is getting louder. it stops abruptly, then fades in. and sometimes, it doesn't happen at all, but does usually more and more so now. doesn't tick on the highway.
the idle jumps up from 700 to 1200 and back down to 700 over and over. not always. it used to always, but i found a small hose disconnected from the charcoal filter with a mosquito clogging the end of it. removed the mosquito, replugged the hose, and the idle returned to normal. that was about 9k ago. now, it's doing it again, but the hose is still connected. i'm a little baffled.
do these sound like TOD symptoms? i've read it might be a small exhaust leak?
oh yes, also, it makes a delicate rattling sound from under the hood whenever i'm using lots of gas. for example: climbing a hill at a low rpm.as an after thought, my mechanic told me that this particular tick might not be the tick of death and could be something internal with the engine, in which case, paying to fix the TOD would render futile. although, he did not hear the tick, it's only been described to him as i have to you.
i recently replaced the oil i use synthetic 10w-30 and used a little seafoam to see if it might help clean things up. but to no avail.anyways, i'd really appreciate some advice before i fork over the $500 to get the oil pump replaced. thanks dudes!
-
Funny, I saw your picture and thought that looks similar to a picture I took haha. I want to modify the bumper and take off that awful part that sticks up. Eventually, any more plans for yours?
Interesting, what is that part that sticks up all about? well, i just got the windows tinted and am planning on lifting it 2" in the future, getting some decent tires too. I thought about a black hood. Some brighter lights is going to be a necessity. unfortunately my headlights are suuuuuper dim atm. maybe corrosion issue or something from the previous own leaving is outside.
-
hahah! nice whip! sweet bumper...!
-
So the final decision was to drill the wheels. The hubs seemed risky and like more work. Here's how it went:
Step 1: Very particularly find drill points
Step 2: Drill tiny holes
Step 3: Gradually drill larger holes until 9/16th bit
Step 4: Drill an angle for the lug nut
Finished drilling:
Step 5: Grind an extra few millimeters into the center to fit over the hubs
FITS! I like the look.
aw yeah:
-
1
-
-
No, the center hole in the rim will not fit over the bumps on the hub.
What I do is bolt it up loosely, mark the 4 points on the circle where it hits, then use a Dremel with a cylindrical stone to take out about 1mm off of the edge of the hole.
After doing this the wheels will fit on fine. Did this for a set of Mazda wheels for my XT. After tires mounted and balanced I had no vibrations at all driving even at 90+ mph.
The Nissan rims pictured above do not require this. Those are my favorite 14s to use....with the Mazdas being a close second
thank you! i will anticipate this.
-
Yeah the Mazdas need a few mm taken out of the center holes and then they fit fine.
Just a few mm at the 4 points where the hubcenter ridges hit.
Can you explain this a little more? do you mean the 6x139.7 vs the 4x140 is off too by just too much?
-
I suppose drilling the rims is easier. . . already mounted with 195/75r14's. I'll have to think about it. will post pics of decision and process.
-
The 195/75/14 tire = 25-1/2" diameter. My unlifted '88 Wagon is running 195/65/15's that are just under 25" diameter. They fill the wheel well but don't rub any.
Yours are narrower than mine, so you should be good.
That's good news. Have you noticed any rubbing when you go over any formidable bums or dips on the suspension?
-
Drill the rims not the hubs.
My $.02
I have heard of this option. Why do you suggest that? I figure the hubs are stronger so drilling the hubs would leave you with more integrity. Where as the rims, being thinner, would take more of an impact with extra holes.....
-
Hey guys! I'm new here. But I've been reading up a lot here lately since I recently grabbed a 1992 Loyale for a good price. All of the tires are out of round and I'd really like some better options than the 13" stock wheels allow. I also don't want to have to lift it.
So, I've already got some 14x6" wheels from an old b series mazda. I'm thinking the tire size should be around 185/75r14. Initially I was looking at a bfg tire 195/75r14 all terrain t/o ak, but was worried they'd rub against my suspension...
I can rent a drill press and angle grinder by donation from a local tool library.
Some of my questions:
Is there anything else I should know about before removing the hubs? i.e. rotors... drum brakes..
How can I recalibrate the odometer and speedometer?
Is this going to compromise the structural integrity of the hubs? Will I be totally safe, even off road?
Does anyone have a good idea of if the 195/75r14 would fit in the wells?
Any input and/or direction is so greatly appreciated!
is it the tick of death?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
cool thanks for the tip! i'll try that first since it's the least expense.