Nickjon

It ended up being the terminal connection to the fuel pump. Unfortunately Subaru does not sell pigtail connections, only the entire wiring harness, so I made a trip to the junk yard. I found a connection and the entire fuel pump assembly in nearly mint condition. The assembly is still shiny, clean, and looks basically brand new. Got them all for only $40. Had the shop wire up the pigtail terminal, plug it into the fuel pump assembly already installed in my car, and now it works great! And I have a basically new fuel pump assembly sitting in my garage just waiting if I ever need it. Thanks again for all your help!

Ok, well the car is at the shop. I gave up. But here is what happened. First of all in my ignorance I was checking the wrong wire to the pump which was throwing off my reading of the voltage. I wasn't checking the black red wire that was hot only when ignition was on. After I finally realized that I started checking the black/red wire and was getting about 12v for a 1/4 second. I wasn't sure if this was long enough but at the same time I wasn't getting my pump to turn on at all. So then I checked the circuit through from the connection under the seat all the way through to the pump for resistance. The circuit was good and showed only a minimal resistance. So I installed the pump assembly again and wouldn't you know it, as with the previous two times I installed the pump the car started right up. I drove around the block, parked it, turned it off, and tried again. Started right up. So I decided to try to drive it to the shop. About a 5 mile trip. Drove there like it had never had a problem in its life. Ran great! I gave it to them in defeat. Still not sure what is wrong. Last note, I checked all the wiring I could, all the fuses I could and finally decided to test if I was getting a voltage drop at the pump. I never successfully backprobed the terminal at the pump but at the connection under the rear seat I was getting less than 0.5v of voltage drop on both ground and hot wires while the car was running. And while the car was running I had over 13v of current running through that same connection. All that to say I assume it is some sort of wiring with the pump assembly or the terminal connection to the assembly. I currently have the OEM pump and wiring in the tank with a new filter bag on the pump and a new fuel pump relay installed. Other than that I haven't done any changes to the vehicle. Another blog I found mentioned this (see link below). I didn't see any O-Rings on the pump assembly in my car so I am assuming this is for a newer model but maybe one of you have any idea. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fuel-pump-fuel-pressure-regulator-214505.html We will see what the shop says. Thanks again for all your help.

Checked SBF-2 looks fine. Strong sturdy connection, no rust or corrosion. How do I test it with a multimeter? I tested the volts at the fuel pump terminal (unplugged) while starting the engine. They dropped drastically. I have two other hot wires at the pump too. Both read about 5v. One drops when the engine starts, the other maintains its volts. Unfortunately, the colors mentioned in the Haynes manual do not match the colors found on the wiring in my car. But I am following the hot wire (11.57v) backwards toward the relay. Found a connection under the rear seat. It looks a little blackened near the hot wire. Which seems to indicate it is overheating? But the connector piece itself is in good condition. I still notice no loose wires, cuts in the wire, or anything. At this connection my fuel pump wire is still 11.57v. This connection also has a thicker (smaller gauge) wire colored blue and yellow. This wire is reading 12v exactly. . (Both were tested with the connection unplugged) I will upload a pic later. I would like to test at the relay except it is nearly impossible to get to with a multimeter. Far up under the instrument panel. I have to unplug my entire fuse panel and remove it just to get to the relay. So once I am there it is useless to bring a multimeter up there. Especially since the relay is brand new. Would a main relay have anything to do with my fuel pump voltage problem? Last thought, My right rear tailight broke in an minor accident and then it rained and got a carwash. Water in the electrical. I think it is unrealated but maybe relevant with some crazy crazy thing. AND, maybe more relevant, occasionally, I mean VERY rarely, my entire instrument panel (including radio which has some lights already burnt out, but it is original) goes black at night with my headlights on. I turn off and on the headlights and the panel lights back up. Maybe another short somewhere but I haven't worried about it. Again maybe connected.

Here is the electrical schematic from my Haynes repair manual. Apparently there is a different colored wire that exits they relay from the wire that enters the terminal at the fuel pump. Blk/Red and Blu/Yel respectively. And the fuse is #16 saying it a 15A? I am going to go check SBF-2 Right now as well as test the volts at the terminal as I try to start it. We will see how it goes. I hope I can fix this. I love my little subaru and if I don't get it I am afraid my wife will make me get rid of it. YIKES!

Cougar, Props to you for your kindness in assisting community members here. Much appreciated you sharing your knowledge and insight. I just checked the fusible link (found only one in the main fuse box in engine compartment) Looks in tack, strong/sturdy connection on both sides, no corrosion or rust. I double checked both fuse boxes for anything related to the fuel pump. Pulled and examined quite a few fuses just to be safe. Saw nothing out of the ordinary. I will test the voltage while trying to start the car this afternoon. Thanks again!

Thanks Cougar. I will take a look at that. I am an electrical idiot so running a direct connection to the battery is even beyond my ability. But, I hope I can figure it out. If I do it would I leave the pump installed or remove the pump assembly?

Another thought, is there a specific fuse for the fuel pump? I couldn't find it. Obviously an ignorant newbie question. I looked in main fuse box and the alternate fuse box under the dash. Nothing was labeled for the fuel pump or anything similar as far as I could tell. I did however locate the fuel pump relay and replace it. Thanks Again!

Thanks Cougar. That is helpful info and a good direction to go. Only problem is I cant get the car started. It has started and run for more than 10 secs ONLY those couple times right after I replaced the fuel pump. Maybe it is a bad ground or connection that gets moved around while I am replacing the pump? How would I remedy bad power connection to the pump? Run new wires? How do I find out where the connection problem is? Battery connections are all clean.

Lucky Texan, I have checked the injectors and power going to them. I have not checked for leaks. I will look into that. Thanks.

It is a 1998 Legacy L 2.2 Fuel filter is new, I have cleaned all the lines and I don't have a clog anywhere. My battery is at about 12.6v. I have (in the process of trying the fix) charged the battery to full charge a couple times. I am reading the 11.57 volts with the key in (engine not running but power on) and the fuel pump disconnected at the terminal. I am reading the terminal coming from the fuel pump relay. When I read the volts the pump is not plugged in.

I have been banging my head on the wall about my fuel issue. In the last week I have twice replaced the fuel pump with two new ones and both times got the car to fire up and drive perfectly for about a mile. After that it choked and died. Then I went back and put the OEM pump back in and it did the same thing. It seems that it is only after replacing the pump that I get the car to start (and when I spray some starter fluid in the air intake). I am only getting about 5-10psi of fuel pressure at the rail which leads me to think either fuel pump or pressure regulator. I am leaning towards the pump/assembly. I just bought the whole pump assembly for about $300 because 1) every time I replace just the pump the car works so it makes me think it is something related to that piece, 2) my fuel gauge does not keep accurate reading & the sending unit was tested bad, 3) my low fuel warning light does not turn on (it is also wired through the sending assembly). I hope this is the right move. I ordered it online but haven't received or installed yet. Maybe you have suggestions? My one concerns is my voltage at the pump. I did already replace my relay with new OEM and am getting about 11.57 volts to the pump. Is that enough to fully power the pump and get full pressure? My pump turns on (audibly) and runs (fuel is moving to the motor). But, I have read that the volts need to be at 12v at the pump. Is 11.57v too low? Or sufficient? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!