Baslyn
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Posts posted by Baslyn
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Replace the wire. Sounds like you bent the internal clip or it's damaged, and it's not seating around the plug tip firmly or was crooked while you were trying to force it and bent, thus only touching tip of plug and falling off from engine movement, vibrations, etc. It should FIRMLY go around the plug tip, not just rest on it. Also, the wire that carries the electrical signal is basically folded under the crimping of the clip. If the wire is damaged, you won't get a signal.
Take car back to where you bought the wires, take wire in and explain it's "defective" and ask for a replacement. They should open a new box and give you one. This time, while installing, add a tiny amount of boot grease. Then, make SURE it's centered while attaching. You should never have to "force' it on. If it's crooked in the boot, it'll bend easily and never seat correctly. With the grease, it should just slip on and "click'.
After replacing, disconnect the (-) NEG battery terminal for roughly 30 seconds (seems to reset instantly but 30 seconds is a safer bet) then reconnect and make sure both battery terminals are tight less you want charging issues later on. Go drive car. Issue should be fixed.
If it somehow pulls off again, look at how you routed thew wire.
Just went back to advance and did that. Used dielectric greese.
Am I disconnecting the battery to clear code? If so my obd2 scanner can do that.
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Have you tried swapping the wire with #3 and seeing if the problem persists? That will eliminate the wire being the cause of the problem. It could be you caught a wire with a lose cap it in as well.
No I haven't. Just know that after I press it back in its nice and snug and takes a bit of force to pull it out.
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Denso wires and NGK Irridium plugs
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I have a 2000 Legacy L wagon that I just did a plug and wire change a month or two ago. Over the last month the #1 plug wire keeps popping off the plug. I've put my weight into putting it back on and know that there is no way that it's shaking lose. I pulled the plug yesterday to check for damage and found no damage to the plug. I'm getting a knock sensor obd2 code before the plug pops of and then a misfire code when it does come off. Any thoughts?
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The plug is snug. So I'm thinking that maybe the wire might be too loose. Idk
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I've made sure that it is seated properly. Pushed the thing till it was all the way in with no possibility of it going any further. But I'll check and make sure that the plug is snug when I get home.Make sure the spark plug is tight. If its loose compression can push the plug wire off.
At the top of the boot there's a cone shape that seals the boot to the plug well. Put some silicone or di-electric grease on there to help the cone slip into the plug well so the boot can slide in further.
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Also don't know if this is the same problem but for some reason the front passenger side plug wire keeps coming off the plug. Getting a knock sensor code when it comes off. Plug it back in, clear the code and it stays gone until it pops off again. I just changed all plugs and wires about a month ago.
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Yes the heater blows hot like no other car I've ever owned. Also have had no fluid loss. Checked tonight before leaving work. Doesn't look like any damage to new rad cap.
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Thinking same thing....the radiator is plugged up. Does the car's heater work really well...as in pumping out really hot air. If not, then it is possible that the previous owner dumped a bunch of radiator stop leak in the system. Result can be blocked radiator, and blocked heater rad unit.
Previous owner may have had a head gasket leak, so dumped something in the cooling system to see if that would help.
Things to think about.
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Well it's still an issue. Was driving on highway doing 75 mph with ac on and it took longer for it to happen but the temp went up to just before red. slowed down to about 60 and temp dropped. No bubbling sound with the new tstat in
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yeah, could be a non-oem style t'stat in there now, or a bad t'stat.
if you replace it, get OEM (or the oem Stant)
No it was definitely an OEM tstat.
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Ok just finished putting on a new Thermostat (from dealership), and Radiator cap (from dealership). Also while I had the car up changed the oil. I'm about to go on a drive and will post the results.
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But, Is the radiator full?
Another C-villian! We're multiplying on here...
Yes the radiator is full
If the cap is bad it wont draw coolant back int the radiator. It chouldnt be full, should be at the hot or cold line.
And it's in between the hot and cold lines in the reserve tank
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Three things to look at (for now we will skip the ever fearful headgasket)
1- Radiator cap
2-Thermostat
3- Cooling system leak
How is your coolant level?
Coolant level is full. Overflow tank is at the fill line mark.
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Hi, I have a 2000 Legacy L Station. I just bought it this past January. For some reason about a month ago as I was driving down the Highway doing about 75 mph up a mountain, I noticed that the Temp gauge started to climb and stop just before it got into the red zone. Turning the heater on brought the temp back down to normal. On the other side of the mountain I didn't have any problems with the temp gauge rising again. Until about a week ago.... Now when I'm running at any speeds past 65 the temp guage will climb. But the moment that I slow down to 65 or under then temp starts to go back to normal. Both fans do come on. And I have noticed that when I come to a stop sometimes that the car sounds/feels like it's bubbling but when I look into the overflow tank there are no bubbles coming out of the hose.
Spark plug wire being blown off plug?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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After comparing the two in the store seems like the metal bout inside wire was folded in upon itself.