Snerp

Well my starter and fuel pump work. We tried starting it up yesterday and it wouldn't fire up. Ran the starter and fuel pump directly off the battery, and had the ecu on it but I couldn't figure out how the ignition should be tied in. I'm pretty sure that's all I needed. Anyways, everything was spinning free and couldn't see any reason other than the wiring it wasn't firing up, so I'm going to continue on with the body work and tackle the final wiring after with the help of a mechanic friend.

Thank you for identifying the location. That will make my life easier. Do you think I can dump the vent straight into the canister and be done with it or do I need to do something with it past that? I believe I still have the VW separator as well. Also, the topic of the shielded wire was brought up. The previous owner sliced an diced it. Will using unshielded wire for a test run be acceptable? My main goal still is starting the engine to make sure nothing major is wrong.

Every day I have had off it rains. It's pretty lame to have all these parts just sitting around. I've got the air intake sorted out. I found a cast aluminum 180 "U". I'm running it up and over the top of the engine. I'm using a modded specter MAF adapter. I'll attach the MAF to the body. It's a very tight fit, but it's in there and actually looks pretty good. I'm trying to figure out the fuel system. I guess super beetles use a charcoal canister that is no longer available as part of the evap system. I was just going to vent it, but from what I read there should be a way to tie it back into a vacuum line? I'm not 100% on this and would like some more info if anyone can help me out on that one. I found this info on SBO!: http://www.superbeetlesonly.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=747 As always, thanks for the help!

Yeah, seemed off just by looking at the wiring diagram. Turns out my electronics background came in handy. I wonder if the incorrect coil made the car run badly and that's why the previous owner was able to pick up the GL-10 so cheap. I've got the coil on order. I just went with the one labeled for turbo. The only thing the service manual had as far as a part number was E12-99 and I couldn't find a matching number. It should be OK though. Multiple sites list it as a correct match. I should be able to get it wired in and make a run at starting her up on Thursday...As long as I can convince the wife to let me work on the car on a day we both have off. Thanks again for the help everyone. It is much appreciated.

I suppose I should reference my service manual for the proper coil.

Hmmmmm both coils are the same and have 116 on them. One looks more beat up than the other Here's pics of the other coil: I just ordered a cone air filter setup and want that on before I start it up anyways. I'm really glad I had to take apart the MAF because it had saw dust past the filter! Not just a little either. I'm going to get her cleaned up tonight. :EDIT: Got the MAF all cleaned up. Should I buy the 85-86 coil? It looks like there are a few choices. These are the two I am looking at. Says W/HITACHI COIL in the notes. Specs: Coil Can Diameter: 2.18 Coil Can Height: 4.38 Coil Can Overall Height: 5.73 Coil Wire Attachment Type: 1 x male spark plug cable and boot Color/Finish: Black Plastic, Black Steel Configuration: Conventional Hardware Included: Yes OE Replacement: Yes Primary Resistance Range: .9 - 1.6 Secondary Resistance Range: 8.5k - 14.0k Terminal Type: 2 x 10-32 stud and nut exposed Voltage: 12 v http://www.amazon.com/Wells-C899-Ignition-Coil/dp/B000BYB98C/ref=sr_1_22?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1430271145&vehicle=1986-13-60-67--1-1-8-3175-114-6-4-448--2-0&sr=1-22&ymm=1986%3Asubaru%3Agl-10 This one says specifically for TURBO. Specs: Coil Can Diameter: 2.13 Coil Can Height: 4.7 Coil Can Overall Height: 6 Coil Wire Attachment Type: 1 x male spark plug cable and boot Color/Finish: Black Plastic, Black Steel Configuration: Conventional Hardware Included: Yes OE Replacement: Yes Primary Resistance Range: .7 - 1.4 Secondary Resistance Range: 6.0k - 11.0k Terminal Type: 2 x M5 x .8 stud and nut exposed Voltage: 12 v http://www.amazon.com/Wells-C877-Ignition-Coil/dp/B001KSIBCA/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1430271126&vehicle=1986-13-60-67--1-1-8-3175-114-6-4-448--2-0&sr=1-8&ymm=1986%3Asubaru%3Agl-10 Which is the correct choice?

Thank you!

OUCH I just ran outside and took a few pics.

Ok, I've still got a rat's nest of wires, but I have almost everything hooked up. I just want to make sure this engine is running and then I'll make it pretty. I have the fuel pump, coil, battery and ignition left to go. Then I'll finish fuel and cooling lines and try to fire her up. I thought I was missing the knock controller unit. After a tantrum I remembered another box of wiring and there she was. Pretty funny. The coil wiring seems a little off, I'm wondering if it isn't a coil off another car...I believe I saw two around here somewhere. I need to take another look tomorrow. Also, where does the boost and vacuum switch tie in? I'm having a little bit of a tough time with that as well. Not really seeing where the line goes in my diagrams. I'll keep searching the manual though.

I got started on the wiring a bit yesterday and did a little today. I was trying to salvage what was already done by the previous owner, but I think I will go ahead and pull apart all of the systems and start over. He was working off the wrong diagram and that became apparent. No disrespect to him though...This was a tricky one to figure out. So it looks like I have the wiring for fuel injectors, air intake, ignition, turbo/vac, and temp sensors. Am I missing anything?

Pics of the ride, engine, and a pic of the dist. I still can't find anything on the dist itself. There is a brass piece that is hanging off of it in the back of that pic, it reads 5615. Don't have time to look that part up so I can sound smart...heading in to work again lol. Also, quick question: The cooling system should be Alu, correct? The previous owner was planning on running copper. I want to stick with one or the other, for obvious reasons.

Those numbers were on the coil. There is a big white "H" on it as well. I'll hook up some pics tomorrow probably. I'm running out the door to work.

Yeah, Dist was a little grubby. All these parts I have came out of the same running car or so I was told. No reason not to believe the guy. He was pretty up front about everything. I think he just maybe got the year wrong. 86 instead of 87. It would explain why he was having trouble with the wiring. The coil has this: E12-116 12V

Ok, I tracked down the full 1986 factory service manual. Got it for $62.50 shipped. Not too shabby considering some sites want $120 + s&h. I searched for separate sections and pieced together the whole manual from different sellers. I will scan in the wiring diagram for anyone who may need it in the future. Thanks for all the help!

What years would work for me? Does that mean the donor car was actually an 86 GL-10?