trainergames
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Posts posted by trainergames
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Well i had posted about the car a couple times before,and the car is a car that got flooded some(but not enough to get into the engine).
With a fresh battery the light come on and the windows still roll down,but when i try to start it all that happens is that the lights dim,does not crank and or even click.
If it helps i do have a cheap multi meter but not sure where to check.
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Well i finally got it off and had it checked and it works so where should i go from here to see what is wrong?
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what size is that bolt head?
14mm....maybe 12mm but pretty sure they're all 14.
14mm or 17mm
It's an m10 x1.25 thread, but often the lower starter nut is a 17mm head if it's the nut on stud. If it's the pass through bolt (MT) it will be 14mm.
Top and bottom are both 14mm.
i've never had a problem with basic tools - it's annoying you can need some can-do attitude to go at a nut that's hard to see, but it's there and accessible with some effort and snaking around throttle cables and hoses or whatever.
are you sure it's even the starter? did you check if it's getting 12 volts and signal wire?
if it is the "starter" replace the contacts for a few dollars and keep your original high quality starter over the aftermarket stuff. very easy to do and the most common wear item on a subaru starter.
I removed the washer fluid res, and i can get my socket on but then i have hoses and steering in the way,i tried a 3in extension and the same things even more in the way.
I tried 2 3in extensions and i can a lot better hand grip,but can't get the socket to stay on because the mount for the tranny dipstick is in the way...
Any advice?
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Ok i am trying to get my starter off so i can take it to autozone and have it checked, so i can start working on getting this car revived...
But after getting the top bolt off i am having trouble finding a way to get down to the bottom bolt.
Keep in mind i have a basic tool set and currently only have the jack that came with the car...
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fixable.
Might need to replace the ECU (it's under the passenger side carpet)
Change all fluids
engine oil, differential and trans fluid, rear diff fluid, brake fluid, and expect to need to do wheel bearings.
other than that there is no reason to junk it if you can clean it to your satisfaction.
Thank you for being on my side.
I was thinking i might need to replace the ECU,but i am going to remove the starter tomorrow or Friday and try to take it to a parts store to test.
If it was bad i will replace it,if not i will replace the ECU.
I already checked the oil for signs of water and it was fine so i plan to leave it be just long enough to get the engine to start,once that happens i plan to replace all fluids even the oil,and mabye coolant.
I am expecting the wheel bearings,which kinda sucks because we replaced them just weeks before the car flooded...
I am hoping to document the rebuild via pics/text and also video when possible,but think i need a name for this project,any one got any idea's?
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I am asking because a lot of family and friends are telling me to not,and that it's a lost cause,but i have my own reasons for wanting to.
I thought that asking
My reasons are one i think it is fixable,also i could of fixed my first years ago,but i didn't and sold it to someone who crushed it...,i have regretted not just fixing it ever since,and am worried i am going to regret not at least trying...
Plus i really loved this car...
I have been asking on here and elsewhere and we think why it won't start is that the starter is bad.
Also once i get the engine to run i would then get all the fluids changed,and then start getting rid of the smell and mold...
If it helps here is a link to pics of the water line.
So what do you guys think?
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Ok my current Subaru is not currently working and will take some time to fix it,because it got flooded.
Well i am going to be car shopping on Wednesday the 14th,and there is a Subaru on the site of the dealership i will be going to,and i will be looking at it among other cars.
I just would love to know what to look out for on this Subaru so I know what to look for to make sure i am getting a good car.
The car is a 2002 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon(Auto Trans) with 114K Miles,and according to the CarFax it has been in Texas all it's life.
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Look in the Owner's manual for info on the key. If it's chipped you'll need it 'married', I believe. Most key makers - which includes Home Depot, etc. - can check for 'chips' (and they'll charge you a bunch more for a chipped key).
And considering there's always 'some' power to the ECU and it's mounted under the passenger's feet (correct?) it's likely fried.
P.s. You DID check your fusible link, correct?
