tanner93loyale
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Posts posted by tanner93loyale
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I have a couple of them. I live in Sandy but work in Milwaukee.
Your a lifesaver if you can sell me one! How much?
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I have one in NW WA whats if worth to you?
Willing to ship?
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Where can I find one? Looked online and couldn't find much. Anyone have a spare they want to sell me haha? Hit a curb and bent it pretty bad and she's eating through tires like nothing. Wanna get it fixed asap!
Thanks!!
Tanner
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Struts i mean*
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What have you guys done to get stiffer suspension on your loyales? Im gonna be getting a tow hitch and some 6 bolt hubs so i can get a little bigger tires. Im not lifting it at the moment but i want to tow a little drift boat. Is there any heavier springs/shocks i can get so it doesnt bottom out my car haha? Thanks an advance!
-Tanner
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Not running poorly, runs great. Just has no power under throttle after it warms up.
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Hmmm... not much left if everything has been tried.
running poorly is possible from many things. how about:
Poor air flow
poor spark
poor compression
pcv clogged
Any CEL codes ?
Timing off
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Took my car back to my mechanic and he said that he thought the lack of power could have been an o2 sensor or a clogged cat but i changed both and its still doing it. Ive noticed its fine for the first few pulls in the morning when i first drive it , but as it warms up then it turns gutless... any ideas? I feel like ive tried everything and now its just starting to make me angry.
Thanks an advance.
-Tanner
93 loyale 4wd 5 speed
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Im in the process of fixing my car and was wondering if the two plugs in the back (geen to green and white to white) need to be plugged in. The white was is cel test and the green one is distributor timing test? If not what needs to happen. Have them unplugged or plugged in
93 loyale 4wd 5 speed.
-Tanner
Thanks
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Ah, that rings a bell. We had this code come up about 10 years ago and I remember now that it was hesitating pretty badly when you'd hit the throttle. Went on for a long time before the code came up. Don't know what the repair involved as I didn't work on cars at the time. It did fix the problem though and has never done it since.
Well either change the solenoid to another factory one or do the whole toyota thing. Idek where i can get another factory one unless i go to pick n pull
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Im having lack of power and cutouts and my cel came on. Read the code and it was 35. Pcv valve or something? What is this and how can i fix it lol. This car has been nothing but a pain
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Also, if the problem only started right after the work they did, wouldn't it be reasonable to ask them to give it a once-over?
Replaced the cap and rotor and still the same problem. It doensnt show on the tach and missing but its just so sluggish. I know these arent fast cars but it is alot more sluggish then it was before. I almost want to say it it distributor timing like its off but i dont know. I would take it back today but sadley its thanksgiving and they are closed for the next couple of days
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No codes. If timing was off wouldnt it run pretty rough usually? Its like only when floored . I was reading some other posts and somebody was having the same problem. Said he replaced his distributor cap and plug wires and made it perfect again.
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Took it to superior subaru and import they know what they are doing. The did timing belts and cam seals and oil pump seals and other stuff. They have done it hundreds of times. It runs great just boggs and kinda jumps when floored.
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Just dumped 800 dollars into my loyale to get my oil leaks and seals replaced and now it has a lack of power. No rough idle just a lack of power and hesitation when giving it gas. Almost cuts out and when i let off the gas its fine. Mostly does this when floored. Was wondering what the most common problems are? New plugs and wires? Distributor cap? Fuel pump and filter etc. Let me know your thoughts before i drive it off a cliff.
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Weird i posted a video i found that showed how to test the motor.
I jumped the motor and the window went up so the motor is good just somewhere electrical is cutting out somewhere i guess. Hopefully nothing to bad.
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Its not saying you posted anything just your name and a white screen
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By hooking up a negative and a positive wire to the battery to jump it. The motors only have 2 wires so depending on what way you jump them they will make the window go up or down.
Tried testing the window switch with my test light and the switch is fine. Still need to just the actual motor but i got a new motor from pick in pull and i hooked it up to the switch and it didnt work as well. So either both motors are bad or the wires that power the motor are fried?
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If the contacts in the switch on the door card are corroded that could be your problem. The window motor might be corroded too so it might work if you take it apart and clean it. The first thing i would try is jumping the window motor straight from the battery to see if that's your problem. If it works you could have a broken wire from the door opening and closing.
How do i test it with the battery?
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My passenger side window on my loyale wint roll up. Checked the fuses already and took the door panel off to see if anything was unplugged and i still cant get it to go. Any other ideas or do i need a new motor?
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Most new stereos use separate wi r es for each speaker. The old car wiring shares a common for the front and rear. You have to add wire or separate them. Don't tie the stereo output wires together. .risk of blowing up the output amps.
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Okay well that sucks, I really hate wiring haha is there any short way to explain how to do it.
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Ive just put in a new deck and it says that the left rear negative and the left front negative are the same wires, and so are the right rear and front negatives are both the same wire as well. The left front and back negative is blue and red and the right front and rear negative are blue and black. Does this mean i need to have 4 wires spliced together or is something wrong here lol? Right now only my front speakers are hooked up because i dont want to mess anything up trying to hook up the rear.
Any help is appreciated
Thanks
-Tanner
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Noticed a hefty oil puddle on the ground after letting my car sit. I also have the "lifter tick of death" so ive heard i need new oil pump seals. Can bad seals from the oil pump cause that bad of a leak? Also i am going to do oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets.
4wd 93 loyale rear drivers side trailing arm?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Need them asap!!!