I chekc and my car has everything that came with the car new,other than the Owner's manual...
Where would the fusible link be located?
If it helps at all when it first happened the battery was dead and would not take a charge,i replaced it,and all the lights and stuff work,but when i go to start the car the only thing that happens is the light dim,but that is it.
How high was the water line? Was it running at the time of the flood or was it parked?
If water got above the axles, it'd be wise to change all fluids out, including the rear diff.
With battery disconnected, I'd pull the carpet, seats, and kick panels, and ideally leave fans going for a couple days outside unless you can get some really hot dry heat (temp control garage, portable oil-filled radiant heater-no exposed element) and let that just evaporate all moisture on the wiring. Everything needs to be completely dry.
If it actually sucked water and stalled, it's probably trashed. If water DID seep into a non-running engine, it'll like have rust from the internal water level. Would be wise to pull plugs and check for cylinder wall rust (and water).
It was parked when it happened,and the water level got to half way up the speakers in the door.
I checked the oil and there was no water in it,and no water got in the air box either...
I have the carpet pulled up on the ECU side let it dry in the hot texas sun,and i have been keeping the windows down with it under a carport.
Also there is little to no mold on or under the carpet,most of the mold it has was on the seats and dash from water in the air at the time...
If water got in the ECU, it got in the wire harness too and corrosion will eventually cause so many problems you'll wish you just got rid of it. It won't be reliable, and unless you pulled all the carpet out immediately to get it dry you'll have problems with rust in the floors and mold/mildew in the carpet, seats, and any area where moisture collected and wasn't drained/dried immediately after.
Well i really want to at least try,because the my first car was "too far gone"and i to this day still regret selling it and not trying harder to fix it...
I pulled the carpet on the ECU side within 2 day of the flood,and it had aired out with the windows down in the Texas sun,and other than some mold on the seats and dash form the humidity,i have seen no signs of rust or mold on or under the carpets.
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Nah, you’re out of luck. But the engine should be fine. How long have you let it sit since being flooded? Is this from months ago or recently.
Take the ECU apart and let it dry out, preferably lay it in a bag of rice or desiccant
What year? I can mail you an ECU for $30 if it’s a 1996-1999 legacy/outback
Www.car-part.com
I’d its 2005 and up you’ll need the dealer to marry your new ECU to the vehicle, keys and FOBs. Roughly $100 for that service
It is from months ago, it is from hurricane harvey.
It is a 2005 Impreza 2.5 RS(Auto Trans)
But will i still need to have the thing done if my key looks basic like this one?
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I am asking because my car got flooded in the flooding in houston Texas and i i think my ECU is dead.
I don't think any water got in the engine,i just want to make sure it still works,so i know it is fixable.
Because i i know it will start i will do my best to keep it.
Money has been kinda tight and i have been having trouble finding a ECU nearby that i can afford.
The only one in my town is over an hour away by car(if i had one lol) and they want $120 for it...
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if your 2005 has an immobilizer then you can't just swap the ECU like you can on 04 and earlier models.
for parts in general though:
www.car-part.com and the cheapest one shows up on your doorstep rather than driving, walking, looking, striking out....
I don't think it does,how would i tell?
+1 on Car-part.com....I'd add your '05 is 'unique' in that it's the 1st year of the return of the MAF-based systems of the EJ253 AND the year prior to the i-avls variable cams on the '06+ models..
I'd bet you're limited to ONLY '05 Impreza non-turbo and MAYBE '05 Foresters, and it needs to match your transmission.
I do have a question for you guys.
I have been thinking it is the ECU,but a coworker thinks it might be the starter.
So my car got flooded in Texas it got up to the speakers in the door.
I already checked for water in the oil and there was none.
At first it had no power at all so i bought a charger and tried to charge it,it had no effect.
So then i bought a new battery and now it's getting power the radio,lights and windows all work.
But when i tried to start the car stuff dimmed like normal,but nothing happened, no clicks or noise of any kind.
What do you guys think it is?
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I'm asking because i am trying to repair my car and it needs a new ECU.
I was looking at a local Pick-A-Part and they have about a dozen Subaru's,but the newest one is a 2003...
Will anything 2003 or slightly older work? Or will i have to buy online?
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listen to this:
+1 it's fixable...but it's going to take some initiative, amazon priming "magic flood remover" to your doorstep is not going to work.
Get it some dry circulating air as quickly and as soon as possible.
Get everything you can out of the vehicle and get it opened up and airing out as soon as possible.
Put fans inside the car to move air on low humidity days.
Ideally you have it in a small garage with a dehumidifier running - not sure you can run a dehumidifier inside a vehicle, might get too hot.
Ideally you pull the seats and at least pull up most of the carpet around the edges to get airflow under it.
The seats are actually easy to pull - just a couple bolts and electrical connectors.
Check all your fuses in the engine bay and cabin fuse panel - take note which ones blew, if any, before replacing them. Write it down.
ECU is under the passengers front footwell carpet area. pull the carpet back and there's the ECU.
If it's fried they're a dime a dozen www.car-part.com
That's the starting point and it's not much work and essentially free.
Once you get it running:
Check rear diff for water - or just drain and refill.
Front diff shouldn't have any water in it, but given the complexity and cost of repairing those verses ease of changing fluid I'd change it as well.
Same with ATF.
You're going to hear gobs of comments about how atrocious flooded cars are and usually from people that have never owned/bought/repaired totaled/damaged vehicles with their own two hands. Don't let that deter you, it's just foreign territory for most people. And from what you've described and how little cost there is in trying - yours certainly sounds worth a shot.
Ok i got to get a better look at it today.
i checked the oil and air box for signs of water,because that is all i can do till i am able to push it elsewhere,which i have to wait till my apartments put us in a different unit.
There was no signs of water in the oil or airbox.
Is that a good sign?
What are the chances that no water got in the tranny?
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Sorry to hear about your troubles. Flooded cars are an electrical nightmare and sadly are not worth fixing. Sadly some unscrupulous people wash flooded car titles and sell them to unsuspecting people that have continuous problems afterwards.
i don't mind electric problems as long as i can drive it until i can afford replace it,because money is kinda tight right now.
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I'm in Houston,TX where all the flooding is happened and well my apartment and and car got flooded...
The complex is helping us with the getting into another place,but my car is screwed....
Because with all the stuff going on,and some stuff that happened before hand, i had not noticed that my car insurance had lapsed...
It was stupid to let it happen but what's done is done...
Now i need to look into trying to see if i can fix it.
I parked it on the highest ground i could,but it still wasn't enough...
The water got half way up the speakers on the door...
when i checked the car, i out of habit had hit the door lock button and nothing happened.
but i had not disconnected the battery...
How screwed is my car?
Is there any chance i can fix it??
Because i also really loved this car...
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I don't think over-filling your oil is going to cause a major problem. I'd be draining it, refilling to the correct level (which it sounds like you have already done), and start it up. You'll get white smoke as you burn the excess but it should still run and will clear up.
I certainly wouldn't be spending another $7k on another car - Subaru or otherwise - given your financial situation.
How long do you think it would take to burn off all the excess oil?
Take a deep breath and figure the current situation out. Either way - whether you drive the car or sell it, you're better off with it fixed. The smoke may well be the burning of excess oil. Or it could be bigger issues. Absolute worse case scenario is to put a used motor in from car-part.com and proceed.
As a rule, unless you are in a rush or get some crazy deal NEVER trade a car in. You will get far below market value as dealers ensure they wont lose money by reselling the car or sending it to auction and they plan for possible unknowns as well. It's not shady, it's good business, but they will offer thousands less than what it can be sold for privately.
Also - NEVER take out loans/make payments on cars. It's about the worst financial procedure to get into other than borrowing from the mafia. If you need to sell your 05 for $500 and buy a $500 1992 legacy with 200,000+ miles, do that and own the thing and start putting money in the bank to save for what you really want. But when buying a car and making payments you are usually paying over value on something that quickly decreases in value.
Try and get this one running right, baby it and put some $$$ in the bank so if anything does go wrong in the future, it wont put you in such a bind.
If the car is not fixable in your current situation, sell it via craigslist, ebay etc. there's decent demand for sporty RSs even in project states as lots of us wrench on them - they are easy. Make whatever the sale price is your budget for a new car and work your way up from there, but more debt can be a black hole to jump into. Usually best to swallow a bit of pride, put on our work boots and move forward. It nearly always pays off better over time.
One problem is i live in apartments so i really don't think they would be okay with my doing an engine swap in the parking lot lol.
I took the current loan on my car for 2 reasons,one is i needed a car quickly,because my last car(civic) had it's head gasket and water pump go out at the same time,and was told the engine was likely shot, i only had $750 and there was no driveable cars on craigslist at the time for under $750...
The other reason was i was hoping to use it to build my credit, because the only reason my credit is as bad as it is,is because of ER visits that i can't afford to pay...
How long do you think it will take to burn off the excess oil?
What could the bigger issue be?
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Ok I have my 2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS(Red in color) it has mostly been a great car,but it is having some problems due to a small stupid mistake i made...
Ok it is at about 161k miles i have had it since 138k,and i have had it for over a year and a half.
About 2 months had to pay $600+ to replace both rear wheel bearings and rear brake pads.
The center diff failed 6 months after i bought it,but i have a fuse in the fuse box that puts it into FWD mode,so i can drive it just fine till i replace the diff.
That was just the past problems...now on to the current,i made very stupid mistake,one morning i went to the store and my car went into limp mode...it had happened once before when it had gotten low on oil while waiting for a paycheck to do an oil change.
So i stopped at a gas station and put in 2 quarts of oil to last until payday to do an oil change....big mistake,i should have checked the dipstick,it was stupid,i was tired and didn't think.
So i way overfilled it it was running fine at first to the store(less than 2 miles from my house),then on the drive back it started smoking white out the exhaust.
I have parked it and have not driven it since unless it was for trying to fix it.
I did notice oil on the valve cover and down the the spark tube.
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I have already changed the oil and when i am off next i plan to clean the spark plugs and wires.
There are no signs of a head gasket failure,no overheating,and my coolant looks the same as the day i bought it.
If cleaning does not work i will be looking into replacing the valve cover gasket.
But i am worried that may not fix it because that tends to be my luck...
I am starting to consider trying to sell it or trade it in on another subaru...but one small problem i still owe $2000+ on the car...
I am looking at a local subaru dealership it has 2 i might be interested in,but they are like $7k and i don't know if my finance company would let me roll it over to another car,and even if the did i don't know if i could afford the payments on over $9000...(MABYE if the let me have a longer loan time instead of my current 36 months) because my interest rate is not good,i know it is over 20% do to my poor credit score of 585.....
What do you guys think i should do?
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When the AC system is out of refrigerant does the AC compressor still come on?
I am asking because my AC quit working a few months ago,and i first i thought it was just ran out of refrigerant,but i noticed that the compressor no longer turns on when i turn the AC on.
Is that normal? Or does it mean my compressor is bad since i don't hear it any more?
I am asking because i don't want to spend the money to try to refill it if it was not going to work.
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I texted him asking what it is doing and will post back what he says.
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I doubt that the car is driveable , Plan on replacing the automatic tranny. You would have to remove it anyway to access the front diff, which, by the way is not the same as the center diff. Also ask about the head gaskets on that motor before you buy or plan on doing a 1996 2.2 swap.
Then it's probably not worth it for me,because i have no way of towing it.
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I am asking because i was looking at craigslist out of boredom,and i can across a super cheap outback that says it needs a front diff.
Is that the same as the center diff? because i know my 05 impreza has a bad center and i have a fuse in the FWD spot on the engine bay fuse box to keep it from getting worse while i wait till i can find a replacement part.
Also if it is bad enough could it make the car undriveable? Even if i put in a fuse like on my impreza?
My hope is that if that is the case i could pick it up cheap and pop in a fuse and drive it home,and them fix it when i fix my impreza.
They are only asking $450 and it has been on their for 2 weeks.
It seems to be in good shape otherwise for it's age,but it does have a lot of miles at 266k miles.
Is it even worth it if i can get it at that price or a little cheaper?
if it helps here is a link to the ad. http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/5966341145.html
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I'll risk commenting a little but, I doubt anyone can tell you how long some part might last.
It's possible, fixing bad bearings early, could mean the hubs are still OK. at some point, the hubs will also be destroyed.
What do you think that replacing the wheel bearing+hub,and my center diff would?
So i know how much to save up to get everything fixed.
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if any of the noises are present at low speed, have someone pace the car on foot in a parking lot to try to pin down which side the sound might be coming from. You could also ride in the back while someone test drives the car to try to hear better.
has the rear differential had it's fluid checked? the drain plug has a magnet, should be less than 1/4 or so teaspoon of sludge on it - no 'chunks', rear brakes OK? even the little parking brake shoes? Rear wheel bearings need inspection, probably the exhaust as well.
wheel bearings are common fail;ures and 'might' present the problems you hear - or you may have 2 overlapping issues.
+1 to wheel bearing.
You can put the car on 4 jack stands, put it in gear and listen to the backside of each hub (as close to the bearing as possible) through a mechanics stethoscope. ($5-10 at Harbor Freight)
FAIR WARNING- This method requires that you will be under the car with the drivetrain in motion. Obvious hazards.
If you have a friend present, you could have them rotate the tires by hand as you listen. MUCH safer.
Even if it isn't the bearing, listen to the hubs, differentials and any other stationary surface associated with the drivetrain. When drivetrain is in motion the stethoscope will likely point you to the problem area, if you've got your ears on.
I don't have any access to jack stands right now, and all i currently have is the stock bottle jack,but i went out to my car and put my hand on top of the tire and tried to rock it back and forth.
The front wheels were rock solid,but both of the back wheels had noticable play... I also got under the back and grabbed the bumper and shaked the car side to side and saw no play in any of the suspension parts.
So i am guessing both wheel bearing's are bad...Right?
Also what do you think replacing both wheel bearing's and the center diff is going to cost to replace? because i need to know how much to save up.
Also how long do you think i could drive it in this shape? Because i am broke right now.
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Earlier last month i made a post trying to find out what a noise was you can read it here. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/161259-what-are-the-signs-of-a-bad-center-diff/?do=findComment&comment=1342541
Well i finally was able to put in a fuse in the FWD slot,and it fixed the Torque Bind for now,but there are other noises i have had for a while,i would like to find out all my problems so i can fix it all at once.
Ok what the noise is, while i am driving straight there is a noise like wind noise but loader from the rear of the car and it,when i turn right i hear what sounds like a tire rubbing(i checked there is not rubbing),and when turning left it sounds like lightly grinding brakes.
What could it be?
My car is a 2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS w/auto transmission.
Need advice on getting to the bottom starter bolt on my 2005 Impreza 2.5RS.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Sorry for such late replys but i have been busy with my day job.
I have been checking the starter and i also replaced the positive battery terminal connector,because it looked pretty bad.
I have noticed that when using the multimeter i would put the positive one on the positive battery terminal and the other on the starter solenoid bolt,and i get a reading of 19 on the second bolt,but the main one with a wire coming from the positive battery terminal,i get a reading of 0.
I am wondering if the the battery cable is bad or if it is the starter solenoid that is bad.
What do you think?
I picked up a 22mm socket,and tried,and while i didn't have much room due to hoses and stuff i got it to move like half an inch.